OT Metal replacement roofing?

A good start was to post to rec.crafts.metalworking.

Much will depend on exactly what you are looking for in the way of a roof.

for information click on

google on

and < sale OR discount OR surplus "metal shingles">

and < sale OR discount OR surplus "metal roofs">

for more than you wanted to know.

Unka' George [George McDuffee] ============ Merchants have no country. The mere spot they stand on does not constitute so strong an attachment as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826), U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

R-panels or standing seam. Doesn't make me much difference, as long as it's watertight.

Doing a metal roof is a 90-10 project. The 90% of the area covered by big flat sheets is 10% of the work. Measure carefully, order them cut to length, screw them down. Only a couple of rules - align the first sheet _very_ carefully, and don't torque the screws down so hard you spread the sheets and blow your careful measurements.

At least 90% of your work will be your skylights, the peak and edge trims, and the resilient sealers around all the free edges. You'll probably want custom soldered flashings around the skylights, or at least very carefully sealant-assembled ones. Don't forget the vent stacks - if one happens to intersect a seam between roofing sheets, it can be a real pain to seal effectively. Metal moves around with temperature changes enough that you can't just squirt a bead of sealant around interruptions.

Done properly, a metal roof is trouble free for a very long time. But if it is done to the standards of a barn to cut costs, you'll regret it.

Loren

Be aware that a metal roof will "weep" water from condensation and will eventually cause rot it not properly vented. Be sure and allow venting at the top and a way for air to enter at the bottom.

Paul in Central Oregon

I live in S. Florida, where we have had several hurricanes lately, so there are lots of new roofs in my neighborhood. While once there we had no metal roofs at all, now they are getting to be common. Metal roofs are getting a very good reputation here for standing up to hurricane force winds with no damage.

After Wilma, I noticed several roofs in my neighborhood that seemed to have been homeowner installed, so the job must be something less than impossible. Just be sure to read the manufacturer's installation instructions and follow them with religious fervor.

Vaughn

Interesting. this is to be laid directly atop a non-leaking asphalt shingle layer. We intend to change to ridge vent, and cut soffit vents. I presume the small airspace in the raised portion of the metal would breed condensation, with the open ends at the bottom allowing drainage. Or are those open ends typically capped?

Rex,

Mueller will deal and deal good if they think another mfg. is going to get the order.

Get a very low quote from another supplier, don't mention the price but go back to Mueller at least five times while they try to shave the price.

I don't think that applies in Texas. I grew up in South Carolina 25 miles from the coast and the standing seam steel roof is now 80-90 years old with no rot in the framing and no drip marks on the rafters. All the old houses are roofed that way. Standing seam is expensive to have installed. The screw down stuff is easy to install but flashing around skylights and stuff has to be done properly but I wouldn't think it would be any harder to learn than flashing for any other roof covering. Since I only patched and painted the roof I can safely say I can't tell you how to flash it but if they can you can learn how. Karl

That's good to know. I figured on finding someone who has a commercial account there, but no luck so far.

Thanks

Rex wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:

I would highly recommend lathing the roof. With no air moving between the tin and shingles, moisture will build up and creep behind the shingles. 1" x lathing should work.

How do you (and the poster from Oregon) propose to have air movement under the metal roof and above the asphalt shingles without creating bat heaven there? The guys who installed my (similar to R-Panel) roof left out the sealers on the part under the solar collectors, and the bats moved in and multiplied. I like having bats around, but after a few years the smell was unbearable.

I ended up having to disconnect and remove the solar collectors, remove a large area of roofing, clean up the mess, and re-assemble everything. You can believe I sealed and caulked every possible opening, no matter how tiny. It was amazing to see how small a space a bat can squeeze through.

Granted, my metal is not installed over a layer of asphalt, or any other moisture barrier. I wouldn't expect the tab shingles to be a problem, but there is probably a relatively continuous layer of roofing paper under them that might be enough of a barrier to cause condensation. If it was my roof, I'd strip off the asphalt before applying metal. Solves the moisture issue, lets you seal the metal tightly against living things, and avoids the smell of roasting asphalt oozing into your house when the sun shines on the metal.

Loren

Loren Amelang wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

It requires a ridge vent, and vents below the metal, usually in the soffet. Some small slots in the sheeting/asphalt near the eaves will provide the air at the bottom. There would be a lathe at the edge of the eave, so no bats can get in there.

Anthony wrote: There would be a lathe at the edge of the eave

Hardware cloth?

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:10:29 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Anthony quickly quoth:

Tell us more about this turning up at the soffits and eaves, Tony. Isn't it hard to work up there on your lathe? Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned. -- Oliver Wendell Holmes

Not far from you is Dublin, call Bradberry Building Supply 254 445

Scott

:>So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof? :A good start was to post to rec.crafts.metalworking.

Maybe, but I'd have thought of alt.home.repair first. Or better yet, cross posted.

:On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex wrote: : :>At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me. :>This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it :>ourselves. :>

:>So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof? : :Doing a metal roof is a 90-10 project. The 90% of the area covered by :big flat sheets is 10% of the work. Measure carefully, order them cut :to length, screw them down. Only a couple of rules - align the first :sheet _very_ carefully, and don't torque the screws down so hard you :spread the sheets and blow your careful measurements. : :At least 90% of your work will be your skylights, the peak and edge :trims, and the resilient sealers around all the free edges. You'll :probably want custom soldered flashings around the skylights, or at :least very carefully sealant-assembled ones. Don't forget the vent :stacks - if one happens to intersect a seam between roofing sheets, it :can be a real pain to seal effectively. Metal moves around with :temperature changes enough that you can't just squirt a bead of :sealant around interruptions. : :Done properly, a metal roof is trouble free for a very long time. But :if it is done to the standards of a barn to cut costs, you'll regret :it. : :Loren

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30 feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one

Dan

PS Sorry to hijack this thread a bit.

I have a perfectly flat R-Panel metal roof over a 10'x10' gazebo/deck area. It doesn't leak, so long as I ocasionally rake the accumulated vegetation off of it. Once the leaves and eventual compost get as deep as the ridges in the metal, water will take the easy path. It probably won't last as long as a sloped roof due to corrosion under the damp compost. All depends on your ratio of falling vegetation and spiders to heavy rain...

Also have a hot tar and fiberglass mat roof that is perfectly good after 22 years. Where do you get 7? There is also torchdown, which might be DIY, and various continuous membrane systems that probably aren't.

Loren