Tool rolls for wrenches?

Ive finally worn out my HF and HD tool bags. I use 2 bags..one for ASA, one for Metric tools and both have sprung leaks as the seams
ripped out.
So I was thinking about making tool rolls, for end wrenches, drifts and punches etc etc.
Anyone have any opinion on the ones from Home Depot?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bucket-Boss-27-in-Wrench-Roll-70003/205070665
Or should I hit a fabric store and buy a couple yards of heavy canvas and sew up my own?
Anyone make their own? Hints and tricks would be appreciated.
And what weight canvas/material should I get?
I carry tools as a service tech..so Im banging them around in the back of the truck for a lot..a lot of miles
Thanks!
Gunner
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On Tue, 13 May 2014 03:47:15 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

The advantage of this method is that you can make them up for your tools as needed and are not stuck with so-so rolls that aren't what you want.
The hard part is finding a machine that will do the sewing, especially where straps are concerned. If you can get them cheap enough, old domestic are okay. Use leather needles. Get the heaviest/strongest thread you can, otherwise you'll have to resew a few years down the track when it wears out.
I've hand driven a domestic that just wouldn't punch through, but it is better than hand sewing.
Basic design is to make them about twice the width of the tallest and sew one size with pockets and the other side flaps over the top to stop them falling out when rolled up. The pocket width need to be half the circumference AROUND the tool +10-25% otherwise they won't fit in. Screwdrivers can have a central strip to take shafts and alternate either side. Easiest is just a waist band with two rings/D's at one end and strap at the other. Different coloured/colored canvas makes it easier to work out which is which, especially if grease/staining is around.
Try not to let them get rattle around or you'll wear holes in them fast.

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Gunner Asch wrote:

I sewed up a piece of heavy canvas into a roll with several pockets . Left a top flap so stuff wouldn't fall out , and the pocket stitching is shorter at one side for the smaller wrenches . Ridden in the saddlebag of my Harley for 30,000 miles now ... the thing I like about a roll over a bag is that everthing has a place , so you know right away if you left a tool out . My roll has a full set of box/end wrenches from 1/4 to 15/16 , set of deep sockets with extensions and ratchet , pliers , ball end allen set , pliers , screwdriver w/interchangeable tips . All in a package just over a foot long and about 8" diameter .
--
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Gunner Asch wrote:

I'll have to check it out this afternoon. I've been carry the bike tools in plastic snap lock boxes but I'm going to mount a tool tube and a roll up would work better.

If the HD is any good, I doubt you'll get by for less than $10 doing it yourself unless you want custom spacings.
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there's not much to lose there for $10.

If you want the project and can sew that stuff.

If you make your own, add some useful feature everybody else is too lazy to add like some handles (has nobody really though of this yet?), and maybe an extra flap so nothing falls out the top, or some extra pockets in the dead space for little wrenches so you can fit another row of them.
I prefer those klein canvas puches for small tools, but the only problem is you can't see if something is missing like with a roll.
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Cydrome Leader wrote:

http://bucketboss.com/products/general/organization/tool-roll/ (Amazon.com product link shortened)
The Ergodyne is 5 bucks more than the Bucket Boss on Amazon ($17.86) but has more positive reviews. There are other Ergodyne models that are also well rated.
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Gunner Asch wrote:

That might be pushing it. iirc, any open end set I've gotten that came with a roll only went up to 1 1/8. Amazon does let you ask questions and they email people who have bought the item to ask if they can answer. I've answered several questions about dimensions where the product description was vague.
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no photos of the things unrolled is sketchy.
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On 5/13/2014 4:47 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Shoot, I'd just skin me up a liberal and use some metal snaps to seal the ends up...
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Gunner Asch wrote:

Make your own.
Don't bother with a fabric store. Hit a farm store and buy a wagon tarp. (real canvas usually treated to keep rain out, MUCH cheaper than fabric stores) Use what you need for tool rolls off of one end and you still have a good canvas for covering stuff.
While there pick up a grommet kit for the tie laces. Now hit a thrift store and buy a few REAL leather belts. Try to get ones that are the same thickness leather. I generally grab the wider mens belts. (As a bonus look in all the belts and see if you can find a braided leather belt to cut up for leather tie laces)
Now drag out a machine and sew up your tool bags.
For normal wrenches and such simple sewed pockets work just fine. For tools that are sharp/pointy take a belt and sew it with the finished side against the canvas as a wear preventer.
If you want "fancy" edges hit a glass shop or home store and buy a roll of the foam window screen spline. Sew that into the edge with a rolled seam.
--
Steve W.

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typed in misc.survivalism the following:

    Sounds like variations on oil cloth, or "waxed cotton" (I've been researching that stuff with an eye to patching a wore Outback duster.)

    That is neat. I'm saving it to The File.
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pyotr filipivich wrote:

Similar, Outback coats are usually No.10 duck canvas. How old is your duster? Outback has been known to trade for new if yours has enough "character" to be used as a testimonial store piece.
I need to drop some weight so I can get back into mine. It's an Outback packable, about 25 years old now. Still in great shape though.
--
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typed in misc.survivalism the following:

    I've had it umm ,... 7 years - it was second hand when I got it.

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pyotr filipivich.
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On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:47:15 AM UTC-7, Gunner Asch wrote:

If you don't sew your own, it'll be a bad fit for the tools.
Maybe one layer of canvas (the outer shell) but you'll want to get some more-flexible material (I'm thinking of a wool/nylon blend that was real cheap one day at Boeing Surplus...) for the interior and pockets. It'd be good to have cloth tape for serving all the ragged edges, too.
Small parts can go into a soap dish, scribes/knives into a toothbrush case, and they'll fit into the roll.
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I used pig skin and deerskin remnants from Tandy leather. The leather is very thin and flexible. I've hand sown them with a sinew needle from Tandy. I finally got a *little* smarter and tried sewing with SWMBO's Sears machine using a heavy needle and the biggest Fireline fishing string I could fit through the eye. Worked great and saved my fingertips from the needle. My homemade tool bags have banged around in service vehicles for more than thirty years. I've restitched some pockets because I didn't make them big enough. Lately, Tandy has gotten awful proud of their leather, but the remnants are still pretty (relatively) cheap. Good luck Steve
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On 5/13/2014 11:09 PM, SnA wrote:




I didn't know they had super lines 30 years ago, a few Pike escaped while I was saddled with mono.
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Tom- You're right! I have been using Fireline for so long I used it generically to name all fishing line. I used the biggest braided fishing line I could get through the needle's eye. BTW, I have lost numerous pike myself. Sometimes I was using Fireline. The wily critter would get between me and a buried branch or rock. I'd have to cut the line 'cause he snagged me good. Unless he can chew through a steel leader, I'm sure he's still there. Steve
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On 5/13/2014 6:47 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

My friend is a violin maker and he made tool rolls from leather...30 years ago. They are still perfect.
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Tom Gardner wrote:

Leather works great but these days it's $$$$ for good stuff, unless you hit a thrift store and get lucky to find a good leather duster or riding jacket. (I buy some furs and hats there, LOT'S of fly making material in a rabbit fur hat!)
--
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wrote:

My mother made a couple for my dad using pillow ticking but I dobt that this material is even available nowdays.
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