What is it? #131

According to R.H. :

O.K. Posting from rec.crafts.metalworking as usual.

792) It looks like one variant on chem lab hardware -- clamps to allow mounting two rod supports parallel to each other. (Others mount them at right angles, or at variable angles, as well as ones which clamp the necks of Florence flasks, test tubes, and the like.

It is obviously made from an aluminum extrusion purpose designed to be cut into many of these.

793) An adjustable height support -- and a jack which would be a bit awkward to use for any significant weight.

Pressing the two sharp points towards the center should allow it to be slid freely up and down -- decoupling the jackscrew from the outer frame.

If you adjust it to near height, then put a significant weight on it which needs to be adjusted up a bit more, it is done by sticking a rod into the holes in the knurled knob just below the top plate, and using the rod to rotate the jackscrew. You'll have to shift the rod about every quarter turn, so it is not very good for a large range of adjustment.

Note that the threads on the screw are buttress threads, instead of normal V-threads.

Based on the size, it is a cute little device.

794) Hmm ... is that wood? If so, I will guess that it is part of a nutcracker. 795) Is the end of this one hollow? If so, I would call it a punch for making holes in leather -- perhaps with a spring-loaded snap in the increased diameter part.

If not -- there are hints of a hex shape to the end, which would make it a long extension Allen driver.

I don't see a retaining collar, so it may not be possible to change the bits -- otherwise it would be a more general purpose screwdriver, depending on which bits were installed.

796) What that looks like is a vibration reducer for something supported by steel cables or perhaps even chains. The curved groove would be filled with rubber, so there would be some give.

It looks quite old -- old enough to put it back to the time that rubber vulcanization was not yet widely used, thus the hardening with age.

797) The carefully selected angle of the photo suggests to me that there is another hole, of larger diameter, in the upper span of the wood.

It *could* be only part way through, but deep enough to allow the bottom of the golf tee to clear the lower span, and then be tipped forward or to the side away from the view.

Or -- it equally could be all the way through, thus making it easy to lift the tee all the way through and remove it (or reverse that to install it).

*Or* -- the hole in the bottom span could be larger in diameter between the upper and lower ends of the known hole, thus allowing the tee to be tipped once it has been lifted a bit. This could include a hole from the "back" (the upright) to give it the freedom of motion needed.

Now to see what others have posted.

Enjoy, DoN.

Could it be to press rows or columns of type together in a standard sized "box"?

Are the holes near the knurling such that you could insert a round rod to tighten the screw? I can't tell if they are holes or set screws.

In 767 the wood is soaked and the top part is compressed by clamping until the tee can be inserted, then the clamp is removed and the wood returns to its original shape.

It's been a few weeks since I found this, but now that I think about it, the seller might have said it was an old printers clamp, which would possibly work as you describe. I've done some searching but haven't found anything similar yet.

Yes, there are three equally spaced holes so a rod could be used to tighten it.

Rob

This answer certainly makes sense, but why would anyone design in the notch between the two screws? The notch seems to be a stress concentrator that would lead to failure. Perhaps it was designed by a NASA space scientist.

764. Hard to say with no scale given. Is it as small as, say, a ball point pen? 767. The top part was soaked and squeezed in a vise, then soaked again and allowed to expand after the tee was inserted.

John Martin

Actually, the expensive tools GM sent out were Kent Moore. KD were available at the parts stores for reasonable money and worked quite well.

762. Not going to guess 763. Not going to guess 764. Ballpoint pen end w/out the ball 765. I agree w/the carb tool 766. I agree w/the fire detection link (thats what I thought when I saw it) 767. I agree w/the steaming (thats what I thought when I saw it)

According to Alexander Thesoso :

Perhaps just to reduce the weight. Since if it is being applied to already live wires, it will need to be positioned by a long insulated pole with a hook through the eye on the clamp screw.

The notch is rounded enough to be not much of a problem -- and I don't see it being in service for long enough to worry about that as it is apparently applied.

Enjoy, DoN.

Dave

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For poor boys who had no dwell meter, you closed the points until the engine stumbled and then opened them, I recall 3/4 turn. Extra points for definitive answer. Anyone remember?

Andy

--Andy Asberry recommends NewsGuy--

Yes, I remember the tools, and the Radio Int. Shields.

The play was to adjust the uniset points [ points + Conedensor together, in one semi serviceable unit ] until the engine ran rough, than 1/2 turn until it smooths out. you could use an 1/8" [ I think ] Allen wrench, or buy the special tool that had a round dial, 1/2 white 1/2 blue with numbers, once the engine ran rough, remember the color and number, than turn tool until other color number appears. A dwell teach was preferred, but the dial tool was an excellent backup. The Uniset Points had no provision for gapping with a feeler blade.