hey, a few months ago someone posted a link to a guy who has a eBay store
who takes in non-functioning NiCad battery packs and refurbishes them, at
what at the time seemed like a really great price. do any of you guys
recall that and did any of you save that link? i saved it SOMEWHERE on my
computer but can't find it now, i just tried to find it in R.C.M. archives
"William Wixon" wrote: (clip) do any of you guys recall that and did any
of you save that link? (clip)
This is probably the one...I saved it about that long ago:
WC Battery Rebuilders
Now I'm going to add Tom Gardner's suggestion to my list.
You can almost certainly get it done locally - look in the yellow
pages, or the local paper. Its a booming industry, mainly due to
laptops. And yes, if they use premium Japanese cells instead of the
Chines crap, performance is MUCH better.
"Karl Townsend" wrote in
message news:tDsRh.134929$ email@example.com...
They neatened-up their web page recently, they must have gotten some grief.
They had some very humorous quips about all their people and they are a
BIZARRE group. They are in a small Ohio town and need to get out more.
Why bother with NiCad? You can rebuild them yourself with NimH cells
cheaply, and enjoy much enhanced performance. When the NiCad pack puked
in my beloved little Roomba, I got 3200mh subC NimH cells on ebay and
made the triangular-point tool for opening the pack. The new cells have
solder tabs, so simple to make up a new 8 cell pack. Roomba now runs an
incredible 2.5 hrs between charges. The cost of the rebuild was 1/2 the
cost of replacement packs on Ebay. The cells are excellent quality, made
by the J A Pan Co. :)
Dweller in the cellar
William Wix> hey, a few months ago someone posted a link to a guy who has a eBay store
NiCad batteries show excellent performance in high-discharge and
low-temperature applications, such as powertool batteries. They also have
long shelf and use life. NiMh costs more and has half the service life of
the NiCd cell, but it also has 30% more capacity. (copied from the Voltman
On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 20:43:58 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, JR
North quickly quoth:
Don't Nicad and NimH cells charge and float differently, requiring a
The art of medicine consists in amusing the patient
while nature cures the disease. --Voltaire (1694-1778)
Possibly. However, NiMh are replacements for many NiCad applications,
where they use the OEM charging scheme- like my Sony camcorders.
Aftermarket chargers I have, and have seen, group NiCad and NiMh, and
differentiate with Lithium types.
Dweller in the cellar
Larry Jaques wrote:
A while back, I went to a place called batteries plus here in Phx. I wanted
to rebuild a fluke battery pack and needed AA Nicads with a solder tab. I
asked the guy at the counter for 6 solder tab batteries. He said we don't
sell them, what do you need them for. I said to rebuild my battery pack.
Then the guy says We can do that for you, here is the price. Well the price
is about twice what the batteries cost. So I say you don't sell individual
batteries, only packs.... OK, I want 6 one cell AA battery packs. He says
no... Ok, I'll just take 6 standard AA NiCad's and solder to them. The Guy
goes through the roof... I wont sell them to you, you will be killed
soldering to batteries, you will go blind he says, you will loose your
fingers.... etc etc etc.
So OUT the door I go... waving a finger (or two) at him...
HF had the standard batteries cheaper anyway and when I got done soldering
up the new pack, I still had all my fingers and toes!!!!! Ive been soldering
to batteries forever, without a problem....
bob in phx (who will never go to batteries plus again)
This should probably come with a lot more disclaimers than it does)
and probably not recommended for "industrial batteries," but I have
ressurected a few batteries that I had marked for dead using this
method. Works very well (Inluding on an electric toothbrush!)
thanks Leo, voltmanbatteries.com was the link i was thinking of though.
thanks for mentioning Tom's reply, i wouldn't've seen it if you hadn't
mentioned it, i've had Tom on my "blocked sender" list for a while now.
Thanks Tom, voltmanbatteries was the link i was thinking of, i mailed my
batteries to him yesterday, now anxiously awaiting their return. i was
overjoyed when i re-read their website, only $35 rebuilt instead of the $60
to $80 what others were asking for new.
Andrew, thanks, i looked in my local phone book but didn't see anything,
sent 'em to voltman.
Karl, i'm glad i brought the topic up again for discussion.
thanks LimeyLew, that's something huh? the guy is selling instructions on
eBay, wow. i sent my batteries to voltman though.
huh! JR, thanks for your reply, and link. that's great about your Roomba
and NiMh conversion trick. would i've been able to continue to use the
supplied NiCad charger with the NiMh batteries? Oh i just saw your follow
up post. huh. now i'm having regrets. :-( (just clicked on your link and
said out loud "JEE-sus", they've got a lot of batteries huh?!)
Bob in Phx, funny story. huh! glad to hear the outcome (left the store and
soldered 'em up on your own, w/o injuries or destruction)
thanks for the link Surftom, actually that was one of the first things i
came across when i put "reviving NiCads" into Google. i have a dialup
connection so was shy about watching the video and/but did eventually watch
the video (after i'd mailed off my batteries) and started to feel some REAL
regrets (coulda done the job for FREE instead of $80 or even $35 bucks!!!)
but i'm still feeling like i did the first time i came across that article,
i'd be afraid to screw up somehow and blow up the batteries. i remember
reading a LONG thread on this topic years ago and all the cautions the guys
there were throwing out (someone warned against using 110 volts and the
leads welding onto the batteries, etc.), at the time it seemed like there
were SO many things that could go wrong. maybe next time though, got to
keep that trick in mind. seems too good to be true though.
anyone ever hear of this method to fix a shorted nicad?
120V ac house current feed one wire through a single diode(to make
pulsed DC) then through a 100W light bulb, (a 100W current limiting
resistor) then to the dead battery, then to other 120V lead. Check
your polatirty and connect battery correctly, depends on which way you
connect the diode.
IIRC, a few seconds to a minute is all thats needed.
1N4004 works for the diode. 1A, 200V
Remove 333 from email address to reply.
1004 is a 600v - but in fact should work. It might have more leakage,
but more likely the same as the 002 (100v) 003 ( 200v) ... Google the part
Fairchild semi. is one source - digikey is the source for many.
data sheet on a semi or digikey.
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
well, so, wanted to post a follow up. i received my refurbished batteries
from voltman.com 2 days ago. everything was in order, (i sent two
batteries, received two batteries back, the batteries appeared fine, no
damage, etc., there were no other surprise fees or charges, etc.) charged
them up as per the instruction sheet that accompanied the batteries. i'm
entirely pleased with voltman.com's service. only thing though, and i'm
curious about this, my drill DID actually seem peppy-ier and stronger than i
ever remember it being. in their ads voltman.com says they replace your
dead batteries with even STRONGER batteries. i mean, seriously, my drill
seemed like it was in hyperdrive. there were lots more sparks coming out of
the brushes than i remember and the electric brake seemed to engage
quicker/harder than i ever remember it doing. i put a voltmeter on the
batteries and they both seemed to me to be reading 16.5 volts (the battery
packs are rated 14.4) there are three contacts on my batteries (and that is
something i cannot understand) when i touch one contact it reads 16.5 and
when i touch the other it reads 14.4. there are only two contacts on the
drill and those two correspond to the two contacts on the battery that are
reading 16.5. what i was hoping to ask here is if there is any risk that
running 16.5 volts in a 14.4 drill could damage the drill? other than that
i'm entirely pleased with voltman.com and thanks to everyone, specifically
Tom Gardner, for turning me on to them.