Rip-stop nylon stitching question

Pretty simple for flat chutes, just hem the edges (unless you use a hot cutter that seals them adequately).

--tc

Gary,

The important thing is to not *overstich*, as this can weaken the nylon in the area of stitching. Think of the perforations in a piece of paper. If the needle holes from stitching are too close together, they create the same situation in the nylon.

Also, use nylon thread. Much better strength and less fuzzing than standard polyester thread.

Kevin OClassen

Do you have a "stitches per inch" or stitch type recommendation?

The only "tech" info I could find was on Nakka's site and he was using a different canopy material (nylon fabric vice rip-stop).

Thanks,

And use "super sharp" needles not "ball point" needles.

Dave

Straight stitching, probably 12-16 stitches per inch, for zig-zag a little tighter, probably 16-20 per inch. These work for me. YMMV.

I've never actually sewn a flat chute, so I'm not sure what I'd recommend where. For complex chutes (12-24 gore) I use flat feld seams, straight stitching, and a rolled corded hem around the perimeter. I use flat chute lines and straight stich them to the canopy, then zig-zag the length of the attachment. I've sewn a couple 80" Vatsaas square chutes from both ripstop and coated ripstop, and the only addition there was nylon tape.

Kevin O

Thanks, Kevin, I appreciate your time.

This is practice for real gore panel chutes. For now, I'll be hemming, stitching flat shroud lines to the canopy, and doing some over canopy shroud lines. I want to do an x-form drogue as well. All in the pursuit of L1 and electronic dual deployment.