Making Rivets on the WB Electra

White glue is a better choice. Either way it's going to be a monumental job but this option would at least be a lot more forgiving of mistakes.

Hi Alan, I use old clock gear wheels, the wheels can be fixed in a homemade holder. I haven't tried using intant glue, instead I heat the gear wheel sufficiently to soften plastic and using a flexible guide, run the wheel along it. Practice first!

Brian of London

I haven't tried this yet but was considering removing ALL the rivets and applying the metal finish. Then punch holes in masking tape to represent rivets, apply the tape and spray a different shade of metalizing finish. "Painted-on" rivets.

Is the fit really that bad?

Curt

The rivets in question would be somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 inch in diameter. Multiply by 1/53 (the scale of the kit) and you get something that is no more than a third of a millimeter in diameter. They probably weren't flush-riveted, but the protrusion would still be less than

Mark Schynert

Thank you everyone for your responses.

And yes, Curt. I'm afraid the fit is that bad (and I've done several WB kits before Maybe I just had one from a bad run).

Many old MicroScale/SuperScale decal sheets came with strips of rivet decals. They were very small black (as well as some in white) circles. I have seen these used very effectively, especially when oversprayed with a thinned-down "tint" of the underlying color (to tone them down).

I bought a set of these for detailing the interior of a 1/35 Black Hawk. They work great.