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Photoetch newbie questions

Is there a FAQ for PE newbies? I bought the Eduard 1/72 Fokker E-V kit
sort of on impulse, and imagine my shock when I got it home and saw a sheet
of etched brass! Anyhow, some questions:
1. How does one form curves? I bollixed the pilot's seat back and don't
want to undertake to form the machine gun jackets without advice.
2. Sticking it together: CA? Epoxy? Solder?
3. Sticking it to the model: CA? Epoxy? Duct tape?
4. Painting it. Wash it first, of course, in soapy water, but after that
- enamels? Acrylics? Auto primer? Oils?
And what advantage is there to casting the gun bodies in resin rather than
styrene?
Anyhow, thanks in advance for your help.
Jim
Reply to
Jim Willemin
Loading thread data ...
Jim, You really don't need to be afraid of PE. 8-)
1.) Find a suitably-sized dowel, paintbrush handle, paint bottle, or whatever to help you form the right curvature for things such as seats, side consoles, gun barrels, etc. 2.) I use either gap-filling or slow-setting CA to assemble parts. 3.) I use either gap-filling or slow-setting CA to attach parts. I've heard (but haven't tried yet) of people using a clear-coat as an adhesive. 4.) I use enamels on mine with no probs, altho if the case is there, when I airbrush components I also use lacquers. No primer used.
I think the main reason resin is/was used for your MG parts is the finer and sharper detail you can get with resin as opposed to plastic.
HTH Don McIntyre Clarksville, TN
Reply to
Don McIntyre
i've used future or dull coat to hold them on and it works fine. you can do it with fairly large flat pieces too.
Reply to
e
plastic.
Question: I've used CA for PE parts, and I usually make a mess, so I'm interested in this future/dull coat option. How strong is the bond with future?
Reply to
Pauli G
pretty strong. i don't use it on parts that have stress or loads, but for holding a piece on a piece, it's great. i've never had a part just fall off or break apart. funny, because i have had ca glued parts just fall off. and i've had plastic glued joints fail. try it on some parts you ned to mount. i think you'll like the hold.
Reply to
e
,
advice.
parts.
So basically you take the PE part and mate it with the main part, and then run some future along the joint using a small brush (like a 0000)?
Reply to
Pauli G
actually i paint a bit on both surface areas to be mated, wait a minute or so for it to tack up and then join. i hold it for a couple of more and set apart to dry. simple, easy, effective. try it on some spare junk until you get the knack, use whatever brush or tool that puts it where you nee it.
Reply to
e
Others may differ--I find it unreliable. I use it only to attach non-load-bearing PE to clear parts like canopies, or occasionally for very small external non-load-bearing items that I don't want to risk gluing flat on permanently with CA after I lose control of them on the model. At least with Future, you can dissolve the stuff without damaging the finish and try again.
In all other cases I use gap-filling CA.
Mark Schynert
Reply to
Mark Schynert
And Mark Schynert opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@news1.west.earthlink.net:
Mark,
I know that "regular old" nail polish remover disolves CA, what IF anything would it do to styrene plastic, or resin?
Reply to
Digital_Cowboy
No effect on resin, same with straight acetone if used as a quick wipe on cleaner. I don't what would happed if you soaked resin in either.
Reply to
Ron

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