Why is parts washing solvent so expensive

Forgot to add that I have one gallon of Simple Green in there. I added it right after the last discussion here. It seems to work pretty well. A little slimy feeling, and it cleans my hands good, too.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
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I gave up the stupid practices of my youth. Gas as a cleaner was one of them. I knew two men who were horribly burned from youthful experiences with gasoline.

YMMV, and you probably would use anything.

Now, back in the bin with you.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I have two of them right now (not that I need two, just happen to have two at the moment).

Well, one tank is about 20 gallons, and another is 50-80 gallons... I guess the big one will have to go.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus13208

Oh, yes, I have a question that is very related. I have a Graymills

800-A parts washer.

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What will hapen if I use it with aqueous Simple green or some such solution? Will it work? Will it rust completely? Will it work okay, but perhaps not as well as with petroleum solvent?

I do not personally like petroleum solvents, their fumes give me a headache. Add to this fire and EPA and price, and you would see why I am looking for an alternative.

If I can use what I have (Graymills 800-a) with aqueous solvents, I will be happy, even if cleaning takes a bit longer.

Has anyone tried it?

I will call Graymills on Monday.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus13208

"Ignoramus13208" wrote

That would be decided on by how much you use yours. And by the rule that if you get rid of it, you will need it within a week. I use mine very seldom, but when I do, I'm glad I have one. And for $15 at a yard sale for a Snap-On, how could I go wrong. If I never use it, it makes me look SOOOOOOOO professional in my shop. ;-)

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Yep, Snap-On does give that snobby feeling...

One of mine is a Graymills.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus13208

get some freon 11. whoops... the EW's had that banned except for nuke plants use.

John

Reply to
john

The good news is that you can sell the big one to pay for solvent for the little one.

-- Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power. -- Seneca

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Kiss my ass, honky! ;)

-- Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power. -- Seneca

Reply to
Larry Jaques

My parts washer is homemade from a 15 gallon drum with a kitchen sink bolted to it. I use an old 12vdc gas pump submerged in the tank by an old coathanger. Solvent is 10 gallons of diesel fuel. Fuel that is too dirty to clean any longer is pumped into 5 gallon gas cans and delivered to my oil change place where it is dumped into their tank of mystery oil.

Took several years of scrounging to get all the parts, but I'm frugal and patient.

technomaNge

Reply to
technomaNge

#2 heating oil in 5 gal buckets is a lot cheaper than kerosene bought in individual gallon jugs

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT

Diesel starting fluid in a spray can kicks ass bigtime

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT

Sounds like a nice one to me. Hmmm.

Elijah

------ even has a spare kitchen sink already

Reply to
Eli the Bearded

...

What do you mean by "too dirty to clean any longer" ? Seems like some settling, followed by screen, cheesecloth, and coffee filter paper would get almost all dirt and grit out of the mix. I don't know how much of a problem dissolved grease and oil is, as far as cleaning effectiveness; is that where the problem is? Or is it more of a "too dirty to mess with anymore" problem?

Reply to
James Waldby

I had pondered that point, too, then remembered my high school chemistry about solids and solvents. An increase in some of the solvent levels could affect the whole solution. Particularly liquids that tend to stratify and separate. And then there's the ph factor to be considered. And the flammability of the whole thing as it changes from pure diesel fuel to a mix of many things. Carburetors are cleaned occasionally, and a build up of gas could occur. And a very large explosion can be had with a very small amount of gasoline evaporating into the air of a closed shop, and then the compressor kicks on with a spark at the contact points, and ............. I do not know if the diesel fuel would keep the aromatic gas from offgassing into the surrounding air, but I wouldn't want to bet a whole shop, and the windows a block around on it.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I mostly clean VW engine parts with the diesel. An acid brush or an old toothbrush will get into the tight spots.

But the exterior crud washed off is old oil and sandy crud. Interior crud is carbon and metal shavings.

Eventually the diesel contains too much oil and won't cut it anymore.

If I had a diesel engine of some kind, I would do extensive filtering then put it to use. But I don't, so I won't do that much work.

I forgot to mention: Don't let the pump sit on the bottom of the barrel. DAMHIKT.

technomaNge

Reply to
technomaNge

My parts washer is a 55-gallon drum with a disc of flat steel mounted about 14 inches from the top. It is held up by 3 small bolts extending into the barrel radially. The pump is a good submersible 110V pump made for the purpose, Grainger-sourced I think. it sits about 1/2 down the barrel, with a flex spout on the outlet coming through a nothc in the plate. The lower third of the barrel is straight water, with Kero or diesel on top of that. Any heavy insolubles settle out and down into the water, never to return. That diesel was coming out milky the other night. I bet today it will be crystal clear. No messing with inline filters etc. So far I've used it about 10 years and have not done anything except top off the solvent with whatever was cheapest at the time. Currently, that would be diesel.

Reply to
Rex

When I had a motorcycle shop in the mid-70s, I had a contract with Safety Kleen. It was pretty cheap, and they would just come and swap the (20 gal.) tank once a week.

Reply to
rangerssuck

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