My uncle has a tiller he pulls behind his john deer. My dad has a Mahindra tractor. We would like to use the tiller with the Mahindra. He says the arms on the tractor wont go back far enough and the drive shaft on the tiller is too long or short. Is there a way to make this work?
I do this sort of work all the time. If you'd like to send some pictures and specifics, I'd be glad to help out. You'll need access to a good welder and metal saw.
Changing the length of the PTO shaft is for the more experienced welder. Changing the location of the hookup pins isn't very difficult.
Before you do all this make sure the other tractor has enough hp. tillers are real hp. hogs. I've heard one hp. per inch of width is a bare minimum.
So much depends on the type of soil. I use a 48" tiller behind a 25 HP Kubota and till up to 8" deep in sandy soil. If I try to till sod or really hard soil, the tiller just bounces. I need to add weights. Paul in Redmond, OR
All of this "depends". What model John Deere does the tiller fit? Do you know if its a standard Category 0,1, 0r 2? Does the tiller need to go on both tractors or just the new one? If so, I'd modify the tiller and leave the tractor alone. Also, do you know if the new tractor is a standard Cat
0,1,or 2 ?
Often, my first step is to locate the implement exactly where it needs to go behind the tractor. Then measure exactly how much longer/shorter the PTO shaft has to be. Do the same for the lift arm pins, but you need all three dimensions here - higher/lower, in/out, forward/back. Then you'll need to visualize how to make the part to move the pin where you need - I often mock up a trial out of plywood - its easier to measure twice than to build twice.
How does one go about lengthening the PTO shaft? I assume you weld on a new piece, but I also assume the whole shaft has to remain the same diameter its whole length.I further assume the torque on the shaft is going to put major stress on the weld.
So how do you get a weld that's strong enough for the application? Do you reinforce the joint with a collar or key or what?
--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr.
The PTO shaft from my Ford 9N is like all the others I have seen. The shaft is made in two sections that telescope. The way one tube drives the other is through two "ears" that run the length of the shaft. The "ears" look like they are formed by squeezing the tube in a die that's a smaller dia than the tube. When squeezed the "ears" extrude out the sides. Anyway, there is a splined shaft coming out of the tractor and a female splined socket on the pto shaft. At the other end it fits the bushhog which also has a spline. The spline socket is welded to the end of the shaft. So an extension could be welded in the space that you would get if the spline socket was sawn off and pulled a distance from the shaft. Hope this explains it. ERS
--RC "Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr.
Now you hurt my feelings . My older tractor is 60 years old. My new ones are from the 70s.
Try to find out about the three point category standard on each tractor. Nearly all tractors are built to these specs. If your tractor is for example, CAT 0 and the JD is Cat 1, we'll need to make an adaptor. Or, these are for sale.
Just go to your local farm supply or TSCO and have a PTO shaft made up to fit the Mahindra to the tiller. Standard job, not that expensive. Just be sure the RPM output on the Mahindra is compatible with the tiller.
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.