Set screws on hard shaft

Tom Gardner fired this volley in news:LJqdnb9F1YKY37PPnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Make a couple of flats! They won't compromise the strength, and will ensure (if the screws are gum-locked) that there's no slippage.

If you 'dimple' instead of flatting, there also will be no longitudinal play.

They make shaft-mounted stones for a reason!

Lloyd

Tom Gardner fired this volley in news:LJqdnb9F1YKY37PPnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

PS... I missed the part about adjusting it.

Get a Climax coupling. They do NOT slip, period!

Lloyd

Some locking arrangement with tapered parts comes to mind.

A couple of bolts to pull the taper tight, a couple of threads at other end to release the taper. Quite standard arrangement for pulleys, and handles lots of torque. "Taper lock" is one trademark. You can get them as separate parts so you can use your own cam follower, just bore the middle to match the OD of the taper lock sleeve. Cost is quite low, around 20usd.. Untightening it is surprisingly easy with the bolts at the opening threads, pushing the tapered parts apart.

Split ring clamp?

If you like set-screws, you can use a conical tipped screw in an off-center hole so the side of the cone engages the side of the shaft.

You can also grind a shallow groove in the shaft where the screw makes contact and leave it with a rough finish. Then use a brass-tipped screw that would bite into the finish.

Kristian Ukkonen fired this volley in news:vyrXt.613$ snipped-for-privacy@uutiset.elisa.fi:

Climax coupling... Lloyd

Google "adjustable cam gears" and see if they give you any ideas.

Maybe.

====================

Although this will require a new hub and increase cost, one of the best solutions is what is called a split cotter [not cotter key] Very compact and has tremendous grip. Another possibility is the commercial tapered collet and hub which is tightened and removed with set screws. Also very compact and strong but $$$.

How much adjustment range and how fine an adjustment is needed? A splined setup comes to mind, 36 spline, 10 degree adjustments. How about pinning the shaft connection and making the adjustment offboard in the cam follower arm with a threaded adjustment?

Good idea, I should have room.

Good solution!

No, I don't like set screws for this. I like the different clamp style parts!

My mind must be in the gutter, thought I was missing a love position.

I looked it up. I call these locking collars and use them to time cup conveyors on my packing line. They have never slipped.

Karl

Say I have a place where apples are transferred from singular cups to wieght cups and the timing must be perfect.

The chain between the two makes a U around an idler sprocket. This sprocket can be quickly rasied/lowered with a threaded bolt and handweel, changing the length of chain between the singulator and weight cup conveyors and thus the timing. Quick and accurate to change while the machine runs.

may not fit your application, but one clever idea.

Karl

You need a collet setup. It sounds like you have a hub on the cam where the setscrews are. Turn the OD of the hub to a smooth, constant diameter. Slot across the hub, probably twice at right angles. Then, make a snug-fitting collar that goes around the hub. Make one slit in the collar and cross-drill for a setscrew that will close up the slit. (Easier to drill and tap first, then saw-cut the slit.) When this is clamped firmly over the hub, it forms a collet that can be VERY tight.

Jon

Hmm ... A cup-head won't do much for you unless it can deform the shaft -- which then makes subsequent adjustments more difficult.

Instead -- there are setscrews with a soft ball end (something like silver or aluminum in a cup point) so it deforms and grips the shaft without deforming the shaft.

Or consider putting annealed copper slugs turned to be the minor diameter of the thread or a bit smaller under the cup-point (or better, flat-point) setscrew. Every so many re-adjustments, pull out the copper slugs and replace with fresh ones, as they will work harden.

Good Luck, DoN.

Right up my alley, Tom..

--but you're so much of a jack ass that I'm not going to offer you help with this one, or with anything else, for that matter.

My mind must be in the gutter, on my side of the pond we call cup conveyers brassieres.

Poor Karl. From this day hence, he'll be thought of as

The Apple Brassierier.

Or should that be The Apple Bra Bro?

(Sorry, Karl.)

Do they use "Cup-Point" set screws?