FA - South Bend 11 x 42 lathe

I'm selling a good running 1933 South Bend 11" x 42" lathe at:

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Its located close to San Francisco and can be inspected under power.

Paul T.

Reply to
Paul T.
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These things are always too far away!

Not much available in my area (alabama). Except from dealers and it's usually worn out beyond reasonable repair or over priced or both.

Reply to
kaferhaus

I sang the same song for about 3 years. But then I found a very nice Clausing Colechester 15x60 38 miles from here for a *very* reasonable price. The secret was to go out and buy a new import machine. *Then* the deal on the other lathe showed up. It seems to be a rule.

Gary

Reply to
Gary Coffman

Hey Gary,

My Clausing-Colchester 15 X 60 takes a terrrrrrrible hit "WHAMMMM" in the headstock gearbox when starting at the higher speeds, and sounds like it might just self-destruct on starting up at the 2000RPM selection. (Mine is a CNC. Is yours also?) Makes me cringe every time I jog or M03/4. It has the (OEM) Anilam Crusader II, but spindle speeds are set with the manual levers in the headstock prior to motor start, the same as if it was a manual machine, and there is no actual motor control other than spindle ON/OFF with M03/04. Of course there is no CSS feature either. Have you done anything to decrease that banging of the headstock gears? I've considered a Soft-start or VFD, but not had the cash to try it.

And I think I got a good deal on mine too. It's a 1985 manufacture, without so much as a paint chip anywhere. Came from a college in Michigan. I don't think it was actually ever used. It was not in operating order when I got it, except the spindle would turn with the jog button, so I thought I could at least make it run "manually" somehow. Turned out (after a couple of months of evenings diagnosing it) that "they ???" had tinkered with the solid state cards in the control box and messed them up, but it appeared eventually that it wouldn't run properly due to some (original) cosmoline in a limit switch. I had to disconnect it and pick it up at the site, and I got it for US$ 1,000 in about 1999.

And another question.... I will be off-loading it (YAYYYYYYY!!!!) finally in the next week or so from the transport trailer at the new shop. The manuals are all packed in the trailer too. Any chance you can tell me what your's weighs? I think it was 4200 pounds, but I don't want to try to fool the lift-truck or crane or what-ever I end up doing to get it off the truck. I used a 20 Ton overhead crane to load it on the truck at the last shop, so I didn't really care or need to know what it weighed. My concern is at least in part that I don't want a fork-lift any bigger than necessary to sitting on my fairly new concrete driveway. I'll do what I have to, but prefer to protect it as much as possible.

Take care.

Brian Laws>>>These things are always too far away!

Reply to
Brian Lawson

It seems to me that R.C.M. ought to buy a new import lathe as a group and pass it around as a talisman of good-deal-finding. Once the current "owner" found the lathe deal of the century right in their back yard, they could send it along. We could start on a coast and one person could ship or deliver it to the next closest person (thereby minimizing shipping costs) until it reached the other coast.

Don't bother thanking me for this idea. It's the least I can do.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Grey

Then my luck should be changing soon.... I've had a 9x20 and a 7x14 for several years now... LOL

Steve Reeves KG4RLN

Reply to
kaferhaus

It sounds like the drive clutches in yours are not adjusted correctly, or that it works differently.

The way mine works, you start the motor (7.5 hp) when you begin work, and leave it running. You start and stop spindle rotation by engaging or disengaging the clutches (one for FWD, the other for REV) via a

3 position lever on the apron (FWD, neutral, REV). There's another lever on the headstock, but it is only 2 position, FWD or neutral. If you stomp the brake bar, the clutches are disengaged and the spindle brake is activated. Stops quick when the brake is properly adjusted.

If the clutches are adjusted too tight, it will "bang" when you engage the clutch lever smartly. When they are correctly adjusted, it smoothly comes up to speed (2000 RPM in 2 to 3 seconds with the 3 jaw on it).

Sounds like you did good. Mine is a 1978 model (serial 220XX). I paid less, but then mine is strictly a manual machine, and it has seen use in a hydraulics shop (paint is nearly all gone), though the wear is negligible (and no rust, Harold).

Mine is lighter than that. The manual says 2600 pounds. I suspect we have different machines. Mine is really a rebadged Colechester Triumph 2000 with some minor cosmetic changes.

Gary

Reply to
Gary Coffman

Hey Gary,

Thank you. Mine has no clutch, nor any apron controls, nor a foot brake. But it does have a full cabinet enclosure plus the CNC stuff, so it's probably somewhat heavier than that. I think the 4200 #'s is about right. And yes, it does look like a Triumph in the photos.

I've started unloading the trailer, and placing stuff on shelves in the new shop "tool crib". And amongst the stuff was a GE Programmable Starter that I got on a skid of stuff at an auction. I forgot I had that! I guess I'll give that a try and see if it helps. I'd hate to buy a new headstock gear-train!

Thanks aga>>>My Clausing-Colchester 15 X 60 takes a terrrrrrrible hit "WHAMMMM" in

Reply to
Brian Lawson

Try a 2 second ramp up, that's what the clutch is supposed to be adjusted to provide.

Gary

Reply to
Gary Coffman

Hey Gary,

OK. I'll give that 2 seconds ramp a try, but at the rate I'm progressing it won't be until 2004 sometime. I still have to get "3-phase" somehow, and no definite decision on how yet. I've got a freebie 20HP 220 on the way soon, in fact possibly 2 of them, so maybe a rotary convertor. I'll be back to you for input later, if you don't mind.

Thanks aga>>>I've started unloading the trailer, and placing stuff on shelves in

Reply to
Brian Lawson

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