Curious why you specify a Dialarc HF rather than, say, a Synchrowave.
I had one guy tell me he'd once worked in a welding shop where the
boss replaced the Dialarcs with Synchrowaves, and the welders didn't
like the new welders. Said one of the welders could routinly make
leak-free aluminum tanks with the Dialarc HF but not with the
Synchrowave. I figured maybe they just didn't know how to use the
Synchrowave, but I've never used one myself so that's just a guess.
I have a Dialarc HF and am happy with it. The Synchrowave and some
others may retain a stable arc at lower currents than the Dialarc
does, but I don't have any trouble at all welding 1/16" aluminum
with the Dialarc.
I have had one of each. Both are good machines.
The Dialarc is a good DC machine, for steel and stainless they are fine.
AC is OK.
The Syncrowave does a better job at low currents and the square wave AC
is much better for aluminum work.
One of the things I really like about the Syncrowave is the
thermostatically controlled fan, the Dialarc fan was on all the time and
was pretty loud. With the Syncrowave, the fan only comes on after some
fairly heavy work and it's a lot quieter. It's a funny thing to comment
about something that trivial, but after spending a full day welding it
makes a difference.
Appreciate your comments Bob.
As you probably know, the fan would be extremely easy to control by just
setting a bi-metallic thermostat on top of the transformer with some thermal
grease and one wire of the fan connected in series with the thermostat.
Normally, open, of course.
Can one not weld aluminum easily with the Dialarc h.f.?
I routinely weld aluminum down to .050" with my Dialarc HF, have
done .030 aluminum with it. Other machines would probably be better
if you plan to do very thin aluminum, but .050 and above are easy
with the Dialarc. I've also repaired broken aluminum castings,
like a pressure washer manifold and a trolling motor mounting clamp.
I'm just an amateur, but my welds look OK and they seem to hold up in
I am absolutely thrilled to see this thread. I just bought a Dialarc HF on ebay
(#7590655192) and this is my second day playing with it. I did have to drive a
couple of hours to get it.
I have never even seen tig welding done before, and I am making passable fillet
welds without filler.
Of course, yesterday was a different story. I forgot to turn the coolant on
after a break and cooked the hoses to the torch. Now I'm glad I didn't cheap out
with a Chinese machine, as the local Miller dealer had the parts on the shelf.
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA
hobby pages are here:
Severe stupidity is self correcting, but mild stupidity is rampant in the land.
I see that your machine came with pure tungsten and 2% Th tungstens.
If you're doing aluminum, I heartily recommend lanthanated tungstens.
They made a big difference for me.
I went with the 2% La (blue). I read somewhere that the 1.5%
formulation exists because it runs most like 2% thoriated so folks
won't have to re-calibrate their automated processes. Hell, I
re-calibrate my "process" everytime I pick up the torch, so I went
with 2% figuring more is better.
They do work well for me. They retain their shape much better than
pure tungsten does using AC on aluminum, so the arc stays stable.
I am absolutely deflated to see that you got it and I didn't. It was too
far for me to drive and the freight companies must be owned by Trump.
Anyway, congratulations. I am excited for you and am glad to see that you
are having good success with it. Maybe, I will, too, if I find one.
I will second what Don has said about the Dialarc, you absolutely can
weld aluminum with it. It's what I learned to weld aluminum with.
Still, the square wave provided by the Syncrowave does a better job
cleaning the weld area and I get better tungsten life with it.
As for adding a thermostat, it never occurred to me until after I got
the Syncrowave how nice it was.
know> Appreciate your comments Bob.
Ron..do yourself a favor..and either plug the collant into the welder
(most have a utility 110vt outlet, or install a 110vt transformer and
a plug across the contactor output) so when the welder comes on..so
does the coolant.
It solves a LOT of these kinds of problems.
Btw...you can use steel coathangers angers for filler .
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3