Removing small roll pins

I need to remove some small roll pins (1/16" and 3/32") and am unable to think of a simple, non-brutal, method

So far I have failed to remove a 3/32" pin with punch and hammer but this may be due to my reluctance to use too much brute force. I have not yet attempted the 1/16" pins because they are currently inaccessible (at least with punch and hammer) unless ...

... wait for it ...

... I remove some small roll pins and a couple of interference fits that I was hoping not to need to disturb.

Reply to
Mike H
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Dont know .. I've had no trouble using this home made punch

the bit on the front goes inside the roll pin so keeping in from distorting ..mushrooming etc.

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All the best.mark

Reply to
mark

In message , mark writes

Many thanks for that but by the time you get down to my sizes (1/16" and

3.32") it is almost watch-making. I have had to make a sleeve to stop the drift bending.
Reply to
Mike H

Reply to
James Lugsden

I find the punches bend if you apply repeated inadequate force, as opposed to one whack of the correct power. The smaller roll pins do tend to give me more strife than the larger ones 'cos I'm loathe to apply the required force to start them moving. I find a carefully used pneumatic hammer (yes, really!)reduces the amount of potential damage, with an appropriately shaped bit.

Reply to
Duracell Bunny

On or around Wed, 24 Jan 2007 07:45:42 +1000, Duracell Bunny enlightened us thusly:

See, there really are only 200 people on usenet.

I agree, a single smart whack with the pin and punch nicely aligned works best.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

In article , Austin Shackles writes

Oh yes.

Always assuming they *are* roll pins and not taper pins going the wrong way... ;^)

Reply to
Nigel Eaton

I mostly lurk here, mopping up the gems of information like a sponge. It's not often I can contribute as there is some pretty impressive knowledge here - I'm strictly an amateur engineer, I've made a few steam engines from Stuart Turner casting kits but any time-served fitter would roll their eyes at some (?most?) of my work! But always keen & willing to learn, Austin!

Reply to
Duracell Bunny

I think this might be because if you're not successful, you have to strike more blows, and so there's more chance of striking the punch with an off-axis blow, which could cause it to bend. There's also the fact that if you're unsuccessful, you're going to get frustrated, and so might not be so careful.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

One of my frequent tasks is the removal and installation of small roll pins. If you are going to deal with small ones, frequently, spend the money and buy a decent quality roll pin punch set.

They have a concaved end, with a nipple in the middle, purportedly to keep the end of the pin from mushrooming. Sometimes it works out that way, too.

I deal with a lot of munged up 1/16 inch size roll pins, an end up drilling many out. A selection of small drills, and a decent drill motor are a requirement, as is a light touch.

Driving roll pins with a 1/16" punch is a fast lesson in applying hammer blows in a straight line with the punch and pin, else the punch ends up much too short, or much too bent.

Cheers Trevor Jones

Reply to
Trevor Jones

This might be a good application for a slide hammer type device. In many cases having the force directly in line makes a big difference.

Don Young (USA)

Reply to
Don Young

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