Who makes a good KC-135 plastic kit?

Subject says it all.

Thanks,

Eddie Arlington, TX

Reply to
Ed Maier
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Revell's old 1/139 scale kit isn't too bad, and the Welsh 1/144 scale vacform is absolutely outstanding.

AMTech announced a whole series of 1/144 135 variants a while back but it appears that the company's gone TU. :(

Reply to
Al Superczynski

I've built several of the AMT kits, they turn out great but they are not for the beginner. They are particularly striking if mounted from a wall in a flying configuration. I've even seen some done with them refueling other aircraft something I hope to do with a B-52. There are some aftermarket accessories for these kits, I only wish they'd do a flap and spoiler set for them.

Gerald

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Reply to
Hawkeye

Thanks for your comments Al, Don, and Hawkeye. I had already started the Heller kit and was not too impressed with it. A main LG wheel half was missing, an alignment pin hole for the port side inboard engine was missing on the wing bottom, and there was a sprue block for one landing light lens. I found a resin wheel of the same size and used it, cut the pin off the engine pylon and simply glued the unit in place, and I'll use some 5/32" dia acrylic dowel flattened to a half-moon cross section to cut and fit into the wing for the landing light lens.

When I was applying the long "U.S. AIR FORCE" decal, I sneezed and ruined it. I bought a Testor's decal starter kit and made a new one and installed it per their instructions. It looked really nice. I noticed this morning, however, that the edges are beginning to lift. Does anyone have any hints on how to correct this when I do it over? (This kit will be a gift to a pilot friend.)

I retired a few years ago, ran out of "Honey-do" stuff, and just a few weeks ago got back into kits (Read: out-of-the-loop for thirty years). TIA for any help with the decal issue.

Eddie

Reply to
Ed Maier

Work the decals with more decal solvent, you may have to clear coat them once they dry and begin to lift off. You could use some Future as an adhesive..just us it sparingly. That should tack the ends down. I've built that kit as well, it was a bear from the get go. It was for someone else so I was glad to see it go once done.

I have several of the AMT kits on the stash shelf, I want to do one with a full interior, which I will probably do as a cutout. Spent many an hour loading -135s for deployment, loved those baggage bins and un-reenforced floors!

Reply to
Hawkeye

Thanks, Hawkeye. I'm not familiar with decal solvents, and what is Future? Tacking the ends down rather than starting over sounds like the way I want to go.

Thanks again,

Eddie

Reply to
Ed Maier

Decal solvent is a solution available at most hobby shops that causes the decal to snug down tight against the surface to make it look like it is painted on. Future is an acrylic floor wax made by S C Johnson Wax available in most grocery stores next to the mops and brooms. Your email doesn't identify your location, so if you are outside the USA we might need someone closer to you to provide names of equivalent products.

Reply to
Hawkeye

I removed the bad decal and started over. I printed a new one with an inkjet printer, bought a bottle of Future, wiped the plastic with alcohol and let it dry, wiped the plastic with a cotton swab dipped in Future, and immediately applied the new decal. It looks a WHOLE lot better.

Thanks for the great help,

Eddie

P.S. Here's a link to a pic of the decal.

Reply to
Ed Maier

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