Regulator leaks

Dec 25, 2003 4 Replies

Happy Christmas Everybody



I have a question regarding the regulator on my LBSC Juliet. I acquired the loco partially dismantled and with a new regulator assembly (the old one had seized).



The new regulator is not as per the drawings but is a simple screw and a tapered cone valve. However when it is closed I can still just about blow through it. Is this going to be a problem?



I've been running it through my mind and sure it will leak a bit but if the reversing lever is in "neutral" with the exhaust port covered surely the steam chests and cylinders will just pressurise and sit there.



So should I commission a new regulator or use the existing one? And if I can find somebody to build me a new one would the original "disc valve" be a big improvement over a screw tap?



Many thanks for any input. As you might have guessed I'm new to the game!


According to the man himself,

"In small models, the screw-down type of valve may be considered; this type of valve will not stick, if made of the right type of materials and handled properly, and it will not leak steam."

The main reason for disc or slide valves is the difficulty in getting a large enough opening quickly, while maintaining fine control with a tapered pin. (Plus you don't need a left hand thread for it to work the "right way round")

I would have thought that your valve is faulty, it is bad practice to start off with a leaky valve. As you say, on a tiny engine it probably won't be a problem, but I would get it fixed. It isn't difficult to make a tapered valve that shuts off properly.

BTW is you engine the one I saw on eBay a couple of months back?

Thanks Martin. I'll see if I can't do something with this regulator then. If it works I like the idea of the simplicity of the screw valve.

If I make another valve up without the thread I ought to be able to lap the seat. Then if I close the proper valve a few times with some paste on the end I might just get a seal. Nothing to lose before commisioning a new one.

And yes. It's the little Juliet with a saddle tank. There's a bit of play on the bushes of the con rods (? the rods between the pairs of wheels - sorry haven't got the terms yet) but everything else feels good. I've aquired a mechanical lubricator to rig up. Other than that I just need a safety valve, a pressure gauge and a few fittings from Reeves and I should be in business.

Makes a nice change of pace from usual hobby of flying RC helicopters!

They're called "coupling rods". The "Con(necting) rods" are the ones that connect the crosshead end of the piston rod to the crank pins on the driving wheels.

Are you fitting a mechanical lubricator because there isn't a lubricator fitted or replacing a displacement one?

Classic Sales wrote:

snip

I see. Hence crosshead pump! I thought it might be so named as the water is pumped across the head of the pump.

This is going to be as bad as boating. I've had boats for over 10 years and mine still have pointy bits and back bits!

I'm fitting the mechanical lubricator because it did have one, although it must have at some point as there is another eccentric on the front (bet there's a name for that) axle. The water pump is driven by an eccentric on the rear axle.

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