Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.
Do you mean very different like just won't fit different, or very
different like one is twice as big as the other? If your pump has a
shaft that's way bigger it may need more torque than your motor can provide.
If the clutch hole is smaller but not too much smaller could you machine
it out? I don't know if laser cutting would be precise enough for
splines or if you'd have to broach it. Broaching it would, I assume, be
a big PITA.
You are going to have to frame up a mount of some sort for the
hydraulic pump, right?
I would consider looking for examples of the two splines that you need
and building a flexible (or not) bolt-up coupler between them. That
would allow for the option of replacing the pump with a different one if
or when it packs it in.
AFAIK there are various spline standards. The number of splines,
whether it is master splined (one spline wider than the others, doubt
that in this case) and the diameter are to be quoted when looking
through catalogs and the like.
You don't specify what application this is for, but on ag equipment
hydraulic pumps are often mounted to the nose of the crankshaft. I
would assume it would be easy to do the same on the rear end.
Go spline to roller sprocket on both ends, then marry the sprockets
together with duplex roller chain. Look at Surplus Center
or a bearing/power transmission parts house for hubs/shafts/sprockets.
for a splined hub/shaft that matches both and sprockets maybe around
40 pitch to mate, you will need to weld the sprockets to the
hub/shaft. The pump needs to be bolted to a mounting bracket.
Need a photo email me--remove the spamless.
I did this not too long ago on a NH stacker for a new pump,
the old one took a dump/seized and blew out the hubs. A lathe
mill makes it a easy deal.
Ed I like the double chain idea nver heard that, so I learned something new
today, time to pour a drink.
>>Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
>>weldable? Any other source?
>>I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
>>Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
>>is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
>>on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
>>plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.
> You don't specify what application this is for, but on ag equipment
> hydraulic pumps are often mounted to the nose of the crankshaft. I
> would assume it would be easy to do the same on the rear end.
> Go spline to roller sprocket on both ends, then marry the sprockets
> together with duplex roller chain. Look at Surplus Center
> or a bearing/power transmission parts house for hubs/shafts/sprockets.
> for a splined hub/shaft that matches both and sprockets maybe around
> 40 pitch to mate, you will need to weld the sprockets to the
> hub/shaft. The pump needs to be bolted to a mounting bracket.
> Need a photo email me--remove the spamless.
> I did this not too long ago on a NH stacker for a new pump,
> the old one took a dump/seized and blew out the hubs. A lathe
> mill makes it a easy deal.
The application is a homebuilt skid steer, therefore there is
flexibilty of design. If I understood you right, the pump and engine
shafts would be parallel/side by side linked together with the roller
chain. I just thought it would be helpful to have the option of
disengaging the engine from the pump instantly via the clutch in an
emergency but perhaps it is not standard practice nor is it necessary.
How about the thought of a direct link between the crankshaft, either
from the flywheel end or the crank snout, and the pump input shaft? A
hard link or a flexible link as suggested previously? If a disengaging
mechanism is not needed, then a weldable spline adapter to a plate
bolted onto the flywheel would be feasible? I do have a small vertical
mill and lathe. I want the simplest most direct coupling in keeping
with the KISS principle if that is possible. Some pictures as you
suggest would be great! Thanks.
No I think he is indicating the shafts are inline. The sprockets are
essentially butted together and a double row chain is wrapped fully
around them to couple them. It provides more drive torque capability
that a "regular" chain drive of equivalent size since it's full 360
degree coverage, while still allowing easy disassembly and compensation
for a small amount of misalignment.
See "Roller Chain Couplings"
Hydraulic relief valves provide your first stage of "emergency"
protection, the engine kill switch provides the second.
Note that all the bigger machines use "closed center" hydraulic systems
with variable displacement pumps and/or hydrostatic drive pumps so they
don't have the heating issues you have with in an open center system
where you constantly pump hydraulic fluid.
You need a coupling that allows for some misalignment as you're unlikely
to get prefect alignment in a home built setup.
