Most Forgiving NMF

I'm reaching the time to put a natural metal finish on my Williams Brother's Electra 10.

This plane has taken a lot of sanding and filling, sanding and filling, sanding and filling (you get the idea). I feel that I have it covered well, but with so much work I know a natural metal finish is going to be very difficult.

Can anyone recommend the best most forgiving natural metal finish. Up to this point I have only done one model in NMF, the Northrup Gamma, with bare metal foil. It came out well, but I think the Electra would work best with a painted NMF (it has way too many curves for my skills).

Thank you for any help.

Alan

Reply to
Banshee741
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There are no forgiving products for nmf projects. Foil or paint is only going to look good if you have a smooth surface, which is the main reason why modelers usually choose a paint scheme instead. For painting, I would recommend Alclad products. They have a very good micro fill primer that will help some in preparing your model, as well as many shades of silver. No mixing required but for airbrush use only. Jack Mugan

Reply to
Jbm007

You could try a combination of NMF paints (I've never used Alclad personally but others have said it's pretty good) and self-adhesive foil.

Use the foil in the areas where you suspect or know there might be a minor flaw (nothing will hide a major flaw) and just don't burnish it down as hard over the flaw. This will minimize the appearance of things like file and sanding scratches as long as they're not too awfully aggregious.

"The world would be a much simpler place if every one could pick and choose their obligations, but we can't and we shouldn't." Major Charles W. Whittlesey

Reply to
Bill Woodier

I've found Alclad over a surface primed with Mr. Surfacer is best.

Art

Reply to
Art Murray

I vote for SNJ with all nmf the base must be meticulosuly preped as any flaw will show. I do not usualy prime however a prime coat will show the flaws allowing you time to fix them HTH

Reply to
shotgun

Most of the replys are for Alclad over Mr. Surfacer, so I'll try that.

I've picked up Mr. Surfacer 500, but never really used it (I'm a little confused about the proper use). Should I use the 1000 instead? And then I had heard that a gloss black must be used before the Alclad. Is this the correct sequence: Mr. Surfacer, Black Gloss, and Alclad?

Is the Mr. Surfacer thinned or airburshed directly?

Thank you so much for all the responses and help.

Alan

Reply to
Banshee741

Alan,

I use Mr. Surfacer 1000 and thin it with Mr. Thinner. However, any lacquer thinner should do. !000 is simply thinned Mr. Surfacer 500. Therefore, you'll need to *really* thin the 500. If you don't thin it enough you'll get "spiderwebs". It should go on smoothly. If you get a little rough surface, just lightly sand with 1200 grit sandpaper. I also buff it with a soft cotton cloth. Sometimes I even polish the surface with plastic polish or toothpaste.

Good luck!

Art

Reply to
Art Murray

Only if you are using chrome or highly polished alumiumn colors.

Reply to
Jbm007

I want to highly polish this aluminum...it appears to fit the pictures I have.

Of course, I'm working from color pictures of a well-restored aircraft, and Amelia's plane is in black and white photographs. But it looks in very good condition, and I imagine that it was kept in very good condition both for the trip and for the media.

Thank you for this information. I was curious about the gloss black, because it would also seem to help me in covering any imperfections. The plane is coming out great, but the filling and sanding (and filling and sanding) really makes me believe I'll never get the really clean finish I want.

Alan

Reply to
Banshee741

If you want a highly polished finish, the new Alclad spray cans produce a finish that must be seen to be believed. No primer necessary (other than to get rid of scratches) and just a light coat of Alclad are all that is needed.

Art

Reply to
Art Murray

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