Paint problems

I have had problems with applying Rustolium over other paints -- seems to either wrinkle ot not cure -- or both. Now I stick with Krylon. No problems (yet.) Not very good at chemistry so I do not know the reasons.

Mill

machine snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Crumb) wrote in news:7f446fbd.0407041015.7d2ae8f3 @posting.google.com:

I suspect that either of the previous two paints are still outgassing. This outgassing is keeping the clearcoat from fully curing.

It's very difficult to say why it's not curing fully as you might expect. Sometimes paints are incompatible with substrates, such as latex & vinyl. If you ever noticed the plastic vinyl strip used as a seal on many garage doors, if a painter paints it with latex paint it wll simply never dry. It just remains gummy.

Your best bet is to keep things similar if you are in doubt, Use polyurethanes over polyurethanes, and acrylics over acrylic. All paints are proprietary formulations, and you never know what they are putting in the can sometimes.

You should be able to bake it to 100F or 140F without hurting any circuitry.

If you are making lots of these you should get a 2 component system, epoxies are very durable and cure quickly.

You could also try baking your substrate to 100F or 140F _prior to painting_ to burn off residual volatiles which might be complicating the cure.

Sounds like your base coat never fully cured, might want to go with acrylics.

Things like that are prone to happening when you mix various brands and types of products, I have always had excessivley long (to me anyhow) cure / dry times with any Rustoleum product, even when used with rustoleum primers and top coat..it takes forever to dry. I certainly would not add any more coats to it especially another type, but give it a while longer in sun perhaps and see what happens.

Any particular reason you used etching type primer?

Odds are the primer or finish coats prior to th clear were not fully cured...........if not its a mix of in compatability, and all you can do is hope for the best of the worse. Krylon brands of paint are tops IMHO, if you use rattle cans, and hen they say dry in 12 or 15 minutes its dry and and usually cured within an hour tops. Krylon is hard to beat for rattle can paint. Visit my website:

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Second that, Roy! Krylon is hard to beat; it's been my choice for years. Several years ago, for some reason the local Home Despots quit handling Krylon paint and went to Rustoleum for their top-quality line. I would guess profit motive was the reason for dropping Krylon. Anyway, I go to Ace Hardware and some others for Krylon now. It is more expensive than Rustoleum but, IMO, a whole lot better.

Sounds like you mixed your paints. I suspect the first coat absorbed the dryers from the clear coat and is acting like a sponge. Perhaps a a high intensity lamp as nominal heat from a distance - don't want to melt paint or anything else. It might help drive out the dryers.

Martin [ not a paint man, but has pained a number of good and bad examples :-) ]

May I suggest another method? See

this case, I wanted black on white but there's no reason why I couldn't use any colour(s) my Canon inkjet printer can handle. A better grade of paper than I used might not even need the white backing coat. The finished paper can be epoxied onto the substrate if you wish. I've made a few panels this way as well as the decorative artwork for a running quail wind toy. If you can draw it and print it, you can do pretty much anything you want.

Ted

snip

All the Wal-MArts I have been in carry Krylon brand spray and also a fair assortment of brush on Krylon paints.....$2.39 to $2.69 a can........even their farm implement / tractor colors are a dead match for OEM paint and a fraction of the cost the dealers such as John Deere and Ford charge.

Last week when I was in Wally World I walked by the clearance section that was setup and noticed a bunch of Krylon brush type apints in pint and quart containers, Pint cans were $1.00 and the Quart cans $1.99. They had a ot of the most common colors, so I picked up a pretty fair assortment. It sprays nice with a spray gun. Visit my website:

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I used it hoping that it sould stick better and be less prone to chipping. WRONG! I guess lacquer based primers are all alike... very fragile. Does krylon make an acrylic based primer? Do I even need to use primer???

Yeah... I wanted to get krylon, but Lowes had rustolium. I was actually surprised at Lowes' poor selection of spray paints.

That's a very nice web site you got there. I've always wanted to get into casting metal and even read some of the Lindsay's books but never followed through. You may have inspired me to finally do something :-)

Too many different paint types in your mix! You're lucky the stuff just didn't wrinkle up and peel off.

I like automotive finishes on metal parts that have to take a lot of abuse. The two-part urethanes are fairly expensive, though, and you have to have a compressor and spray gun as well as a good mask. I've also used some Red Devil line spray-can urethane on some shop stools and such, it's held up very well, no clues where to get it now, Target used to sell it. I've not had good luck with Rustoleum's spray paint products, same problem, it reacted badly with the undercoat. The brush-on stuff is OK, though. Sounds like you're going to have to strip it and redo it.

Stan

I have had excellent with rustoleum "Rust tough" paint when used with rustoleum primer.

Thats what I had originally painted my 20 inch bandsaw with, and as soon as I starated to spray it on (used correct primer under finish coat as well as correct thinner as called for by Rottenoleum) aI knew it was gonna be a waste of time. The primer seemed to take forever to dry, and when it was finally dry to the touch I gave it another day.......then shot it with the Rottenoleum finish coat, and no matter how light of a mist coat you applied it would run right off the primer coat like water on a ducks back...........and no the paint was not thinned down more than 1/2 of the max recomended by Rottenoleum.

I wound up having to strip the bandsaw back down to bare metal and then shot it with Valspar automotive primer and paint, primer was dry and ready for top coat within 30 minutes or less, and shot the top coat and within an hour was able to assemble any items I had taken off, and it was in use later that day...........without any runs. Visit my website:

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