QCTP tool blocks

I've picked up some more indexable tooling with 10mm shanks and I'm going to need more blocks . I'm looking at some A36 and some 1018 cold drawn, both reasonably priced . Does either have an advantage over the other ? Snag

-----------------------------------------

I think A36 implies hot rolled. If the one you pick has distortion or surface finish problems you could anneal it, which has cured mystery metal for me.

Shims that raise the 10mm holders to the same cutting edge height as your other tooling might be simpler.

The other day I ran across a watchmakers lathe for sale and have been considering whether or not to buy it. After reading accounts of using one I don't think I need to learn precision turning with hand held gravers, and my Sears AA has the speed for polishing and drilling small deep holes. I turned extra long #0-80 fillister head screws on my 10" South Bend and probably won't ever need something that small again. Perhaps the price of the lathe would be more usefully spent on a few 5C metric collets.

Opinions?

The watch lathe glue chuck used melted flake shellac to hold an odd shaped part that was centered by the tailstock spindle. Alcohol removes it when done, and it might be good for holding granite for polishing.

jsw

You're right , the A36 looks like hot rolled . I think I'll get the

Sounds like you've already got tools to do what the watchmakers lathe will do ...

Must be for really small pieces ... I wouldn't trust any kind of glue to hold stuff the size of what I'm usually turning .

On 9/26/2024 6:25 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote: ... Sounds like you've already got tools to do what the watchmakers lathe will do ...

------------------ Maybe, I don't know if one will do something I need better than what I have; the plain bearing, leather belt drive 10" doesn't spin very fast and the AA has a bent and imperfectly straightened spindle, their common ailment. A comparison of watch and mini lathes said the watch lathe's main advantage was being finger safe for close-up work, but so are 5C collets. The Multifix tool post lets hand-ground HSS bits in Armstrong holders enter a tight recess at a variable angle about as well as a lantern post so I don't think a graver would have any advantage there.

I just dug out my spare 5C collets to inventory them and found a pot collet bored 2", exactly what I need to complete the steel bandsaw blade guide rollers for the sawmill. Aluminum rollers are showing wear.

The Sherline was suggested as an alternative to a watch lathe. I had one in my lab at Mitre and wasn't impressed with its feel or capacity, even for small electronics work. To me the Prazi clone was a reasonable minimum for what I was doing. Despite its 1920's design the ergonomics of my South Bend has spoiled me for other machines I've tried, like a Smithy Granite.

I just dug out my spare 5C collets to inventory them and found a pot collet bored 2", exactly what I need to complete the steel bandsaw blade guide rollers for the sawmill.

------------------------------- The used 2" collet didn't feel right when tightened. Close examination showed flash from the saw cuts folded back on the taper, and compressed almost invisible. Stoning off the flash and raised metal around a ding let it close more normally.

I'm using the new 3" chuck right now to machine a slug for a veterinary syringe . I bought several at a yard sale with the idea of using them as oilers . The oil turned the barrel seals to goo so I'm machining an aluminum slug with an o-ring to replace the goo . Actually it'll have two , one to seal the plunger shaft and one for the barrel .

I'm using the new 3" chuck right now to machine a slug for a veterinary syringe . I bought several at a yard sale with the idea of using them as oilers . The oil turned the barrel seals to goo so I'm machining an aluminum slug with an o-ring to replace the goo . Actually it'll have two , one to seal the plunger shaft and one for the barrel .

----------------- The type with a narrow-edged plastic piston that slightly expands the bore where it contacts seems OK with petroleum products like grease.

Hydraulic seals are made of Buna-N or nitrile rubber. Viton should also work.

-----------------

These are glass tube assemblies with gaskets . I have some HDPE I could make a piston from but I'd have to have 2 thin edges so it would be able to suck oil up into the syringe . I think I'll stick with the o-ring design . I have metric and SAE assortments - I'd have to go out to the shop to see what they're made of and that ain't happenin' tonight . This morning I pulled the bed off my truck so I could do some finish-up work on the exhaust (finish some welding and fab/install a crossover pipe) and so I can remove the axle to take to the shop . I have a guy that's done gear set replacements that's going to do mine . He got a bunch of Sioux valve/guide/seat tooling in exchange for the axle work . It's going in as a 2.73:1 regular differential . It's coming home with 3.42's and an Eaton style posi locker . And my back hurts . After 4 shots of 99 proof whiskey it still hurts but now I don't care .