I used to dive VW Bugs. I really liked those cars. I would just beat the crap out of them driving fast on dirt roads and had to give up driving them because I abused 'em so much and it got expensive. The Bugs used almost all odd number metric sized fastener hex heads. My tool kits for these cars had 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19mm sized sockets and wrenches. When I started driving japanese cars I had to make sure I had even number metric tools. So I get where you are coming from. Eric
OK. You guys have got me on the 14mm socket thing. Never saw that coming! B ut now explain this: I have two little kids. In all of the cars I have owned in the last 20 year s except one, there were seat belts for three passengers in the back. The r eceiver for the center seat belt and a side one were adjacent and visually nearly indistinguishable, but not interchangeable. The inconvenience of ha ving to get the belt around a child seat and blindly find the seat belt rec eiver is in itself a chore. Getting it wrong on the first try and having to fish for the other one is just punishment. There is absolutely no reason f or a bias. The receivers mount right next to each other, and can easily be overlapped during use. Explain this one to me.
The old Honda tool kit wrenches in my collection are 8 + 12 and 10 +
-jsw
the dust in 1981. Since then it has been VW, Saab, or now I am a real sucke r for Alfa Romeo. Still... All tools, machines, bikes, pretty much every he x head I have experienced here in Europe, uses 10, 13, 15,17, 19, etc. I ow n lathes, table saws, milling machines...not to mention bicycles. Never see n a 14mm hex head. But I haven't owned a Toyota!
Eric, yes, I started my VW experience with an '82 Rabbit. Never was there a car more fun to beat the shit out of!
But now explain this:
ars except one, there were seat belts for three passengers in the back. The receiver for the center seat belt and a side one were adjacent and visuall y nearly indistinguishable, but not interchangeable. The inconvenience of having to get the belt around a child seat and blindly find the seat belt r eceiver is in itself a chore. Getting it wrong on the first try and having to fish for the other one is just punishment. There is absolutely no reason for a bias. The receivers mount right next to each other, and can easily b e overlapped during use. Explain this one to me.
I've had the same issue. Finally, I wrapped a piece of masking tape around the one that was for the middle-seat belt. Frustration solved.
Nope. But what we really want to hear about is the aerospace. Any 14mm on the rockets you work on?
Where do you and the dogs sleep amongst all that alleged stuff? The Amazing Wieber and the Sheraton Caravan remind me of this.
I experimented with my Bosch 14.4v Impactor (1/4" hex drive) and a
13/16" (metric equiv: 21mm) socket and successfully removed my F-150 wheel. That's 90 foot pounds of torque to install, usually up to 120ft/lb to remove. I'd say that 1/4" can handle a 14mm socket's demands, although I did put a twist in an HF 1/4hex-3/8square adaptor once building a porch. Those 1/2"x8" galv bolts going into 1902 wood beams under the house were tough, even though I drilled pilot holes. That took the larger of my drills to accomplish, but I got the holes drilled and the ledger board installed properly with the impactor. The adaptor twisted about 20-degrees from the repeated hammering. Wow!
Sorry, clare, but you're flat wrong. I was taught by my father to properly use and care for tools. It was reinforced by my schooling at Universal Technical Institute.
Most of it was hand use of 1/2" sockets and ratchets. I think I did lose a 3/8 extension once, but it was for a lost ball. It wouldn't keep the socket on it.
I wore out the 1/2" ratchet, and when I replaced it, I was given cheap Chinese crap. This is when Searz first started sourcing Crapsman tools offshore, circa 1979-1980. My toolset was a decade old, and most of the steel was good. But once they wore out or broke, the replacements were all shit. I was driving to Searz twice a week sometimes. The crap sockets would split cleanly in half with a POP. Ratchets would lose their teeth and I'd lose knuckles and red stuff. I wasn't abusing tools. I was abusing myself by using what Crapsman got when it changed tool sources.
As do I. I've worn out a couple 3/8 and 1/4 ratchets, but lifetime guarantee is lifetime guarantee. I had to fight the tool managers and store managers over some of them, but I always showed them the square drive socket ends and NEVER could they see power tool abuse on and of them. I worked for a body shop and did a lot of tough jobs regular mechanics wouldn't. When I worked on the A111 rack, I used hand tools on the suspension to prevent damage to the wheel sensors.
