I hate painting Yellow

Mask off the area to be painted yellow and spray a base coat of a light grey, which should give you the coverage you need.. Then spray successive thin coats of yellow over the top. Don't be tempted into putting lots of yellow on, because it will only run. Just be patient and build up the yellow gradually.

A white undercoat works well and then use thin layers of yellow until it looks right. That's what I do.

I always use a white undercoat for yellow and red paints as they usually seem to be transluscent, alternatively if its a gloss yellow finish your trying to get, then use a matt finish paint first as they tend to cover better and then use a gloss yellow for the final coat.

Happy modelling Ant

White undercoat before painting on the yellow?

Pat

I've found acrylic yellows that have good coverage, but a enamel yellow that covers well in one coat over anything other than white is something I've been searching for for decades.

Pat

Thanks... was talking about brushing on... but will try the suggestions...

It is very difficult to brush paint white, yellow, and clear colors Best to airbrush to get an even coat over the primers the group have suggested. For very small areas, acrylic colors available at craft stores can do a decent job in picking out gages, tubing, formation or i.d. lights. Humbrol if mixed really well will do a good job as well as White Ensign HTH

Bob

Undercoat with white first, then spray yellow over it.

Don't give up yet!

The first section in Squadron/Signal's "Applied Modeling Encyclopedia" shows a build of Revell's ancient 1/72 Polikarpov I-16 which is entirely hand painted in Spanish Civil War colors. The photos show a brush application of yellow, purple, and red stripes over a green base color and they look TERRIBLE in the first photo. However, as successive coats are applied, the colors take hold and become opaque. I actually duplicated this build with an old Revell I-16, only I applied the kit's original Russian colors, which includes some yellow, by hand brushing Humbrol enamels. The first coats of all of the colors (base and trim) looked really bad and streaked. However, after applying a second or more coats (allowing at least 24 hours drying time between coats) the colors started to really look good and solid. So good, that some folks at the IPMS meeting I brought it to didn't believe it was entirely brush painted.

So the key thing with brush painting yellow is to apply a number of coats making sure that the previous coat is completely dry. Some folks also swear that by using red sable bristle brushes, you can reduce brush marks.

BTW: Squadron/Signal's "Applied Modeling Encyclopedia" is a

Martin

Starting with a uniform color for a base is essential. Using a primer such as aluminum, flat white or light gray to cover any putties or fillers that you might have used. Since yellow tends to be translucent; depending on what shade of yellow you are doing, a light color like flat white for a lemon yellow would be good. For a darker yellow a mixture of the yellow you are using as your final color mixed with a couple of drops of red brown and several drops of flat white. This helps give you a base with little to no transparency so your final color coat of yellow will cover evenly and vividly. Here is a link to photos of an all yellow P-51 build in progress

Things may be looking up in this area. Games Workshop have just released a new range of acrylic colours: "Citadel Foundation Paints". As the name suggests, these are intended to provide the base for the standard Citadel paints, which aren't renowned for their covering capacity. There are eighteen rather muted shades in the range, one of these "Iyanden Darksun" is a mustard colour which is intended for use under brighter yellows. The thing about the Foundation Paints is they are claimed to cover completely in one coat, even over black primer. I haven't had the opportunity to test this myself, but comments on the Warhammer n.g. suggest the claim is well founded, with complete coverage claimed even when diluted half-and-half with water. The Games Workshop Foundation Paint seems to be one of a family of new "liquid pigment" acrylics; I believe at least one other manufacturer ("PP"?) has a range. Games Workshop Paints are intended for brushing, which probably suits them to your needs: I have used the standard range both over and under a variety of other manufacturers acrylics before.

Regards,

Moramarth

I paint figures, and when there's something yellow to be painted I found a trick that has worked so far. Yellow, like white, is a difficult color to brush on. I think maybe its because these colors are much thinner than other colors, so most times multiple coatings are required. The yellow I use is simple Testors #1169 Flat Yellow mixed with some Model Master #1735 Wood. The MM Wood is a tan shade, but when the two are mixed together the yellow is dominant. The benefit is the MM Wood adds some extra thickness to the yellow, which in most cases has allowed me to apply with just one coat. Later, if I want, I can brush a light coat of straight yellow to lighten the shade, but the results have been very satisfying so far. Not sure if this would work for larger areas, but you might try it.

Randy IPMS 44765

We're living in a world that's been pulled over our eyes to blind us from the truth. Where are you, white rabbit?

still not sure how to get the yellow decals to look good over blue angel blue... how does one get opaque yellow decals over dark blue?

Craig

Buy two sets and apply one over the other? ;-)

Mask off the area where the decal will go before painting the blue, so that only a light-coloured undercoat lies directly under the decal?

Of course the more complex the outline of the decal, the harder this will be ... but it should work well enough for a basic roundel or rectangular shape.

Bruce Melbourne, Australia

I wonder if you could scan the decal, transfer the scan onto a sheet of white decal material via a printer, and then cut out a white "under decal" that would be applied first, with the yellow decal applied over it? That's basically how quality decal manufactures do it; by printing the decal in white, and then printing the yellow over the white.

Pat

2) paint white underneath.

well double decals would probably do it, but they cost more than the Revell BA kits I have. I have not taken cursive since 1967 and I am not about to start again with white paint on a model. The BA kits have been around for 40 plus years. What did you real old timers do with just one set of decals (way, way back in the day when this hobby was not so anal about everything....)

Craig