OT Metal replacement roofing?

I wouldn't go with metal on a practically dead-flat roof because of the 'standing water going over the edges of the seams' problem. And there has to be at least a little slope for drainage - that close to flat, you'll have low spots that puddle, and rust will start...

Torch-down Modified roll roofing on a properly prepared substrate (felt and underlayment) would hold up fine - that's our back patio.

Better than tar, because that's too easy to mess up in the application. And then there's the gravel and rocks that get everywhere other than on top of the roof...

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My parents boiler room had a slightly sloped steel roof. Never leaked. Karl

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 22:32:59 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

So he could always frame up some tiny trusses and go with metal, insulating the open space created after ventilating the roof properly.

Tell me about torching-down MRR, please. Speaking of which, I just swung by HF yesterday and picked up one of the self-igniting weed torches. I've heard they're good for hot tar mods, too. I need to redo my back porch with a downward angle and reroof. The original installer had it V-shaped (tilting back toward the house to drain into the gutters) and it leaks into my back wall. I'll probably go with MRR or maybe shingles. It's only 8x10ish. Then again, once I get it stripped, I may want to move to metal or just peel more off and go with fiberglass for the extra light in the dining room. We'll see.

I hate finding tiny rocks everywhere. Barefoot, they're painful as hell. Shoed, they're slippery and dangerous. Mowing, they're little marbles whizzing off into nearby car/house windows and into people at light speed. Lovely things, wot?

-- Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned. -- Oliver Wendell Holmes

Rex,

I'd read the technical information on this companies website. Sure helped me out.

When I've seen metal laid over existing asphalt shingles, 2x4 are laid horizontally across roof to provide an anchor point, venting, and to smooth out the attachment surface.

The ribbed panels over lap, there is a caulking tape that should be used on overlap, the rib ends are filled by formed foam strips to keep the critters out and a ridge cap is used with a breathing filler also to provide ventilation with out critters.

Wes

You could false it out and put some slope there, and then have enough slope to use a metal roof. Remember to add eave vents on the ends and perhaps a bit of ridge vent at the center, so there is some air circulation in the new "attic".

That's all it takes - you start to place the roofing from the bottom of the roof and flip it over, heat the backing with the weed torch till it melts, then flip it over and press down the edges with a heavy floor roller.

Hope you got the torch with the pilot light valve and the trigger main valve - much better control over the intensity. The piezo lighter is of dubious value - IMHO something to break when dropped.

Get a sheetmetal specialist to look at it - they do make special metal for rain-gutter use, with an edge that you torch the Modified Roofing on the patio roof down to. The other edge is tucked under the drip edge metal from the house roof, and caulked.

That, or put a scupper drain at the low spot of the patio roof, and take the Modified Roll up to and under the regular roof shingles. Always more than one way to attack a problem like that.

Regular roofing with some simple "single-pane" skylights with curbs is going to hold up better than fiberglass sheeting. When the fiberglass goes bad you have to replace the whole roof again.

You may have to special order the "cheap skylights", because they figure they're all being used into an inhabited space and have to be double pane for the thermal insulation. If you are over an open patio, there are no such restrictions - you might even want the ones with the ventilation louvers on the top edge of the curbs.

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On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 11:08:09 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

I was thinking of venting the roof vs. the "attic".

Cool!

I spent the extra $10 and got the igniter. Yes, it has the flow valve and a burst lever for fuel savings when it's not actively in use. $30 on sale at HF. I'll try it out on the weeds tomorrow if it's a burn day. My neighbor has one which keeps going out, so I opted for the piezo starter. He has his relegated to the burn pile only.

ChaCHING! Pass. I'm too che^H^H^Hfrugal for that.

I'd rather just take the 4x8 out, pull a few nails, adjust the 2x8s, paper it, and gutter the end. Tilting the patio cover toward the roof has always been a bad idea AFAIC.

$75 a decade ain't a hard pill to swallow. But that would be loud in the rain. I think the rolled roofing on a reversed tilt is my best bet. I already have a roll of felt for redoing the pump house roof. Maybe a coat of white paint on the back patio would light the house more easily. The white shop floor, despite how easily it shows dirt, is really great. I can find those dropped hardware pieces (Jesus clips and such) MUCH easier now and it brightened the whole shop considerably.

-- Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned. -- Oliver Wendell Holmes

When I did the metal roof over my place the pitch was 2 1/2 in twelve. Not so great in snow country. I added structural members to change the pitch to

5 in 12.

Wes