FS595 and Olive Drab

I've skimmed the discussions in this thread and the same themes come up whenever disucssing colors. The consensus is that there are MANY different things to think about when matching colors.

Some of these factors include:

Finish (gloss vs. flat) Standards (FS 595) Scale Effect (reflectivity) Lighting (outdoors vs indoors) Fading (weathering) Paint Manufacturer

Here's a few things I've found useful for matching colors.

1) Use GE Reveal Lightbulbs: General Electric produces a new type of light bulb sold under the product name "Reveal". These bulbs create a light that is a "white" light as opposed to the yellowish light created by ordinary bulbs. This really makes a noticable difference in how the paint color looks in your basement workshop. They're a little more expensive but they're worth it and are readily available at most supermarkets and discount chain stores.

2) Use a Color Wheel: I used to be scared to death of mixing colors because I had no idea how to do it. One of the guys in my IPMS chapter, who was a professional modeler, gave a lecture on mixing custom colors. He introduced us to a simple device called a Color Wheel that can be purchased in any art supply store for about $5. It graphically shows what the results of mixing colors are and how to lighten and darken colors. For example, to lighten a color, I always assumed that you would add white to it. But if you use the color wheel, you will see that adding white to red, for example, does NOT give you a lighter red, it gives you pink instead. By looking at the color wheel, you will see that adding yellow to red will give you a lighter shade of red. A color wheel is indispensible for mixing custom colors.

3) Lighten up: Unless you are building a 1/1 scale model of an item fresh off the assembly line, using the standard FS595-matched paints directly from the bottle will be too dark. Lighten the colors according to scale, lighten more the smaller the scale. Full-sized aircraft, for example, reflect a lot of light outdoors and appear lighter in color.

4) If it looks right, it is: In the end, if you use the correct FS595 colors and the finished model does not look right, you've failed. The effect you want to go for, IMHO, is: "Wow! That looks exactly like the real thing!".

My $.02

Martin

Reply to
Martin
Loading thread data ...

You forgot the 50's TT precursor to FS, the WWII ANA standards, the prewar "standards" which really weren't.....

Mostly BS in what's published......at some distance it's going to look silver from reflection or a grey that is almost black. True 1:1 colors are often very wrong looking on a model but you DO NOT add just white.....you add a neutral grey to tone it down. That said some colors don't respond well at all to this, Angel Blue comes to mind, just go with what's in the bottle from Model Master (either enamel or acrylic). OD's also don't like the grey, in this case a little and I mean very little yellow ochre with a touch of grey will work. Yellows, reds and oranges take a very gentle touch with the greying. Once you get into car colors and metal flake/pearl I don't think there's much you can do.

I prefer a mix of diffused flourescent (I use a daylight GE bulb here) and indirect halogen with some good window light as well. I only mix colors during the day so I can get this mix of light. I don't like the Reveal bulbs at all.

There's something even better, Liquitex puts out a book with color charts and lots of text. I got one at Micheal's for $12. Most art stores that carry Liquitex will have it or can get it.

Not lighten, grey......see above.

Doink, there's the idea, if it looks right to YOU the builder!

Reply to
Ron

snippage

I was told by a professional artist many years ago that for model work you should match all your colors under sunlight. He was teaching color photography at the college at the time and one of his demos was the effect that different light sources had on a basic color film. It was really instructive to see the same subject photographed with the same film but under different types of light sources. I do all my color matching under a couple of fluorescent tubes bought in a tropical fish store. They are tubes designed to match natural sunlight.

Bill Shuey

Reply to
William H. Shuey

in article snipped-for-privacy@starpower.net, William H. Shuey at snipped-for-privacy@starpower.net wrote on 12/6/03 3:19 PM:

Good advice and true. For color matching I use an Ott light that, while not very powerful, gives a true white light. My wife gave it to me and she bought it at a sewing shop.

MB

Reply to
Milton Bell

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.