spraying kleer

time...woo!

Kleer doesn't need to be thinned to airbrush. A 3:1 (kleer : alcohol) mix thins it a bit and satins the kleer just a tad.

-- Chuck Ryan Springfield OH

thats i did a pure coat and it looks good, esp for my first time, i wasnt sure what alcohol to use.

Julian:

I am not familiar with "Kleer", but I am told it is very similar to Johnson's Future, which we have here in the States'. As others have said, out of the bottle it shouldn't need to be thinned. That refers to a fresh, previously un-opened bottle straight from the super market. I am in the habit of opening the big bottle and pouring a small amount into a paint jar for use on the work bench, much handier than the big bottle. I find that over a period of time it will thicken up sitting on the bench. If you have a old bottle that has thickened up, you can thin it with alcohol and water. I also have used "Windex" window cleaning fluid with good results. It imparts a slightly bluish color but that seems to disappear when it dries.

Bill Shuey

Thanks Bill. my bottle was old but went on ok, i will give another v thin coat then when hard decal it. im just getting used to the dual action airbush, all new to me.

Julian, I use a 50:50 mix of Kleer and isopropyl alcohol to spray with. I find it allows a gloss coat to be layered on with less chance of runs or drips. I have sprayed it neat too, but it stays wet longer. Boots Chemists sell isopropyl by the litre - most branches don't stock it, but can get it for you next day. It's also commonly used for cleaning tape heads Just don't ask for it looking like you need a drink ;)

Chek

thanks, thats a great help.

I did the Mig a nice coact of silver and green, but the Su22 the brown was really really thin and yucky. Used Humbrol enamels.

guess its just trial and error!

Except for the drying time, I think Humbrols are still my favourite paints. A formula based on a long ago Scale Models article by Peter Cook that I use is 50% paint, mixed with 20% white spirit, then add 20% cellulose thinner and lastly 10% gloss varnish.

The advantage of this mix is that the paint is exceptionally thin and touch-dries in a few seconds, with no grainy 'sandpaper' effect that spraying matt paints can give. The colour can be overlaid all in one session, and it also lends itself to both solid colour areas and pre-shading if required. I use 'raised-edge' masking to get softened colour edges.

The paint will appear to dry very rapidly, but allow to cure fully (at least 48 hours is good) before topping with a gloss Kleer coat for decaling. I also like adding Tamiya flatting agent to Kleer for a matt finish. It's a paste that can be mixed about 10% for a semi-gloss finish, or 20% for a dead flat finish. Hope this helps.

Chek

wow what a mix! will try it. At the mo im doing small 72nd planes, i need more jars!!

yes. i may try playdoh type things for soft edges but without the grease

i have some of that Tamiya matt. will remember that.

also i have some of that badger airbrush cleaner, at first i use a jar with thinners to clear it through then i blast in that badger stuff. is that right? i cant find the instructions anywhere for the airbrush

I had been using a jar to suck up the paint. i think my airbrush as that little cup thing. is there any advantae using tht?

I have just sprayed a humbrol metalcote for a nice shiny nose. looks ok but i want to buff it up. what should i use?

ta

If I'm spraying enamels, I've only ever used cellulose thinners to clear out afterwards. Maybe keep the Badger cleaner for those times you forget to clear up right away and you have to clean off dried paint.

I use a Sprite airbrush with the colour side cup, but sometimes for doing large areas I wish it did have a jar attachment. Jars are good for large areas. The cup is better for small areas as it feels more balanced and easier working around

3D 'features. As it is, I use spray cans for big - especially white - models.

Another handy tip is to wrap the airline once around your wrist to keep it away from the bench and the model. I also use stainless steel mustard dishes (condiment set type) for mixing paint in, and little clear polypropylene disposable eyedroppers for measuring mixes.

With the metalcote, I'd allow at least a couple of days drying time and then buff with a linen cloth. You can also further buff with a touch of aluminium powder for brightness, or powdered graphite to darken. A final coat of Kleer helps too.

Hope this helps

Chek