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Is it time for a new airbrush?

Hi

My airbrushing problems seem to have no end. A little frustrating to say the least. I own an Iwata eclipse ECL-4500 gravity feed and have had it for a few years.

The 2 main problems are:

1) I get splattered paint as soon as I press the trigger for just one quick burst then as I keep the trigger pressed no more splattering. If I stop and start again, the splattering resumes shortly and then I can go on. I have used 3 different bottle of paints from 2 different brands, same results.

2) The second thing I have noticed is my airbrush does not spray the paint at a large angle anymore (It is a double action), I just seem to be able to get very thin lines which are rich in paint.These lines would be great to do a cammo effect, but when you have a large body to airbrush it makes it long and tedious with sections heavier on color than others.

One thing I have noticed after taking and cleaning my airbrush apart

50 times in the last 3 days, is that the needle doesn't seem to go in and out as much as it used too in the past when I press the trigger. It isn't dirty I have soaked all the parts in ammonia 3 times recently and airbrushed some windex in there too. The needle is still straight (Not bent) as far as I can tell, all the parts seem to check out fine.

Have you all experienced at some point a decrease in your airbrushes operations for no apparent reasons? This airbrush is about 8 years old and have seen very limited use (About 2 models yearly.) I keep it in it's original box in a closed cabinet after each use, and clean it well.

I am just very frustrated, spending all my free time fighting the darn thing instead of modeling.

One final question: I paid $90 for my airbrush 8 years ago, and I see it now around $116. Where does my airbrush stand in the airbrush family? Is it a low end airbrush?Mid range?Or would you say more higher end? What would be a step up airbrush from this one?

Thanks for your help

Patrick

Reply to
varois83
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on 2/23/2008 1:42 PM varois83 said the following:

Iwata is a good airbrush. What probably happened is that the constant spraying of paint through it has worn out the parts. All paint has a grit to it which wears the parts down. Acrylics probably more than enamel. You might try buying new parts for it, like the needle and the nozzle parts. Depending upon the cost of those parts, it may be cheaper to buy a new airbrush.

Reply to
willshak

Agreed it sounds like a worn nozzle or needle. Or both. But a very thorough clean wouldn't hurt. Do you backwash after cleaning? Hey that sounds rude. I mean do you put a little cleaner in the cup, place a rag over the nozzle and then depress the trigger and pull back until bubbles appear in the cup? I get loads of crap out of my Iwata that way. You could also try removing the crown cap, air cap and nozzle, taking the needle out, then pushing it gently

*backwards* through the body of the airbush to dislodge the sludge in the forward part of the brush. Then use a fine microbrush soaked in lacquer thinner to get in there and clean it out. None of this will fix worn parts, but Iwata parts are pretty cheap if you need to go that way.
Reply to
flak monkey

Bill and Flak

No I have never done that, I will try it next time I use it this week.

You could also try removing the

Again very good tip which I will try.

Ok I managed to fix a few things myself. First I was using a brand of paint I never use "Polly scale" and after a final try with it again my airbrush got clogged bad. I threw it in the trash. So I took it apart again and took a needle and went really in that nozzle, well I got a few more little chunks of paint which seem to have been in there for a while. The nozzle cleaning and the switch of paint (I reverted to Tamiya my brand of choice) and a tip which I picked up on my Iwata direction brochure which said that "Splattered paint usually means your paint isn't thinned enough". So I went for a 50% paint, 50% alcohol mix and let me tell you it's not paradise but it has improved a lot. The splattering has been reduced by 75%. I managed to finish airbrushing my model main blue color and it looks good. I honestly believe the nozzle is/was the problem.If I could dip it into something stronger than ammonia which I usually use but it doesn't get well enough in there.Paint thinner or alcohol maybe?

I am going to clean it again using the tips you guys mentioned, if it fails where shall I go for new parts? I bought it at dixieart.com online.

Here is the model I am currently working on by the way (The auction and model are not mine, it's just the same I am doing.)

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Thanks so much for the help.

Patrick

Reply to
varois83

I don't think you can clean an airbrush just by flushing it through with thinners. I airbrush enamels, and I always finish each session by taking the airbrush (a Badger 150) to bits and cleaning everything with thinner and paper towel strips. Very thin strips twisted to wipe out the nozzle - thicker strips to clean the paint passages - soaked in thinner and followed by a flushing with more thinner. This is more important with acrylics because they set sooner than enamels. You can't be too careful in keeping the airbrush clean.

I've heard that cellulose thinners can be used to dissolve dried paint deposits, but haven't had to try that myself yet.

Reply to
Alan Dicey

Yeah that works. Disolves acrylics that are baked on. Crazy but true.

To the OP; I don't know where you're from, but as you bought your airbrush from Dixieart, I'm guessing US, so look here for a dealer;

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Another point; use the thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer. Lifecolor, for instance, doesn't get on with Tamiya (alcohol) thinner too well, especially the ones with blue pigments. Meaning most greys too. My experience with this combination has been clogging, spattering, lumps shot out the nozzle... you know. Seems to have got worse lately, at one time I used Lifecolor with Tamiya thinner no problem.

If you can't get the right thinner, or cost rules it out (Vallejo), try thinning with Future/ Klear. Crazy again. True again. Clean well afterwards.

Reply to
flak monkey

Paint too thick, air pressure too high or too low, nozzle and/or needle damaged and/or dirty.

Idem.

Check the needle tip with a magnifying glass.

Not without a good cause.

My Harder&Steenbeck Evolution is over 10 years old, it was used for over

60 models, and is still like new. I think you can safely rule part wear out, even an entry level Badger won't wear out that fast.

A Harder&Steenbeck Infinity is a step up from any airbrush...

Reply to
Serge D. Grun

Hi

Thanks for all the answers, this is what I have done and will do.

1) I just did a backwash for the first time and 2 or 3 tiny pieces came out of there. I will do that more often.

2) I took the needle and placed it backwards carefully inside the airbrush, nothing came out of there. I have been cleaning in there quite good.

3) Iwata recommends "Medea airbrush cleaner" I will probably have to get it mail order as none of my local art supplies seem to have it.

4) I inspected the needle tip with a good magnifying glass and it isn't bent as far as I can tell. But I noticed some paint build up on the tip, I cleaned it good.

5) I will get some lacquer thinner tomorrow and I will get down deep into that nozzle, I believe there is more stuff stuck in there even though I have cleaned several times.

5) I will buy a new nozzle and needle as a last resort.

Thanks to all

Patrick

Reply to
varois83

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