power distribution box

I thought that you are talking about the box in the trailer, am I missing anything?

Under the hood, in front of the driver, assuming it's similar to a '95 F150, which is not a bad bet. Or RTFM.

I don't know on a '93, but on a '09 there is the underhood fuse box (BJB) near the brake MC and the junction box (SJB) in the cab in the passenger side footwell behind a trim panel.

It's a short ways aft of the battery on my 91 Ranger. The computer power relay is hidden under it.

jsw

Look for Fuse D in the underhood box. Plus check the trailer relay itself, it will also be in that box.

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following wires two different days. Even had my better half look.

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

that's a clue, I'll look AGAIN.

damn manual talks about it at length, but they assume its easy to find.

IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads. Safer, but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's usually a bad ground.

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Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.

of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get familiar for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an intermittant electrical failure.

Karl

The military's Preventative Maintenance procedures help a lot, as long as you don't break it while taking it apart. I've cleaned and Ox-Gard'ed almost every connector and ground on my truck.

jsw

Na, they just put a little on in NY. They really hammer it here in MN. the truck does have some pretty serious rust issues.

I do need to remove the dump box, sandblast, weld and re-paint. Looks like new wiring and carry a ground on the list too.

I gues I'm lucky. I own enough equipment that i always have something to work on.

karl

If I didn't have the full 91 Ford Ranger shop manual set I could have traced the wiring from the Haynes manual, which has copies of the same drawings.

On mine the connectors disassemble by removing the colored insert plugs, and Autozone sells a small kit of replacement Ford connector pins. Write down the color coding, the factory manual doesn't give the pinout for all connectors.

jsw

Two cases come to mind:

- '83 "K" car with electric windows and locks. Master control panel on the driver's door arm rest, wires routed everywhere by a cable across the floor pan under the insulation mat under the floor mat under the feet of the driver. Now where do you suppose it would be most likely to find melted salted snow in a vehicle driven under winter conditions? All of the branches were tee'd off in this area with connections made by spot welding, granted, these conections were protected by being covered with a fold of fabric "friction" insulating tape. Each fold of tape contained a greenish powdery deposit when exammined.

- '90 Lumina APV with composite body. things like horns, wipers and ignition stared to fail after ~10 years. Solution? - lots of copper braid + ring lugs + sheet metal screws/pop rivets bonding failed items to battery ground terminal.

Makes life worth living, don't it!

You own it, or it owns you???

jsw

How about a persistant electrical failure at 20,000 feet? :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

It is, the second time!!