power distribution box

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.
OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller :(
Karl
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I thought that you are talking about the box in the trailer, am I missing anything?
i
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Under the hood, in front of the driver, assuming it's similar to a '95 F150, which is not a bad bet. Or RTFM.
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Karl Townsend wrote:

I don't know on a '93, but on a '09 there is the underhood fuse box (BJB) near the brake MC and the junction box (SJB) in the cab in the passenger side footwell behind a trim panel.
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It's a short ways aft of the battery on my 91 Ranger. The computer power relay is hidden under it.
jsw
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Karl Townsend wrote:

Look for Fuse D in the underhood box. Plus check the trailer relay itself, it will also be in that box.
--
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On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following wires two different days. Even had my better half look.
Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.
OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.
Karl
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wrote:

http://recommendations.ebay.com/92-97-Ford-Truck-F250-F350-POWER-DISTRIBUTION-BOX-COVER-/MESMR?_pvtid 0570686172
jsw
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On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:36:50 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

that's a clue, I'll look AGAIN.
damn manual talks about it at length, but they assume its easy to find.
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IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.
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On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:35:20 -0400, Ecnerwal

I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.
of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get familiar for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an intermittant electrical failure.
Karl
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wrote:

If I didn't have the full 91 Ford Ranger shop manual set I could have traced the wiring from the Haynes manual, which has copies of the same drawings.
On mine the connectors disassemble by removing the colored insert plugs, and Autozone sells a small kit of replacement Ford connector pins. Write down the color coding, the factory manual doesn't give the pinout for all connectors.
jsw
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    How about a persistant electrical failure at 20,000 feet? :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:36:23 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

Beat me to it...
But seriously, fuses can go intermittent, especially ATO and ATM - the thin element fractures where it meets the thicker end pin, and unless you look REAL close you won't see the little black line where it shorts across and then goes open across.
If nothing else, isolate the fuse on that circuit, and change it on General Principles with a known new American fuse (this is NOT the place to use that Harbor Freight fuse assortment) , and the gremlin should go away.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:34:07 -0500, Karl Townsend

Was it raining? If you have ANY windsheild leak on those trucks the electrics go crazy. Friend's truck (a 150, not a 350) would turn the lights on, blow the horn, start the wipers, or have the wipers quit - all kind's of strange stuff - and it ALL went away 3 months ago or so when he replaced the windshield - - - - .
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On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:15:18 -0500, Karl Townsend

It is, the second time!!
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In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads. Safer, but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's usually a bad ground.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.
OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.
Karl
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The military's Preventative Maintenance procedures help a lot, as long as you don't break it while taking it apart. I've cleaned and Ox-Gard'ed almost every connector and ground on my truck.
jsw
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On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:42:44 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

Two cases come to mind: - '83 "K" car with electric windows and locks. Master control panel on the driver's door arm rest, wires routed everywhere by a cable across the floor pan under the insulation mat under the floor mat under the feet of the driver. Now where do you suppose it would be most likely to find melted salted snow in a vehicle driven under winter conditions? All of the branches were tee'd off in this area with connections made by spot welding, granted, these conections were protected by being covered with a fold of fabric "friction" insulating tape. Each fold of tape contained a greenish powdery deposit when exammined.
- '90 Lumina APV with composite body. things like horns, wipers and ignition stared to fail after ~10 years. Solution? - lots of copper braid + ring lugs + sheet metal screws/pop rivets bonding failed items to battery ground terminal.
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My only long-term experience with Ox-Gard has been on the TV antenna, where it keeps the signal strong and aluminum hardware clean for several years.
Usually I put dielectric grease or LPS-3 on car connectors, but the Ranger had corrosion I couldn't completely scrub out so I hoped the zinc particles would break through it. I'm retired and don't have to drive through salted slush any more.
LPS-3 is about as good as anything else I've tried on battery terminals.
When I bought the truck Ford sold a special hi-temp grease for disk brake caliper sliding surfaces. They later discontinued it and recommended silicone dielectric grease instead.
jsw
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