Fin Alignment Guide

Does anybody out there own a Estes Fin Alignment Guide and have the instructions that they can scan and post? I picked one up at an estate sale that I believe is incomplete and I want to find out what I am missing.

Thanx

Al

Reply to
Al Gloer
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Metal or Plastic?

(probably plastic, but just asking...)

-Fred Shecter NAR 20117

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Reply to
Fred Shecter

Paper please.....oh, that wasn't one of the choices? ;-)

Mark Simpson NAR 71503 Level II God Bless our peacekeepers

Reply to
Mark Simpson

Speaking of fin alignment guides, I've made one for HPR under 4" dia bodies. I made it out of billit 8620 steel and had it ground so it'll align fins within .001" over 12" the thing rocks. I was considering selling it, I'm getting more into my rc helicopter since all this problems with the engine avil. It weighs abit but would probably would be great for a club.

Russ Wizinsky

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Reply to
Russ Wizinsky - ProfessorWiz

I have the plastic one.

Thx

Reply to
Al Gloer

I have them right here. If you'll just fax me a scanner, I'll scan them in and e-mail them right back to you. You do have that new 3-D fax machine, don't you? Otherwise, I could probably mail them in an envelope this weekend. Or, just ask your questions and I (we on the group) will answer.

-- Eric Benner TRA # 8975 L2 NAR # 79398 Secretary, ICBM - Tripoli SC Secretary, ROSCO - NAR section 648

Reply to
Eric Benner

There is a 13mm tube that looks a lot like a mini engine casing (in fact, I replaced mine with a mini engine casing when it started showing wear) that goes in the center hole on the base of the jig. Then there is an 18 mm OD tube that slips over that and a 24mm OD tube that slips over that. If you mean what I think by stickers, they are to wrap around the various cardboard tubes to provide a smooth surface and get a snug fit.

The four plates can be slid under the tabs on the base plate in two orientations. If the side marked "1/8" faces the arrows marked "FIN" on the base plate, the jig is set up for 1/8" inch thick fins. If the side marked "3/32" faces the "FIN" arrow, the jig is set up for 3/32" fins. To do 1/16" fins, set the jig for 1/8" and use a 1/32" shim between the fin and guide plate.

There should be four plastic clips to hold the fins snug against the guide plates. That's all I can find and I use mine regularly, so I think that is all that was ever there. Be careful when slipping the guide plates under the tabs on the base plate. I broke one of those tabs and can no longer install all fins at once. I have to install all of the ones for which the guide plates can be installed and then rotate the rocket so the missing fin lines up with a good guide plate and attach the last fin.

Larry

Al Gloer wrote:

Reply to
Larry W. Hardin

Al, My plastic one works this way.

the parts consist of two plastic circle bases with nipples to hold body tubes, and one plastic angle iron with slots in it. You set the body tube in the sized nipple of the plastic base and mark dots at the bottom of the tube for the fins.

you set the tube in the angle iron and can slide a slider that does little up to the end of the tube to hold it still. You then mark lines on the tube using a pencile in the slots cut in the side.

you then find a "v" shaped cut in the angle iron. You put the lines on the tube one at a time under that v. use a fin and put in that "V" and align on the tube. If everything looks ok, glue the fin on , using that v to rest it while it dries, or if using CA , zap the ca while in the "v".

clamp the tube in the angle iron with a rubber band during this.

rinse and repeat for number of fins.

I have sen no stickers or little tubes with mine.

Now, does anyone have a base to the old estes fin jig? Green plastic jig with four side pieces ? I have the sides that you clamp the fins to, but need a base to mount them on.

Reply to
AlMax714

I would be happy to as soon as he types a mailing address on the message.

His questions, however, have been answered. Besides, if he e-mails me a photocopier, I can use that for all kinds of things. A Konica model 7065, along with a few other household items, is the basis for a great time machine.

-- Eric Benner TRA # 8975 L2 NAR # 79398 Secretary, ICBM - Tripoli SC Secretary, ROSCO - NAR section 648

Reply to
Eric Benner

Len,

I've been thinking I need to do just this for a Centuri "Vector-V" (5-finned) clone... and upscale. Even considered making 2 identical ones and connecting them in an attempt to make sure the "lengthwise" (i.e., body tube) alignment was correct.

Haven't tried it yet, though...

Thanks again!

--Jay Goemmer ("Centuri Guy" resurfaces as "ScramJet," thanks to copious amounts of spam)

Reply to
Jay Goemmer

Hey, I tried to fly a D12-5 once, didn't fly worth a darn. I guess I should have put it in a rocket first.

Seriously tho, I haven't flown anything bigger than a D engine either.

D> Hello,

Reply to
Don Magness

I think the largest non-professional rocket launch used an "S" class motor. Nowadays the only limit is how much you can afford. There are a few guys who regularly fly clusters of M motors. At our local launches there are lots of single M motor flights.

The largest motor I've personally flown so far was a Reaction Labs L911, way back in 1989. One of these days I plan on building a Level 3 rocket to fly on a hybrid M.

Reply to
RayDunakin

The largest publicised in Tripoli circles, but they tend to ignore the outside world.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Irvine

Here's a recent period:

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Reply to
Jerry Irvine

Large modrocs and high power can be done pretty cheaply with a little effort. You can easily build an inexpensive launch pad that can handle rockets from A to K size. Reloadable motor hardware can be a bit expensive but the reloads are cheap. You can get an H reload for about $15.

Reply to
RayDunakin

Reply to
Zorfox

True, but it's a lot less than the "$100" you mentioned.

Reply to
RayDunakin

Its significantly cheaper per total impulse, or for liftoff weight. For instance,

D12-3 $10/3, 20ns, 112gms, ~390gm total liftoff weight G-64 $10/1, 118ns, 151gms, ~1240gm total lifoff weight

For the D12 you pay $.50/ns, for the G-64 you pay $.08/ns. For the D12 you pay $0.025/gm liftoff weight, for the G64 you pay $.008/gm liftoff weight.

True, the G64 weighs more, but you'd have to use 8 D12's to equal a G, so you lose on that end, too.

Bigger is better and cheaper, in most cases.

Mark E. Hamilton NAR #48641-SR

Reply to
Mark Hamilton

Why do you waste money on those huge A-D motors. MicroMax is the only cost effective way to launch rockets. And they're not a threat to our national defense.

Joel. phx

Reply to
Joel Corwith

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