At the club I belong to we run either DC or DCC depending on various circumstances. While running DC some club members *MIGHT* be interested in this capablility? Paul
-- Excuse me, I'll be right back. I have to log onto a server in Romania and verify all of my EBay, PayPal, bank and Social Security information before they suspend my accounts.
Working the rockie road of the G&PX
You're absolutely right about 400Hz being too low frequency to avoid any effect on the DC motor. I shouldn't post so late at night. Or at least I should have given the obvious answer, with involves lighter a book of matches :)
Dale
On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 11:18:45 -0800, "Jon Miller" wrote: Errr- that last post should have read "lighter _fluid_ and a book of matches". 17 days without a day off from work is starting to get to me :)
Dale
I have a German book from 1975 describing such a system. The frequency is 10kHz and filters are used in the supply of AC, to connect across DC blocks and in locomotives to prevent AC from entering the motor.
Jon=A0Miller posted:
I'd like to stay with DC for now but am open to hearing what DCC can do. Of course I'd still have to install a light system either way. Would the system on a DCC track require any extra components connected to the lights? And once installed and on the track (the caboose for example), I assume the lights could be turned on independently at the controller after, or without programming? And does the DCC solve the possible flicker problem or is that still a contact issue?
~Brad fd64
I'd like to stay with DC for now but am open to hearing what DCC can do. Of course I'd still have to install a light system either way. Would the system on a DCC track require any extra components connected to the lights? And once installed and on the track (the caboose for example), I assume the lights could be turned on independently at the controller after, or without programming? And does the DCC solve the possible flicker problem or is that still a contact issue?
~Brad fd64
fd64:
You can get a pretty good approximation of this scenario with more conventional power. I had a Tyco Plymouth MDT short out once on powered track that I thought wasn't. I discovered my mistake by following the smoke trail and wisp of burnt wheel center to one of its overheated tires. The tire went back on with some super glue, but needless to say it doesn't *quite* roll smoothly. :) (Yes, I still have this loco).
To those who are looking for wheel-wiper info, the current MR (or was it RMC? I forget which) has an article on making such wipers from Kadee no. 5 centering springs. Also...what sort of weather stripping do you get the phosphor bronze from that was mentioned above? I've never been able to find anything but vinyl and foam rubber.
Cordially yours: Gerard P. President, a box of track and some plans.
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