How to paint a steel trailer

"Paul" wrote

Seems to me that a pickup is about $450-600. Right? I've seen pics of Iggy's trailer, and it doesn't look any bigger than a longbed pickup box.

Iggy, I'd get another quote.

Steve

I did my pickup bed for $460 or so. So you may have gotten a better deal, but close. The $900 quote was for the trailer bed, inside and over the top. Now, if you can suggest a cheaper place, not too far from Chicago, I am all ears.

It is about as big as a long bed box (a little longer, at 110" long). I agree, I need another quote. If I could put bedliner on the bed as well as around the sides, for say $500, I would do it.

To help reduce the amount of time you spend physically removing the rust, just get rid of the loose stuff with the wire wheel then spray the hell out of it with something like picklex-20 or prep-step. Once those have dried you are now all set to paint.

I'm guessing that the zinc paint is like the others that I've seen that use an epoxy base to adhere the zinc, so it should be fairly tough. You can paint over that stuff too.

I did a home job bedliner in my old truck, just reduced with the appropriate thinner and sprayed it. Hardest part was prepping the bed, the spraying too almost no time at all.

I would vote for removing the camo and matching your truck, most auto body stores will get a pretty good color match made up for you.

Thanks. About a month ago, I wirebrushed and painted with that zinc paint, an area in the bed about 12x15". I will soon experiment to see how well it adheres and what happens to it after several rains that we had.

The "zinc cold galvanizing paint", actually, is a decent color match for my pickup.

If the bedliner would stick to the paint, I think that I would like to paint with zinc paint to prevent corrosion, and spray bedliner on top of that.

On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 10:50:10 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus322 quickly quoth:

Use what this kid used, Ig. A lady friend of mine sent this to me via email this morning. Talk about timely...

--snip-- YOU GOTTA LOVE OLD MEN

I was at the mall the other day eating at the food court.

I noticed an old man watching a teenager sitting next to him. The teenager had spiked hair in all different colors: green, red, orange and blue.

The old man kept staring at him. The teenager would look and find the old man staring every time. When the teenager had enough, he sarcastically asked, "What's the matter old man, never done anything wild in your life?"

The old man did not bat an eye in his response, "Got drunk once and had sex with a peacock. I was just wondering if you were my son."

--snip--

Peacocks are kinda camo, aren't they?

Iggy

I sent a reply off list to your email but not sure if it went through, did you get it?

Paul

Paul, sorry, I did not get your messages, my email addresses are ichudov AT algebra DOT com and ichudov At yahoo DOT com.

igor

On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:33:34 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth:

I'd much rather have a 24oz waffled HF framing hammah ($3 on sale) than an Estwing. Of course, I use screws 95% of the time, but when I do need a hammer, that one fits me just perfectly.

I have a drop-in bed liner and MUCH prefer that style to a spray-in. My LoadHandler works just peachy with it, too.

Amen to that, bruddah.

Waffled hammers aren't worth having. You have to constantly guard them from ID ten Tee's that want to use them with chiseles and such.

DAMHIKT.

Wes

Should hold up great as long as the surface prep was sufficient. A good brush down would do it. Zinc paints pretty good stuff since its epoxy based, and the zinc should act like hot dip (self healing).

I used the herculiner brand, and it seemed to stick to just about anything. My only concern would be if the solvent in the mix would interact with the epoxy poorly. Herculiner uses Xylene (and to spray you'll be cutting it with more xylene), which is a good solvent for many epoxies.

Should just loosen up the top layer to help it stick.

I tried, today, to scratch that paint with a hardwood stick. It could not be scratched.

OK. Thanks Marc.

I do not know... I just hope to find some color that would not make dirt too visible.

I have found that zinc rich (93%) paint to be quite soft, and it scratches easily. Seems to work - I have some brackets I made several years ago and after 5 years outside, there is no rust with 2 coats of zinc paint on them. I suggest 2 coats of zinc paint, etc prime and 2 coats of enamel, and make sure you get into all the corners and crevices. Geoff

Greetings and Salutations....

Well, in that case I would suggest a mustard color, or a metallic brown. Black or white will show the dirt VERY well. Yellow would be ok, too, but, might be too bright. The metallic brown that Ford used on my F-350 is great for hiding the dirt. Regards Dave Mundt

The color depends on the place of work!

Around here - white clay, red - brick red clay, brown dirt, black dirt...

Best look at the dirt and determine what colors are there!

Martin

Mart> Greetings and Salutations....

Ive got a can of indigo Tartan Plaid I was thinking of painting my trailer......

Gunner

"I don't want to abolish government. I simply want to reduce it to the size where I can drag it into the bathroom and drown it in the bathtub.

-- Grover Norquist

Gosh - have a spare can of that Tartan Plaid color ?! Has to be easy to apply - wonder if other colors exist.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.

Gunner wrote:

yup..you simply use a roller. Ive seen hot pink and fusia.

Gunner