Spindle Moulder

Bear in mind that most timber profiles needed for door and window frames are available at good builders' merchants and DIY sheds. This, together with a good old molding plane, such as a Stanley 55 (with

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "There *must* be an easier way!"

In article , Chris Edwards writes

Kevin,

Chris has a good point.

For relatively narrow mouldings you can get very good results by using a router on a stand at a quite reasonably price. I have used a 1/4" Elu MOF 96 in this way for many years, but it can only take cutters up to about 1" diameter. If I were starting afresh I would get a 1/2" router, and one with speed control. With commercially available mouldings for the larger stuff (architrave, skirting board etc) I think you should be able to handle most things.

The Stanley 055 (or Record Equivalent) option is interesting, though the second hand price is likely to be similar to that of a decent 1/2" router. I don't think Stanley or Record make them any more, and although I think Clifton (or some other manufacturer) might do so, you would probably find the price was a clenching job.

If you do decide to go down the self-built spindle moulder route, remember (or be aware, if you didn't know) that the French nickname for them is "bouffe digite" (finger eater). The reason for this should be obvious, so make sure you provide decent guarding.

David

I don't know what the secondhand market is like in NZ but in UK ebay would be the place to pick up a used spindle and cutter blocks.

A spindle is arguably one of the most dangerous machines in the woodworking shop so if you do DIY pay attention to guarding.

Bob

Too true! An Uncles father in law is short of quite a few digits due to a wadkin spindle molder.

Wayne...

Don't even think about just using a couple of screws to hold the knives in place. All the currently legal blocks have either pins, serrations and wedges or a combination of these that will hold the knife in place even if the screws come undone.

As you will no doubt be hand feeding the timber you will also need matching limiters for each knife profile, these stop the knife taking too big a bite and spitting the wood back at you.

You will also need a means of raising & lowering the spindle and it will have to be well ballanced as you will need about 6000rpm and probably more as your little 50mm block will have a low periferal speed.

Jason

Do it the safe way and lay out a few quid.

Shipping to NZ might jack the cost up a bit!!

Keep up!

Bob

Personally I would go for a large router like the Triton TRA001 and a table , it's more versatile than a dedicated spindle moulder. The router can be used by hand as well as table mounted The range of cutters available now for routers is enormous and readily available on Ebay . Visit the Aussie woodwork forum there is a wealth of knowledge there regarding jigs and fixtures to use with the router.

also this forum

Thanks all, as usual some good advice. It seems a router and table to fix it to would be the best option -and the most flexible. The Triton

Regards Kevin