fillet knife blade's geometry?

Del's trying to make a fillet knife from a full-hard power hacksaw
blade and me being a desert-rat, don't know nuthin' about fillet
knives and can't help.
The easiest way to go about this I believe is if there are common
factory-made fillet knives out there that have certain properties
you like, used as examples we could check out, so the descriptions
wouldn't be so difficult.
What do you think?
Got any ideas about fillet knives you'd like to share?
If you could take your favorite parts of a few different factory
fillet knives and put them together in one knife, what parts would
that be? :)
Are there any special edge-angle changes you make to your own
factory-made fillet knives?
Alvin in AZ
Reply to
alvinj
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Most fishermen I know here use one with a cord on it. The others use Rapala like this:
______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
Reply to
DanG
Fillet knives seem to be similar to flexible boning knives. I am not sure exactly what the best shape is. They need to be flexible so they can be held flat against the cutting board to remove the skin, relatively narrow (which mine isn't particularly) to turn the corner from cutting down to the backbone to cutting along the backbone, and able to cut rib bones or other bones and scales. And do all that for as many fish as possible before needing sharpening.
The buck fillet knife isn't bad.
I'll put some wood handles on what I got with epoxy or gorilla glue. If I need to work on the shape or thickness and they are in the way, then removal and redoing won't be a big chore. I even considered just wrapping with tape, prison style.
del
Reply to
Del Cecchi
15 degrees at the edge and thin enough to that point that the 15 is not a huge transition from body to edge. In other words if you are not carefullly holding 15 degrees your abrasives will scratch the rest of the blade.
Reply to
bamboo
Most of the ones in the stores, particularly the Rapala, are junk.
A filet knife should be thin, quite flexible, and made of steel that will take a keen edge, and retain it while cutting thru bones etc. The Rapala is made of soft stainless that won't even take a good edge, much less hold one.
A power hacksaw blade should be very good stock for making a filet knife.
FIskars makes a decent filet knife that isn't too pricey.
Anything by Wusthof Trident is excellent, pricey and worth it.
Reply to
Don Foreman
That isn't a concern. That stuff is so hard I can hardly shape it. And a few scratches don't bother me. I am more interested in shaping, etc.
Reply to
Del Cecchi
That's exactly the sort of insight/opinion we're looking for! :)
Anyone else got an opinion? :)
Alvin in AZ
Reply to
alvinj
Hi Alvin, I'm wondering if a full hard power hacksaw blade might be a bit too stiff to make a good fillet knife, I had my best results using the spring steel body material of a bi-metal bandsaw blade,, (the part you have left after grinding the high speed steel teeth off) The 1 1/2 X .042 blades seemed to work the best for me for full size fillet knives and the 1 1/4 X .035 blades worked real good for making specialty blades for removing the Y bones from nothern pike and muskies.
Bear in MN
Reply to
bearsbugs
I'll second that, I had a couple of power hacksaw blades once apon a time :-) After several hours and burnt fingers plus a worn out grinding wheel, I didn't have much to show for it. I would go for the spring steel. Here is a page from a local knife firm and their fillet knives
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Reply to
James P Crombie
Most fillet knives are too bendy in my opinion. The fillet knife I was most impressed with ever was lost. It was made from a blank by Bob Engnath and the reason I liked it so much was because it was about 50% stiffer than any other. Bob made it that way without any prompting on my part but when I queried him on it he surprised me by making a passionate statement about how fillet knives were too floppy and therefore lacked control. The spine was a full 1/8 inch thick near the handle, flat ground with a full length distal taper all the way to the point so the flexibility changed depending on if you were working near the tip or the handle. If you were working on a small delicate fish you could take advantage of the flexibility at the tip and if the fish was bigger you could use the blade closer to the hilt and take advantage of the extra stiffness. This way you had a range to work with. I gave it a rolled edge. I don't think fishermen care if the blade is scratched. Also the average fillet knife is about 3 inches too short Daithi
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