Set screws on hard shaft

I have an application where a 1" dia. shaft is hard to R-62 and a part is attached with two opposing 3/8" cup-point set screws. The part has a
cam follower on it and rotating the part on the shaft then locking it with the set screws is a positioning adjustment. There is about 75 pounds of force on the part. I hate this set-up! I just don't trust it not to slip but I can't think of a better way of locking the part on the shaft yet be able to adjust it easily.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Make a couple of flats! They won't compromise the strength, and will ensure (if the screws are gum-locked) that there's no slippage.
If you 'dimple' instead of flatting, there also will be no longitudinal play.
They make shaft-mounted stones for a reason! <G>
Lloyd
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Right up my alley, Tom..
--but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

PS... I missed the part about adjusting it.
Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period!
Lloyd
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/9/2013 5:59 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Good idea, I should have room.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My mind must be in the gutter, thought I was missing a love position.
I looked it up. I call these locking collars and use them to time cup conveyors on my packing line. They have never slipped.
Karl
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 10/09/2013 8:03 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:

My mind must be in the gutter, on my side of the pond we call cup conveyers brassieres.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Poor Karl. From this day hence, he'll be thought of as
The Apple Brassierier.
Or should that be The Apple Bra Bro? <snort>
(Sorry, Karl.)
--
[Television is] the triumph of machine over people.
-- Fred Allen
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/10/2013 4:03 AM, Scromlette wrote:

Do they use "Cup-Point" set screws?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nope... 'called "pointed tit" screws.
Lloyd
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/10/2013 0:47, Tom Gardner wrote:

Some locking arrangement with tapered parts comes to mind.
A couple of bolts to pull the taper tight, a couple of threads at other end to release the taper. Quite standard arrangement for pulleys, and handles lots of torque. "Taper lock" is one trademark. You can get them as separate parts so you can use your own cam follower, just bore the middle to match the OD of the taper lock sleeve. Cost is quite low, around 20usd.. Untightening it is surprisingly easy with the bolts at the opening threads, pushing the tapered parts apart.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Climax coupling... <G> Lloyd
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Split ring clamp?
If you like set-screws, you can use a conical tipped screw in an off-center hole so the side of the cone engages the side of the shaft.
You can also grind a shallow groove in the shaft where the screw makes contact and leave it with a rough finish. Then use a brass-tipped screw that would bite into the finish.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/9/2013 6:07 PM, anorton wrote:

No, I don't like set screws for this. I like the different clamp style parts!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Google "adjustable cam gears" and see if they give you any ideas.
Maybe.
--
Ed Huntress

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

=================== Although this will require a new hub and increase cost, one of the best solutions is what is called a split cotter [not cotter key] Very compact and has tremendous grip. Another possibility is the commercial tapered collet and hub which is tightened and removed with set screws. Also very compact and strong but $$$.
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/23454-Split-cotter-design http://www.cnccookbook.com/MTMillKurtViseStop.htm http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/LongKnurl/longknurl.html
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?gclid=COygz8ytv7kCFWxo7Aod5RwAUA&searchQuery=Taper+Lock+Bushing&op=search&Ntt=Taper+Lock+Bushing&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&cm_mmc=PPC:%20Google%20Main%204-_-Power%20Transmission%3EBushings-_-Taper%20Lock%20Bushing%3ETaper%20Lock%20Bushing%3EExact-_-Taper%20Lock%20Bushing&ef_id=UdLscgAABCcl-l@z:20130909222421:s http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=taperlock+hub&op=search&Ntt=taperlock+hub&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/9/2013 6:26 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:

Good solution!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tom Gardner wrote:

How much adjustment range and how fine an adjustment is needed? A splined setup comes to mind, 36 spline, 10 degree adjustments. How about pinning the shaft connection and making the adjustment offboard in the cam follower arm with a threaded adjustment?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Say I have a place where apples are transferred from singular cups to wieght cups and the timing must be perfect.
The chain between the two makes a U around an idler sprocket. This sprocket can be quickly rasied/lowered with a threaded bolt and handweel, changing the length of chain between the singulator and weight cup conveyors and thus the timing. Quick and accurate to change while the machine runs.
may not fit your application, but one clever idea.
Karl
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/9/2013 8:47 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

I use that method on auto wire cutters where the cut bundle fits in a trough on a chain.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.