Could someone tell me how to remove the bolt on a Remington 700 rifle so I can clean the barrel? Is there some special tool needed? I dont want to mess anything up, but I would like to clean the barrel without cleaning from the crown end toward the reciever. Thanks, Craig
can you pull the bolt back, make sure that the gun is not loaded, and as you pull back, pull the trigger? My rifle is not a remington (I have 2 rifles) but they both work this way.
The bolt release button is in the top of the trigger guard just in front of the trigger. Press up on the release and pull the bolt out. Reverse the process to reinstall.
Slip a bit of coathanger, bicycle spoke etc etc in the left side of the receiver at the rear, next to the bolt and push down the spring loaded detent inside. Pull the bolt to the rear and it comes out. I use a stiff piece of copper wire. Then look inside and check out what it looks like so you can do it in an instant the next time.
Gunner Political Correctness
A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Lift the bolt handle and pull the bolt back. Now push the small tab in front of the trigger into the trigger guard and hold it. They are usually VERY STIFF. The bolt will pull out now.
Sounds like you may have what they call a "self ejecting bolt". Try loading the rifle, then slowly push the bolt forward while pulling the trigger. You should have a source for new bolts as it is sometimes hard to find the "self ejected" one. Dixon
I did check one of my later model 700s..and yes..there is a release button in the trigger guard Id forgotten about. Mea Culpa.
I assumed that the OP was unable to find the bolt release, which on a late model is pretty obvious, so figured he had the earlier style. Which..you do need a long thin tool with wwith which to to depress the bolt stop located inside the left side of the receiver, to remove the bolt.
Shrug.
Gunner
Political Correctness
A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Let's assume, just for the moment, that you're not a troll, and that you've actually lost the documents that come with the gun.
Unload the weapon.
Open the bolt.
Somewhere down below, just forward of the trigger, sometimes beside the trigger guard, sometimes inside it, depending on which year your gun happens to be, there's a little pushbutton widget. Press it, and while pushing the button pull the bolt out the rest of the way.
However... If you need to ask this question in the first place, I have to wonder if you're qualified to be handling the weapon, let alone attempting to disassemble it...
My 700 was, according to the serial number, a 1962 edition. AKA "The first year of manufacture". The only tools required to disassemble it into its component parts - As in *FULL* disassembly, including disassembling the bolt - were a long-shafted (had to have at least a 7 inch shaft to reach into the hole under the butt-plate to remove the rear screw in order to detach the stock) phillips screwdriver and a penny - Yes, the copper one-cent coin of the realm. Removing the bolt required nothing but a bit of coordination.
If you've got a 700 that isn't broken, and needs a tool to remove the bolt, get it up for auction, bub - it's worth a fortune as a one-of-a-kind.
Thanks to all who ans. my question (without the sarcastic overtones). There is indeed a small pushbutton in the trigger guard , once depressed the bolt came right out. Thanks. The only other rifle I have requires you to pull the bolt back and pull the trigger. I tried this with no luck on the Rem. so I stopped, and asked someone (you guys) for help before f****ng anything up. Seemed like a logical solution. Craig
Hummm...it does have an aftermarket triggerguard on it. The aluminum ones tended to bust at the front bow. Ill have to drop the guard and see if there is a lever up inside.
The 600s, which are the same action, though early..do need that pesky tool to push in on the bolt stop lever.
Any idea of what is the proper filler metal for an aluminum trigger guard? Ive two of them, an ADL and a BDL with busted bows. One through the floorplate release and the other straight across. The floor plate release can be safely ignored.its a working gun.
Im more comfortable now with welding aluminum..so am going to try welding them up pretty soon. Some thin thin metal....
Gunner
Political Correctness
A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
I'm a pretty decent welder. I have a nice square wave TIG. I can weld anything (almost). I've tried welding on a gun a few times and usually regret it. A few thoughts:
Thin die cast aluminum does not weld well Powered metal does not weld well Bluing messes up a weld Even a good weld looks crappy on a gun (unless it is a Sten)
I have never needed anything to remove the bolt assy. from my Remy's. My Ruger has a lever on the left side and all the Remy's have the trigger button. Got me confused and I had to actully look and all my guns. Funny, something you never really think about.
I think Rugers look better than they shoot. I've never shot a Ruger centerfire rifle that could keep up with a Rem 700. In fact, I'll bet most new Rem 700s will probably group close to one MOA out of the box. An I've shot Rugers that were four times that.
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