Help finding odd screws

We live in a house from the 20s and I am rehabbing a built-in "dresser". I found the original nickel drawer pulls in a box in the basement. They look great and they match the rest of the nickel hardware in the room, but unfortunately most of the screws are missing. The screws look just like modern 1-inch drawer-pull screws (machine screws) but instead of an 8-32 thread they are 8-24. I can't re-tap the holes in the pulls as 8-32 because they are too shallow and I'm sure they won't hold. (My 8-32 tap has "starter threads" for the first 1/4 inch so it just won't work.)

So right now I am stuck. I'd really love to restore the original hardware, but I have no way to attach them securely. Does anybody have any suggestions about where I might be able to find replacement screws? I need

16 of them. Or maybe somebody can think of another way to securely attach the pulls? I have called and emailed a number of antique hardware sites, but nobody seems to know what I am talking about. Modern hardware stores (etc.) carry 8-32 and (rarely) 8-36 but not 8-24. I might even be willing to pay to have custom screws made, if I could find somebody that would do it.

-- Eric Pearson, Huntington Woods, Michigan

P.S. If this is not the right newsgroup, can somebody suggest a better one?

Reply to
Eric Pearson
Loading thread data ...

I take it the existing 8-24 threads are pretty shallow, and the holes are blind into the stock.

One option would be to obtain some partially threaded

8-32 screws, cut them off to the length you need, and run an 8-24 die over them.

Another option would be to drill the holes in the pulls all the way through, and simply through tap them for

10-32. The end of the fastener could be set up to be just flush with the surface of the pull so it would not be *too* obvious.

Finally you could purchase a 10-32 bottoming tap, drill the existing threads up to the tap drill size (maybe a little smaller if the section is thin) and then bottom tap them for 10-32.

If you tap 8-32 into an 8-24 existing hole, it will be a fairly weak job when you are done because of the threads crossing the threads inside the hole. I would go one size up as stated.


================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ==================================================

Reply to
jim rozen

You could buy a bottoming tap, which is made to thread to the bottom of a blind hole and doesn't have the tapered "starter threads," but I don't think you would get very strong threads in a hole that's already been tapped. I would suggest drilling out the existing holes and installing 8-32 helical thread inserts (Helicoil is the best known brand name.) Try doing a Froogle search for "8-32 thread repair kit."

Reply to
Steve Dunbar

What is the chance that they are metric? Say, 4mm X 1.0mm?

Reply to
Gene Kearns

Sounds like 3/16" Whitworth to me.

Cheers Tim

Tim Leech Dutton Dry-Dock

Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs

Reply to

It is possible to turn these on a metal lathe but it doesn't sound to me like you own one. What you can do that hasn't been considered yet is to drill out the entire threaded hole, then to fill it with epoxy like JB Weld, then drill and tap the epoxy as if it were metal. You will still need a bottoming tap, but if you get desperate you can just grind off the bottom 1/8" or so of your existing tapered tap and that will make it into a bottoming tap.

Are you *sure* you can't find an 8-24 tap? MSC has one in their catalog, their item 74817255, but they don't have one in stock and they want a breathtaking $26.82 for it. See

formatting link
You *are* on precisely the correct Web page.

Grant Erw> We live in a house from the 20s and I am rehabbing a built-in "dresser". I

Reply to
Grant Erwin

Crown City Hardware, here in California is the creme de la creme source for old hardware, repros etc etc. Ive been in there..and its awesome.

formatting link
Call or email them your needs and they will indeed have 8-24 screws in just about any length, style, head, material that you can imagine.

They have buyers that travel all over the world looking for orginal NOS etc and are the biggest players in the old house/old furniture restoration biz


"By calling attention to 'a well regulated militia', the 'security' of the nation, and the right of each citizen 'to keep and bear arms', our founding fathers recognized the essentially civilian nature of our economy. Although it is extremely unlikely that the fears of governmental tyranny which gave rise to the Second Amendment will ever be a major danger to our nation, the Amendment still remains an important declaration of our basic civilian-military relationships, in which every citizen must be ready to participate in the defense of his country. For that reason, I believe the Second Amendment will always be important." -- Senator John F. Kennedy, (D) 1960

Reply to

You may be able to find the 8-24 screws. If not, re-tap.

6-32 is a tough size to tap, as the combination ofsmall diameter and coarse threads leads to a lot of broken taps. 8-24 would, I think, not be much better.

Why not re-tap to 10-24? It's a standard size. You can get sets of three taps

- taper, plug and bottoming - real cheap. In brass, you might even get away with tapping the existing threads without drilling a larger hole. Finish with the bottoming tap to cut to the bottom of the hole. 10-24 machine screws are available everywhere.

John Martin

Reply to

Just a thought - long reach pop rivets?

Reply to
Ken Davey

No home should be without a set of Lee Valley catalogues. Their 'hardware' one is most impressive. Overall they are regarded as 'fist' books in my neck of the woods.

formatting link
this will not answer the OP's quest. Regards. Ken.

Reply to
Ken Davey

Get some long bolts that will fit in the hole and cut the heads off... Stick that cut off end in the door pull with JB-weld in the hole... Wait a few days and put them on your units with nuts on the back-side...

Reply to
Kevin Beitz

Grant Erwin

He's got the tapped holes. He needs the 8-24 *die* for making some screws???

Frank Morrison

Reply to

In the past, I have used an epoxy-type produce, made by Permatex, I think, which can be used to restore stripped threads. You spray the male thread with a release agent, and then smear on the plastic. Then you insert the screw in the hold and let it cure. Then simply unscrew the thread from the now plastic threads. It is not recommended for applications with high stress or vibration, but I am sure it would work fine on drawer pulls.

You could either drill out the old 24 pitch threads, or force assemble with the 8-32, using the resin for reinforcement. I would be inclined to partially drill it out, leaving enough of the 24-pitch thread to help the bond, while still permitting a cross-threaded assembly without too much hassle.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I like this idea . Simple . Is drilling and tapping them a risk if something goes wrong ? Finding the right die also sounds better to me then tapping . Epoxy in some studs and put acorn nuts on the back would be my first choice though . Luck Ken Cutt

Reply to
Ken Cutt

Or maybe 10-24? Unless 8-24 is specific to older furniture, it is not a listed size in any screw charts I have.

Reply to
Brian Lawson

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.