Look at the roller chain couplings on the MSC site, if you have a store
like Tractor Supply Co. in your area they should have much of what you
need in the store to look at.
Oh, for that application a clutch wouldn't be necessiary, the swash
plate is what controls the pump/machine. A flange bolted direct to
the flywheel with a drive shaft to the pump is one way to set things
up. Thats how JD lawn tractors are configued.
The linkage I previously wrote about is for adding a hydraulic
system to a conventional drive system, Perhaps you could look over
a Bobcat or somesuch to see how they work. For shop built machinery
old combines are a great source of parts, lots are hydrostat. Strip
one down to the running gear and go from there. Get one with a nice
6cyl diesel and a hydrostat trans..... Move over monster garage.
Worn older machines without a lot of capacity sell for cheap at
auction...A friend of mine made a heavy duty sprayer out of an old
combine 100 ft booms ect all hydro , looks like a bug but it's
Assuming he has a hydrostatic pump.
A home built unit really need a flexible coupling of some sort since
precision alignment is unlikely.
Hydrostat is certainly the preferred way to do it. Right now we don't
know what type of pump he has. He may even have a type of pump that
requires a low pressure charge pump and if he doesn't have that he could
toast the pump in seconds. He really needs to provide more detail.
Sorry for the lack of information. All I know about this pump is that
it is an axial piston pump with some electronic controlled solenoid
piggybacked onto it. I am still gathering the precise detail about
this pump. There is a Sauer Sundstand nameplate on it that also says
"Electrical Displacement Control MCV104A7940." There is a small gear
pump attached to its tail with two hoses connected to it from the
control valve. That's all the data I have thus far. It will be spun
by my Chevy V-8 motor.
I have seen a web page describing using a lathe as a rotary shaper --
you make a tool that cuts on the end, then plunge it into the piece that
you're cutting using the main feed, while controlling the depth with the
It was being used to shape a round section of a crankcase with very low
precision requirements; I don't know if you could ever make it good
enough to shape splines.
Just how big of a skid steer are you going to make with a 283 engine? Must
be about the size of a D4 crawler.
What little bit of the smaller equipment that I have seen used a pump with
3 circuits built in to one pump.
Rule #1 for usenet engineering--assume nothing.
A u joint would be enough
A homebuilt skid steer project would be out of my league--I have
enough problems keeping the hydraulics operating on the equipment
in the yard, like the leaking mcv valve on the IHC utility
tractor--hopefully o rings will work. I can't seem to touch a
hydraulic leak/breakdown for less than 5 bills....
There is a very good chance that that pump requires the low pressure
charge pump I mentioned. You need to get most info on the pump before
you try to run it or you could destroy it. I have a big old Deere 500C
backhoe that has an 8 piston radial variable displacement main pump and
it relies on a smaller low pressure charge pump located in the
transmission to supply it's intake hydraulic fluid.
Another thing to keep in mind is you'll probably get better performance
with something other than a direct drive since most hydraulic pumps are
expecting to be on diesel engines that max out at 1,800 RPM and the pump
will likely max at a similar RPM. Put a suitable manual gearbox after
your engine and clutch and you'll not only have an easier time coupling
to the pump, you gain gear reduction to let the engine operate in it's
power band without overspeeding the pump.
That was my point. Sounds like he has a big variable displacement main
pump for an excavator or similar. Good since it allows for a closed
center hydraulic system, but he will have to fudge the wheel drive
Even the chain coupler should provide enough flex. I don't think a
typical home built unit will have precise enough mounting for a rigid
drive, but within a degree or two should be possible.
Hydraulics get expensive fast. I did a fair amount of rebuilding on my
Deere 500C and outside of the hydraulic lines everything else is big
bucks. The main pump is like $1,700 alone.
I've got the pump, two White Hydraulics roller stator motors, skid
steer tires and wheels, all the 3 inch double action cylinders I need
for the loader and backhoe arm, the steel frame partially welded
together. All that's missing is the directional valve bank, the
hydraulic system circuit and hook-up.