Whoever put their website together is an idiot! The text is all black on a black background, so the only thing you can read are the occasional bits of hypertext.
There's also no visible email address, so I can't even contact the guy. But it looks like this timer requires a PC to program it, so it's of no use to me. Also I'd rather not use a G-switch for activation.
website looks fine to me with explorer ! infact it's a pretty attractive website
Looks fine to me. Black text with white background, pictures and yellow link boxes to the left.
Maybe whoever configured your web browser is an idiot ;)
Patrick
Looks fine to me.
Also looks fine to me. IIRC there is a setting in IE to show a white background as a default view.
-- Best regards, Mark Daughtry, SR Ignorance is bliss unless you are surrounded by it. Ignorance is like bad breath: You usually don't know you have it. NAR 71556 SR L1 MSRS Vice-President NAR Section #550 MSRS #0035 SR
I'm getting a black "main" background and text, pictures, yellow boxes, and a blue bar on the left side with yellow boxes. Scattered through the text area in the black background are blue hypertext links. The only way I can read the main text is by selecting everything, then it shows up against the lighter "highlight" color.
In any case, it appears that this particular timer does not suit my needs.
My browser is already set with white background as the default.
Ray might be using an AOL browser.
I highly recommend this device. I've used it for my Pencam and it works great.
It looks fine to me, and always has. White background, black text, nice pictures, links in yellow boxes on the left.
robnee at hotmail dot com should work
Actually it requires a dumb terminal to program it. But no one (but me!) still has a VT-100 in their basement, so folks use a peecee with a terminal emulator. The "programming" is simple, just adjusting the parameters to meet your needs. You could always use it the way it comes without changing any of the defaults.
Why not?
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!
Unless they have one that works on a Mac, I can't use it.
Don't know if the defaults would be of any use to me.
Waiting for launch movement means possibly missing some interesting/informative shots on the pad. Besides, I don't trust G-switches, and a simple on/off switch is much easier to test and verify.
X-serve has a serial connection :)
Back to the future :)
I have one in the works. It is an interval timer like you were looking for. Going through a bit of a re-design. But allas it uses a Windows program to set the times and other features.
What would be an optimum solution for setting the timing interval?
RDH8
Maybe a little box with a keypad and display that plugs into the onboard unit (some sort of serial link to reduce cable/connector size)? That way anyone can program the thing without needing a computer w/terminal emulator to do it.
-dave w
I'm not sure, my knowledge of electronics is pretty limited. Maybe dip switches?
How about a tiny pot so that you can "turn it"
hook it up to an LED so you can see it "flash" ?? then Adjust pot till you get the desired time interval.
I would think this would work great.
what would it cost for you to make me a tiny one that can take 3v (so Ic an run it off the camera's batteries) with an interval of 3 seconds.
and how small would it be.
thats all I want. I just want it to "complete" a circuit (like pressing the button)
Chris, That would cost $20 and would be .6in x .4in Time would be adjusted by connecting it to a serial port on a computer.
The output is a mosfet to ground. If needed this could drive a relay for a switch contact.
could you get it below $10 if I just wanted a FIXED time without the ability to reset.
I just want to turn on the camera and then flip the switch on this circuit and have it simply start taking pictures. Nothing else.
Send me an e-mail you can reply to this message the address is valid.
Of course, you need to know 'how' the camera button works... some actuate little levers... others are just normally open switches.
You don't mind taking the camera apart, do you? ;)
About the cheapest you can get (if you want to build it yourself) is using an IC, the 555 has been one of my favourites for years. But it needs at least 4.5 volts though...
Joe seems to have a pretty good handle on cameras...
I'd program a PIC microcontroller (16F84) to fire a darlington driver... and I'd also probably want a delay, or have an input to the PIC to tell me when launch has been detected before taking pictures...
Cost would probably be less than $10, you'd learn a new skill (the 16F84 only has 35 single word instructions)... and heck... it's got all those other input\output pins one could use for so many other rocket type things! ;)
sure but when making a "kit" its different. making 1 sure making 50-100 of them. that something different. Need to keep the cost low enough to keep the price low enough for people to actually buy it :-) hehehe
I am going to look into all of the info you gave below. 3v is important since that is what powers the camera. 2 N cells will power the whole thing etc..
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