Just a Stupid Box

I've got a decent hydraulic port-a-power type kit. Rams, extensions, hand pump, etc. It works, but I keep it in the box most of the time. I don't need it often. The problem is the large plastic box is falling apart.

Is my only alternative going to be to take the time to manufacture my own crate for it?

I actually have two and the plastic box is the same for both. Moving one yesterday the molded handle came right off.

Bob La Londe

-------------------------------- The HF Apache cases cost more that I'd pay unless I was taking it to job sites. Will it fit a milk crate or 5 gallon bucket?

A lot of my small power tools are in a case from something else, chopped out or heat-softened to take them.

I've got a decent hydraulic port-a-power type kit. Rams, extensions, hand pump, etc. It works, but I keep it in the box most of the time. I don't need it often. The problem is the large plastic box is falling apart.

--------------------------------------- The couplers are available to disconnect the hose from the pump for more compact storage, or to make a pressure gauge tee adapter to measure force.

I've used my porta power setup in the field, although since I am no longer a contractor that is no longer likely.

A bucket or crate still isn't really a good answer for me. While coolant an oil buckets (of which I have plenty) are a lot better plastic than hardware store buckets they aren't my favorite way to store anything except consumables and waste. I used to use the bucket bags contracting (probably still have a couple), but I wound up liking more purpose built tool carriers better.

I was hoping for an elegant solution like, "(name brand tool company) sells replacement metal cases for their port a power kits, and they have space for a few extra tools."

Looks like making corner reinforcements and a wood crate using steel banding like an old pirate chest is probably the closest I will get to what I want.

I was hoping for an elegant solution like, "(name brand tool company) sells replacement metal cases for their port a power kits, and they have space for a few extra tools."

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That's not a bad answer. Blackhawk claims they are a better quality tool (and priced like it). Maybe their plastic has real permanent pthalate plasticizers in it.

That case might be small - it's for the 4-ton Blackhawk B65114. A 120MM ammo can would be big enough, but looks like it only opens on the end, which could be inconvenient. Also see 'Plano Sportsman Trunk with Wheels'. If one of your two kits still has an ok box, maybe you could combine parts you frequently need into that, and put other parts into a smaller MTM-brand box. Or maybe get a pickup-bed tool box at a pawn shop.

Looks like I am back to square one. I ordered it shortly after seeing your post, and then a couple days later I asked for tracking or how long it would take them to ship. Next day I asked again. The next day I got a notice my payment had been refunded. They probably don't have any and have no way to get any. Never received a direct response.

A long time ago I had a metal "rocket box" that would probably be pretty close to a good fit for it. Things would have to be in layers, but rubbing would be a big deal since it doesn't go out in the field often. I had it as a kid. I'm not sure where it came from or where it went. I started looking for surplus rocket boxes and found one listed on eBay for more than the cost of a new portapower kit. I guess milsurp boxes except for the small 50cal, 30cal, and 20mm carry boxes are out priced these days.

Looks like I am back to square one. I ordered it shortly after seeing your post, and then a couple days later I asked for tracking or how long it would take them to ship. Next day I asked again. The next day I got a notice my payment had been refunded. They probably don't have any and have no way to get any. Never received a direct response.

A long time ago I had a metal "rocket box" that would probably be pretty close to a good fit for it. Things would have to be in layers, but rubbing would be a big deal since it doesn't go out in the field often. I had it as a kid. I'm not sure where it came from or where it went. I started looking for surplus rocket boxes and found one listed on eBay for more than the cost of a new portapower kit. I guess milsurp boxes except for the small 50cal, 30cal, and 20mm carry boxes are out priced these days. Bob La Londe

-------------------------------------- I might have suggested wooden ammo boxes except that I haven't seen any lately. Their construction is simple and durable. The HF store didn't have any good deals when I looked yesterday. Shipping crates for custom machinery were made from plywood framed with 1x3s, flush with the ply on the outside. The edges screw together easily and the lid can be hinged, and rest on strips below the top edges for more stiffness. Rope in holes through wood cleats makes acceptable handles. Perforated angle can reinforce the corners.

I also make boxes, electronics enclosures, from sheet metal though it's difficult without a shear and bending brake and ideally a corner notcher. Metal salvaged from the trim on a defunct above ground pool is about the upper limit of workable with hand tools, auto body hammer and anvil. The wall is thinner and bendable by hand.

I do have a 48" Tennsmith box & pan finger brake. I've also got a small vise brake. I've been wanting to make a press brake, but I just haven't gotten a roundtuit. I don't have a stomp shear, but I have managed to get by with a nibbler, hand shears, and an angle grinder. I need new cutting dies from my power nibbler. I do have an electric shear (3 blade style) but I have not used it.

I made a stainless surround for our kitchen stove a few years back and my wife has been asking me to make a couple more to go between our cabinets and countertops.

On 9/5/2025 12:47 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote: ...

I do have a 48" Tennsmith box & pan finger brake. I've also got a small vise brake. I've been wanting to make a press brake, but I just haven't gotten a roundtuit. I don't have a stomp shear, but I have managed to get by with a nibbler, hand shears, and an angle grinder. I need new cutting dies from my power nibbler. I do have an electric shear (3 blade style) but I have not used it.

I made a stainless surround for our kitchen stove a few years back and my wife has been asking me to make a couple more to go between our cabinets and countertops. Bob La Londe

-------------------------- I chose the 30" combo shear/brake/roll mainly because it occupies little space. It's a difficult machine to set up and use. I'd had a 24" Taiwanese "Triok" combo and a separate finger brake and shear in the company shop and liked them better except for the space they occupy. A press brake really needs the back gauge and an edge on the work to rest on it, a pencil or scribed line is difficult to align and then hold accurately while pulling the handle. That becomes a problem when making multiple bends inward from an edge.

An advantage of the press brake is that reversing the upper dies lets it bend a radius with a rod under the flat ends of the dies. I fitted a rust patch into a rounded corner under the car that way. A shallow initial bend kept the rod in place.

My Enco version of the 8" scissors-type bench shear works well enough to justify the little storage space it occupies. The curved moving blade bends and twists the cutoff though not too much to hammer flat (enough). It would go well with rough torch or saber saw cutting slightly oversized.

My 3 blade air shear is really fast, I used it to cut the damaged pool wall into manageable sections. The cut was freehand and I didn't try for accuracy.

The nibbler with a round punch makes nasty sharp half moon shaped slivers.