I've always used Microsol, but I noticed that the local RR shop has Solvaset as well. I seem to remember hearing that Solvaset is hotter, that it will work on decals that son't seem to respond to Micro-Sol wery well......
And how does the Testo's brand of setting colution compare?
TIA,
-Bill
in article snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com, RC Boater at snipped-for-privacy@remove.earthlink.net wrote on 10/8/03 12:53 PM:
IMO, Solvaset is the hotter of the two. Most of the people I know that use it, dilute it 50-50 with water.
I haven't used it in years but it once was my choice for very thick decals but I have had it cause decal inks to run in some cases.
MB
Solvaset is the hottest setting solution on the market - bar none. And it's my personal favorite. Since I discovered it I haven't used anything else.
I use Solvaset straigh out of the bottle, though I brush it on with an artist's brush after placing the with water. I suppose it gets diluted that way a bit, but I generally apply several liberal coats of Solvaset and "burn" the decal onto the surface.
I've developed a technique with it over the years that lets me apply decals directly over flat paint with no silvering. Works for me.
Solvaset is definitely hot. I've had good luck with it on all decals except the ones that come in Heller kits. If not diluted it causes them to shrivel up badly.
Bill
I've only used Solvaset, Champ's and Microsol so I can't comment on Testors. Microsol just doesn't have the power that Solvaset has and I haven't bothered to buy a new bottle since the old one was used up. I do dilute the Solvaset if I have doubts about the decal but I've found few problems. Don't try it on most Monogram sheets. Nothing works on them.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
: I've developed a technique with it over the years that lets me apply : decals directly over flat paint with no silvering. Works for me.
Share please!
This will sound like an elaborate PITA, but here's what I do...
Once the model has been painted (I use flat enamels) and has dryed about
48 hours, I'll give the whole surface a light going over with Scotchbrite and start the application of decals. I start by sliding the decal into place on a film of water as usual. Then I wick the water away with a tissue while bleeding Solvaset undneath it with an artist's brush from the opposite side. I make sure a good amount of Solvaset has replaced the water.At this point, I can still make minor adjustments to the decal's position by prodding it with the artist's brush - biggest lesson with Solvaset is that once you apply any amount of it do not touch the decal with your fingers again until it is dry. I can also use the artist's brush (I use a #1 round sable hair brush) to gently nudge the decal against the surface to set it into place.
Once the decal is "set" in place, I then apply a very heavy application of Solvaset over the top of it. At this point the decal will wrinkle - this is ok with good, thin, aftermarket decals; the wrinkles will settle out as the decal dries out - don't panic. I now watch for any large bubbles, which I may choose to prick with a needle to eliminate. I can again use the artist's brush (wet with Solvaset) to gently nudge portions of the decal onto the surface to help it into place.
I then let this get semi-dry...and again apply a generous coat of Solvaset. I may do this several times until I'm satisfied with the way the decal is settling. My goal is actually to keep the decal as wet as possible for as long as possible - "burn it into the paint", if you will. Once I'm satisfied I move on to the next decal and start again.
When all is done, there will be some brownish residue left from the Solvaset - I clean this up by scrubbing the area with a flat artist's brush and plain water. At this point the decals are about dead level with the surface and semi-glossy. I'll then let things dry another 24 hours, give the whole model another very light going over with Scotchbrite, and then a finish coat of Testors Dullcote - usually from a rattlecan, but I do also like to use Aeromaster Flat Finish from my airbrush...though I'm running low on it.
It's not unusual for it to take me a week or two to finish applying decals and final details to a large kit. Like I said, it sounds like a PITA, but this method has been working very well for me with Aeromaster and SuperScale decals - particularly with Aeromaster ones. The convincer was when I did my Monogram PBY-5 using the sub-chaser scheme from Aeromaster. The big aircraft modex number on it's side is "15"; that decal is about 1/2 clear carrier film. Without trimming the carrier I applied the two modex decals as descibed right on top of the flat paint and got ZERO silvering...none. You can't tell that the number isn't painted on; and the carrier film is invisible.
Aeromaster decals are the only reason I build anything in 1/48...1/32 is my true vice.
Actually, guys, *all* solvents work with *some* decals and *don't* work with others. Some appear to be organic solvent-based (Solvaset) and others are acetic acid-based (Testors). While I can't remember which is which off the top of my head, a few years back, Scale Auto Enthusiast did an article testing about 6-8 different solvents on different manufacturers' decals.
The results were set up in a fairly easy-to-read table that told you, depending on whose decals you were using, which solvents were effective with them. Most of the solvents wouldn't work on at least
50% of the decals tested, but two were standouts: Testors and Solvaset. Their formulae are so different that *every* decal on which Testors solvent wouldn't work was set by Solvaset - and vice versa! Therefore, with only these two, you could cover every decal on the (car model) market. As a certified Cheap Bastard (TM), guess which two were on *my* bench - with a copy that table hanging above it.-- C.R. Krieger (Been there; seen that)
Someone once told me that Solvaset was actually just thinned down vinegar...can anyone confirm?
If that's the case, you should be able to make your own in any strength you like. That'd be cheap...
Champ's definitely smelled of onions. I think you have to order it straight from them now but back in the '60s I found some in a small shop. It was my first setting solution.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
simple test, put a few drops in a little milk. if you get a mushy clump, it's vinegar.
Decal setting solutions (Micro Set, for example) are mainly acetic acid. SolvaSet, however, is a decal solvent (like Micro Sol). Different chemical altogether -- I think a lot of alcohol, but I could be wrong.
Also, just to toss in my 2 cents, the original question asked if SolvaSet is better than Micro Sol. I personally find Micro Sol hot enough for 95% of my decaling needs. I save SolvaSet for the occasional stubborn ones.
Pip Moss I used to feel cheap 'cause I had no signature.
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