More on Electrolytic Rust Removal

Excellent page. Excellent site!!

What the web is all about -- or should have been, at least.

Your section Problem Solving, Influence management, etc was inneresting, helpful, altho I don't know that Eric Berne's Games People Play will be much help. Dat goddamm book was written in some kind of effing code. Couldn't unnerstand a *word*, yo.

I'm relieved, tho, that you didn't cite Dr. Wayne Dyer (Your Erroneous Zones) or his Tao-Dao-Schmao bullsnot for anything. goodgawd..... Or Tony Robbins, or any of those other hustlers.

The cite Winning Through Intimidation is ackshooly perty insightful, as it turns out that almost everything distills down to the crassest eff-you real estate deal, albeit perhaps with varying degrees of philanthropic do-good window dressing. Human effing nature, it appears.

Mother Teresa, ultimately, was a hard-nosed bidniss-woman. Otherwise, you'da never heard of her!! PR, donchaknow.... proly had a full-time staff.

Good show, tho, on yer site.

Oh yeah, Dude, clean up yer shop! :)

I thought is WAS clean!

Pete Stanaitis

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Proctologically Violated©® wrote:

Do NOT use stainless steel electrodes - you'll get a yellow or orange tinge to the electrolyte indicating the presence of hexavalen Chromium which made Erin brockovich famous. /mark

Pete Lots of good information there. I will be sending links to friends and family.

thanks for sharing.

Rex

spaco wrote:

a good way of rust removal, thought Id comment that I do it another way as I dont have constant leccy off the grid.. To run a charger. My interest is is in rust removal from wrought iron, ie iron that been made by the reduction process the way metallic iron was made from iron ore before the bessemer process was invented in 1866/7. I collect old iron implements made from wrought iron and to remove the rust, i first heat to a dull red heat to crack off the heavy scale, then i use a plastic bucket or suitably sized container to hold the iron object, then i fill the container to cover the iron with old battery acid. This i get from our local scrap yard by the 5 gallon full for free. so it works by itself. Obviously you need to use common sense handling this stuff, Its not dangerous from the odd drop if you wash off right away, tho if you get splashes on your jeans ,next time you wash them youll get holes where the splashes were. On wrought iron it eats off the rust and some of the iron so when you remove it from the acid, neutralise with wash up liquid in water, wire brush aand dry off you will see the original grain structure of the wrought work. It looks some times like the grain in wood and when oiled up or waxed is very beautiful to look at. i aquired a 90lb silversmiths T stake made about 1800 from wrought iron with crucible steel fire welded to the top face and its nice enough as an ornament in my sitting room, even tho its a really useful part of my silversmiths workshop. I use battery acid in large amounts anyway to pickle all my silver and other non ferrous brazed work. There is a much more powerful pickle called bright dip. its

if you waqnt to go down this route you need to do a lot of research on methodology fume cupboards protective face and clothing etc.

have fun ted dorset UK.

Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

If you want to make new steel look like it has been rusting for a long time with deep pits, reverse the polarity and stew it for half a day or so.

I was experimenting to remove plating on a scrap piece and left it in like for derusting. It works much faster than derusting.

This might be useful for getting an old corroded look in a hurry.

It really makes a horrible mess too.

Cool looking stuff, but the shipping cost adds more than 50% additional. Wish there was a distributor near me.

One claim on the company web site that I especially liked was: "EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life and can be used over and over until it absolutely stops working." So, it works until it won't work anymore - hmmm. Methinks they need a better copy writer.

Joe

I just found out that our local HF store carries it - 20 bucks a gallon (plus whatever it takes to keep Gov. Mark Sanford happy, now that his wealthy wife has moved out).

Thanks for the heads-up, Rex

Joe

Very well done! Bravo Sir!

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do something damned nasty to all three of them.

Let's see: $20/gal + shipping or $4/gal for muriatic acid, available everywhere. Can it be that much better? Muriatic acid takes off the rust, what more do you want?

Bob

Well, it gets pretty nasty-looking after it's removed a lot of rust. I've never kept any until it absolutely QUIT working.

Joe wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

It's also available at AutoZone stores, which are all over the place. It's more expensive, but available in smaller amounts: 32 oz. for 9 bucks.

Doug White