Name That Tool

whit3rd wrote:


I solved the problem by waiting until the soil had dried enough to be self supporting. A few scoops more and I had sufficient depth. It is still wet mud however.
The Sonotube will save on cement once the hole is at depth. I pay only 3 bucks and change for a 50 lb sack so I'm not averse to throwing 2 or 2-1/2 sacks per post.
First post is in, aligned straight and level. Now to wait for the mud to cure the cement! I think I can do that. :)
--Winston
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I think it's called an assistant fencing trainee.
I'm thinking that you would likely need to fabricate something like long tongs with sharp opposed points (like block ice tongs), or a spoon on one side and point on the other, but with a slip-joint that adjusts quickly (like ChanLlock pliers) to accomodate the different shapes/sizes with a secure biting grip.
Brazed carbide tips in a very large dental-type tool. The tongs sections could possibly be square tubing, with some heavier gage metal near the jaws and joint.
I can't remember seeing anything specifically made for retrieving something like irregularly-sized rocks down in a hole, but I vaguely recall something that had a lever at one end to close jaws at the other end.
There is a tool shaped like a hoe, but it has a smaller, spoon-shaped end, and the idea is to get the spoon end past the object to be extracted from a hole, then lift it out. This tool probably works well in fairly large diameter holes though.
--
WB
.........


"Winston" < snipped-for-privacy@BigBrother.net> wrote in message
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_48125_48125
I turn the chain grab hook sideways and hook the lever hoist into the D ring, to protect the hoist chain. http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/Firewood#5287788505171720306 That shows the tripod and hoist, not the tongs which I bought later. The points aren't sharp so concrete shouldn't damage them much. I have to pound them into a log with an axe.
jsw
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On Thu, 30 Dec 2010 04:42:15 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins

What thickness pipe is that and how do you secure the top end?
What's the load capacity of the tripod?
RWL
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On Jan 1, 4:09pm, GeoLane at PTD dot NET <GeoLane at PTD dot NET> wrote:

The pipe is 8' x 2-3/8" chain link fence posts, for lightness. A 100 Lb, 2" water pipe tripod was too difficult to carry and set up on rough ground, though fine around the yard.
Here is the top connection: http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/Firewood#5557353233283600002
I wrote a paragraph explaining the engineering, then reconsidered and deleted it. Good luck, you're on your own if you get hurt.
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Wild_Bill wrote:

Heh!
So I could weld inline blades to the jaws of a large pair of channel - lock pliers for instance. Maybe slice some 2" sch. 40 black pipe diagonally to form the blades.

Yeah, say 1" square tube for starters. I could clamp the handles to the grips and weld them in place.

That'd work if the top lever had a significant mechanical advantage over the jaws. Maybe an Acme thread down the middle with a speed wrench on the end of the handle?

I really want to grasp the rubble from the top and waggle it free of the sticky adobe.
Thanks for your thoughts on this.
--Winston
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wrote:

I grok that in its entirety.

Why not continue to use a regular post hole digger?

That would be the rare and wondrous Concrete Magnet, of course.
-- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus
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Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)
The blades are too large. Most often the blades hang up on the interior of the hole, blocking access to the chunk. Even if I can surround the chunk with the blades, the chunk falls out the bottom at earliest opportunity. I'm looking for a better 'size match' to the load.
(...)

Difficult to adjust damping factor.
Sometimes small boulders shoot out of the hole damaging cottages in the neighborhood.
They also eat "D" cells like you wouldn't believe.
--Winston :)
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wrote:

$5 garage sale PHDs, Cut and grind safe to size, knock down the handles for lighter weight, Roberta's yer auntie.
Fold one lip up half an inch @ 60 degrees? and cut a bit off the other side. That'll give you a leverage point for the adobegoo wrestling. Or just roll your own with 5/8" square tubing and some 1/8" CRS. I may do that myself, during the winter downtime.

What? You don't have a Null Shield on it yet? Silly person.

That they do. I'd get a Zephyr replacement battery if I were you.
(Vague "Knight and Day" reference. Wunnerful movie; must see!)
NOTE: From now on, I'm going to ask PHD braggarts if they dig many holes with 'em. When they give me the weird look, I'll innocently say "Oh, when you mentioned PHD, you weren't referring to a Post Hole Digger?"
LJ--not a Piled Higher and Deeper owner.
-- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus
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Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)
An Applied Geometry problem for sure. I shall have to put on my "Ponder Hat".

Yup. Elsewhere in the thread, I contemplate repurposing a pair of groove joint pliers to that end.
(...)

Oops.
Shall check it out.

I've met a few, too. Still looking for the exception to the rule. Nuff said.
--Winston
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Cut one down and bend the ends in??
jsw
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Jim Wilkins wrote:
(...)

Or I could slice the ends of a couple black pipes diagonally to make a 'beak' and hinge them a few inches back from the points.
Not fancy but quick and dirty.
--Winston
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If you had a skidsteer or a backhoe and wanted a specialized tool, you'd want a grapple. I've never seen a manual one, though. They're all hydraulically powered.
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Denis G. wrote:
(...)

Armed with your suggestion, I stumbled across patent 3352589
<http://www.google.com/patents?id=3TlTAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA2&dq352589&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=2#v=onepage&q352589&f lse>
That is *close* to what I need.
--Winston
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Hmmm.... I looked thru some patents too and came up with this: http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=hI0QAAAAEBAJ&dq=6824181 I'm not sure how well it helps you, but maybe it'll give you some ideas to make something. You'll probably need to erect a tripod or gantry crane over the hole to pull out the stone.
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Denis G. wrote:
(...)

For some footings, a similar tool would be ideal. A grapple that engages the *inside* of the cavity left in the footing by the rotten fence post.
I've pulled old footings out of the ground using the old cavity. It's just that I used a web strap instead of a grapple.
Right now though, I'm looking for a hand tool to clean out the little pieces rather than the big pieces.
Thanks!
--Winston
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This doesn't solve exactly what you're attempting to do, but there's an Atlas Copco hydraulic post puller made for road crews: http://www.crowderhydraulictools.com/post-puller.htm It's pricey (although maybe you can rent one) and it doesn't solve your problem of grabbing what you want to pull (big or little). Just more food for thought.
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Denis G. wrote:
(...)

That is similar in concept to the cart I welded together for the same purpose, though I grant that it probably works faster than my little hydraulic cart!
Turns out that I very rarely need to pull a post that is still firmly affixed to it's footing. A vast majority of the time, the post has parted company with it's footing and my job is to lift the footing from it's hiding place below grade.
Thanks!
--Winston
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Do these pictures make you wince?
Pretty girls, open-toed sandals, post hole diggers. EEK!
http://ddl.me.cmu.edu/ddwiki/index.php/Post_hole_digger_redesign Maybe an Erie Digger is what you're after. http://tinyurl.com/34uxbcj
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the right versus the left, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
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Larry Jaques wrote:
(...)

That Erie Digger is quite cool! I haven't seen anything like that before.
Thanks!
--Winston
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