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stuck chuck

It's a somewhat old (early 90's) black and decker 1/2 inch, 450RPM electric drill. Exploded diagram here:

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Anyway, the chuck (keyed) is badly rusted and sticks, so I'd like to pop it off and clean it. I thought this chuck would have a locking left-hand screw inside and would screw onto the arbor with right-hand threads, like most reversing hand drills. However, looking at the diagram I don't see any indication of this system, and looking at the chuck itself there's no sign of a hex head screw to remove. All I see is a round hole in the back of the chuck. Anyone know if this is some oddball mounting scheme or if maybe someone just rounded out the screw in the past?

Reply to
B.B.
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Possibly tapered mount, maybe threaded mount.

What's the exact part number on the (jacobs?) chuck?

Jim

================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ==================================================

Reply to
jim rozen

Does the chuck offer any information? Model number, etc. It may be a Jacobs taper or, perhaps a screw inside the chuck... my Dad had one like that but it was MUCH older....

Reply to
Gene Kearns

Had one of those drills,it comes off by putting the chuck key in,fully opening the chuck,and whacking the chuck key CCW with a soft mallet.Lubricate liberally.

Reply to
ED ROGERS

THD, 1/2-20 (threaded 1/2" 20 tpi perhaps?) 33-06 1/16-12 IN

Reply to
B.B.

Yep, I'd guess 1/2-20 RH....

Reply to
Gene Kearns

Better, chuck the short arm of a large Allen wrench into the jaws, and whack the long end.

John Martin

Reply to
JMartin957

Mostly snipped

The model number (33-06) should be a Jacobs taper mount chuck, unusual for an electric drill, but possible. In order to remove it in this case, use wedges (Jacobs P/N 13269 less than $10 from MSC or the like) driven in from each side and it should come off.

The other post regarding the Allen wrench in the chuck is a good way to remove a thread mounted chuck; and if you're not the original owner, anything is possible as far as stripping out the locking screw that is usually in the thread mount versions.

Reply to
John Sullivan

Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

Yeah, that was my fear. I don't want to learn to drill out screws I can't see on something I kind of need to keep. (:

Reply to
B.B.

It's threaded. Lock the internal gears with a piece of brass and gently unscrew it.

Jim

================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ==================================================

Reply to
jim rozen

As was already mentioned, the 1/2 20 means the chuck is threaded on. As far as I know, drills that are reversible will have a left-hand threaded screw inside the chuck, that screws into the arbor shaft (and otherwise aren't needed). Your chuck should unscrew CCW.

WB ..............

Reply to
Wild Bill

Looking at the drawing, as far as I can tell, I don't see a reverse switch anywhere (the table to match the numbers to part descriptions might help), so there probably is not a screw in the chuck.

Agreed -- as long at you look from the drill bit end of the chuck. From the drill motor end, it would be clockwise.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

The taper mount versions do not usually have the locking screw, as the taper mount is self-locking.

Reply to
John Sullivan

Oh, I meant in the sense I'm glad it's a taper because that means I won't have to drill out a screw. However, it's not a taper, and that screw in there really is mangled. Today I'll be drilling it out. I hope. I never use that drill in reverse anyway, so I'll survive if I can't put another lock screw in.

Reply to
B.B.

At least this is one time when you *aren't* better off with a left-hand screw for drilling out a screw. :-)

BTW Did you *have* to put so many TLDs on the end of your spam-proofed e-mail address? :-)

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

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