And some of the stuff I replaced was from wear. The problem was that when I wore something out at that time, it was replaced with stuff so cheap that Harbor Fright would never deign to sell it. I often talked the managers into replacing the 12pt sockets with 6pt (the 3rd or 4th time), and I guess they were made either with real steel or by another mfgr, as I never had to replace them again.
Unreal! How did he manage that? When I first got my pneumatic tools, I was told that the chrome sockets would not hold up to them for long, so I bought specific impact sockets and extensions for the heavy stuff and the sockets I most often used with the pneumatics. But I still used the chrome sockets with the butterfly 3/8" and air ratchet and had no trouble.
You got lucky and never broke anything while they were sourcing shit. I think it cost them so much the first year, they quickly resourced and got real steel tools after that, because my problems finally stopped. But I'd lost a shitload of skin and blood over it, and I'm still mad as hell at them for it. I also sourced replacement tools from SnapOn (still cringing at the prices), Cornwall, and MAC.
Oh Holy one ... are you saying you NEVER EVER used a screwdriver to - for instance - pry the lid off a paint can ?? As far as an example , the oil drain plug on my '99 Toyota 4Runner is
14 mm .
Why? Years ago, perhaps decades, you rescued some old motorcycles from the scrapyard. If you haven't done anything with them by now then you never will.
Elaborating on your scrap pile does nothing to prove you work on motorcycles.
LOL Carry them to where? None of that crap has ever moved because you're too busy online, pretending, instead of working. Any 16 year old with a licensed moped has managed what you cannot.
Boy, LOTS of stuff on my Honda and Toyota cars are 14mm. Oil drain plugs come to mind, but a lot of the mid-sized body fasteners are also 14mm.
Jon
14 mm socket to remove exhaust nuts on Toyotas - your 1/4 drive set would never stand up to that. Every 10mm bolt on every japanese or Korean car ever built uses 14mm heads. (JIS standard)
Between all the standards, there are no 9, 20, 23, 25, 26, 28 or 29 mm hex heads . All the other sized are used.
ANSI and ISO use 7,8,10,153,16,18,21,24 and 30. DIN uses 7,8,10,11,13,17,19,22,24,27 and 30 JIS uses 7,8,10,12,14,17,19 and 22
OIverlapping the belts can affect their strength. The center belt HAS to connect to the proper attachment to meat the engineering specs. The only way to assure that happens is to "bastasrdize" the one connector
That is an IMPACT load, not a steady torque. Take your torque wrench and a few adapters, and adapt down to 1/4 drive and try torquing the wheel nut to 95 ft lbs.
The "generally accepted safe load" on a 1/4" drive is 300 inch lbs - which comes out to about 25 ft lbs.
Snappy has a 9 inch 1/4 drive ratchet that is apparently good for up to 90 ft lbs. That will put a LOT of twist into a 10 inch 1/4 drive extention!!!!
You meat WHITWORTH. There are quite a few places they are available - Koken (out of Japan) Eurotech, ToolZone,Sealey, lots of others.
I'd buy Kokens if I was in the market - available at Lowbrowcustoms.com, Amazon (They also have Sealey),E-Bay has lots too. They don't usually come cheap though - - -
I think that like Craftsman, Snappy got a bad batch - something wrong with the alloy or the heat treat - Likely they put together a cheap set as a "starter set" and it didn't stand up.
I'll bet there was only a short timeframe when the craftsman stuff was really crappy.
I'll bet Ken is still really pissed at Snap-On too.
I bought a fair bit of Herbrand tools in later years (sadly they are gone now too) and some SK and Proto - only a very few of the grossly overpriced snap-on (generally specialty stuff no one else had when I needed it)
It's nobody elses fault but his own that he bought a JIS socket set to work on DIN standard or ISO/ANSI standard vehicles.
Normal Person wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Cheap tools are not necessarily bad, and expensive tools are not necessarily good. My approach is to buy the highest quality tools that I can afford.
I remember some years ago a mate mentioned that a German expression referring to a useless thing was calling it a 17mm spanner, he is a fluent German and French speaker so I found that odd as my German Metabo angle grinder uses a 17mm spanner for the spindle which seems to be the standard for European angle grinders with a M14 spindle thread.
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