When Wieber fantasizes about buying stuff for his yard ornaments, money's no object. Recently he said he'd consider buying some $600 motorcycle jeans. Exactly what he needs for all that iron-butt long-distance hard-charging typing he's not so good at.
BTW, in case any real motorcyclists are reading, I recently added an Airhawk seat pad to my ride. Highly recommended. Wieber could talk about using the same tech on his chair if he wasn't too busy talking about his 2 million miles of scooter riding.
My approach is good tools in the shop and assorted cheap ones from bargain bins and second-hand stores in the vehicles and outdoor sheds. If I luck onto a good used one the others are demoted. The lowest rank is lawn equipment tools that might be left on the ground.
I use the vehicle kits for normal maintenance to be sure they have what's needed, and any failures will be in the driveway.
I'm essentially retired, but in the late 60s, back when "foreign car" meant something and shops that worked on N. American marques shunned them, I worken on foreign cars.
Perhaps half were Volkawagen. The remainder included Borgward, DAF, Alpha Romero, Panhard [1], Fiat, Mercedes, Porsche, Renault, Amphicar, Lancia, Saab, Volvo as well as a very heterogeneous mix of British [2] cars. Never saw a single Japanese car. (College town, y'know? Lot of eccentrics and we were the only folks who could work on their eccentric cars.)
Now, 50 years on, I don't recall exactly which bolts or nuts were 14mm but my 14mm 1/2" drive socket and my 14mm boxend & openend wrenches show a lot of wear. Valve adjustment screw locking nut on 60s VW engines? Yeah, I think so.
The only specific item I can think of just now is a locking bolt on my
4" metal-cutting bandsaw. But all that wear came from came from the auto work.
Of course, all the cars I worked on were made before you were born. Maybe some standards or conventional choices have changed.
[1] I actually owned a 2-cyl air-cooled flat-opposed, front wheel drive Panhard for awhile. Very cool car. Would like to have ralleyed it. Swapped it even for a McCulloch chain saw.
[2] Yes, I even have a few Whitworth wrenches, solely because of Whitworth nuts on some Brit starter motor power cable studs.
Likewise - I was about the only mechanic in town who'd work on a bug - or an austin, or a borgward, or a vauxhaul (other than the GM dealership who had one guy who worked on them), Datsuns, and Toyotas.
I left town to work at a Toyota dealership, then returned to work at the new Mazda dealership (also AMC/Jeep/International Trucks)
I drove an old Mini in the early years.
Nope. The valve lash adjusters on Beetles from '54 to '77 for sure were 13mm. I think my '49 was as well.
Depends on who you are talking to ----
My dad drove a 3 cyl 2 stroke DKW Scnellaster for a while, as well as an Envoy CA. My older brother had a Vauxhaul Victor Special and a Viva HA, as well as a Rover 2000TC, as well as the R12 Rallye car. Younger brothers had Sunbeam Arrow coupe, Sunbeam Minx/arrow sedan,and a few other oddities, while I had the '49 beetle, Peugeot 204, Vauxhaul HC Firenza,and even drove a Sunbeam Alpine for a while, as well as a TR7 and an MGB. Lots of "european" cars - along with some Japs and a whole handfull of 'merican iron going all the way back to a '28 Chevy National Landau.
No, but there are 14mm heads on the bolts on his imagined backhoe he uses to dig the imaginary graves for the imagined murder victims that he shoots in his fantasies of being a big bad man rather than the old, sickly, out of work, bum that he really is.
Is this one of your imagined $100 an hour projects? Where you make all the imagined $1,000's that you talk about when in reality you can't make enough money to pay your $100 tax bill.
Rather than gunner's ass wouldn't it be more honest to label yourself "Lying Weiber"
Are you possibly confusing bolt torque with tool capacity? That sounds more like thread limits than tool limits to me.
The actual tested loading is probably 9x your GASL. For manual tool use, I generally use the tool I know will not break for that use. When I feel an extension flex, I move up to the next size. It seldom happens, but why take the chance? Breaker bars are pretty much the only tool I use which will be pushed into that flex mode. If I know something is tight but easy to move once it's broken free, I might take both 1/4" and 1/2" drive sets to the task. I'll break 'em all free with the 1/2" ratchet/breaker and spin 'em off with the 1/4" ratchet, spinner, or 3/8" air ratchet/butterfly.
The problem is that more and more sets of things are poorly designed, and others mimic the first mfgr, so the only thing available is a badly put-together set. Buying extra sockets to fill the set is a given nowadays.
I bought some Chiwanese extension cord ends from a US source recently and was seriously disappointed. The connectors were neither marked nor color coded (unsafe for the normal DIYer), and one of the screws stripped out as I tightened the shell together evenly around the plug. Amazon gave my money back. The last sets were Chiwanese from HF and worked great.
The knockout punch set from HF was taken back immediately. I think someone made the threads with oversized taps and undersized dies, so the fit was close enough to be classified as a sink drain. A 1/4" drive would have stripped it. I checked 1 or 2 more there at the store and they were all made that way, so I chose not to accept a replacement.
I've seen cheap brooms collapse at the first sign of heavy sweeping. The handle was apparently made of 29ga steel.
I used to follow my motocrossing friends on the mellower track in my '62 Corvair convertible. It flew nicely with the 100# sandbag in the front. Fond memories.
If you look at it logically, the 2 sides are opposite, so the middle one will be at odds with one or the other, so it doesn't matter which way it goes, belt or receiver. So, they made the middle one a different size, one side getting two receivers. It was probably a legal decision so the button was on the correct side for the passenger, facing away from them, and preventing overlap which would lead to one undoing the other's belt inadvertently.
Before putting the Fluke away I measured the voltage drop of 10.0A DC through a 50' 14 AWG HF extension cord I just bought, in case I would be risking a fire by running an air compressor on it.
The spec for 14 AWG is 2.5 ohms per 1000', so 100' should drop 2.5V at
10A. It measured 2.78V which isn't far off and includes the loopback end contact resistances.
When I first saw the thing and its quality (or lack thereof) I checked the terminals with a magnet to make sure they weren't dipped steel. Luckly, they weren't.
Well ... in the kit which I have, which comes with a ratchet with both 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive (what drive sizes are used in metric countries?), the 1/4" drive sockets go up through 12 mm, and after that in 3/8" drive are 13 mm, 14 mm, 15 mm and 17 mm.
Also -- things made in different countries tend to favor different sizes -- Japanese is different from say French. And who knows when you might need to make something for which 13 mm is too small, and
15 mm is too large. Maybe not a nut nor a bolt, but perhaps something for adjusting something's orientation or position.
Because I have not seen the "problem" as a problem. My original set was individual components, not neatly boxed, up through 19 mm with
3/8" drive. I like no gaps in my sets, which makes my first set preferred over the boxed set (which also includes fractional inch sizes as well as metric sizes, FWIW.) For that matter, 8 mm and 16 mm could be skipped in a mixed set, as 5/16" and 5/8" are a close match.
Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious" job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench from China (about $40 US)
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