Magnification Recommendations

Nov 29, 2003 11 Replies

I recently tried drilling some very small holes on an HO locomotive. It is a Stewart FT, so it has the places for drilling pretty easily marked. I am having trouble eye-balling the spots, though, as they are very small, and so are the drill bits.



I recently purchased a Micro-Mark bench magnifier (#18104). While it magnifies things well, it is difficult to get the drill between it and what I am drilling. Also, I have to bend way down just to get it in focus right (which hurts the neck), and can barely keep in the correct range to keep it in focus.



I was wondering what others use and recommend for this task. I was thinking of one of the head-worn units but, there again, it has to keep me from having to bend over my work too much (the neck can't take it ). Any input would be appreciated!



Mike


I have never had any luck with those bench-mounted magnifiers (especially those with a built-in flourescent light) for the same reasons you mentioned. I use the "Optivisor-type", with a magnification level of 2.5:1. I can definitely understand the bending problem you mention - I still remember seeing the 1939 World's Fair layout!!!!!!!

Walt "Old age isn't for sissies"

At 46, my eyes are tending to let me know that they don't want to do any close-up looking. So, I saw at my LHS a product called Mag-Eyes. It's basically magnifiers that you wear like a visor, and can be easily flipped up and down. They are fabulous! I do all of my decalling and detailing with them. They are great for building Intermountain freight cars... and all this is in N-scale! Rich in NH

I'll put in another vote for Mag-Eyes. They have 4 different powers of lenses available, so look closely at the package to see what's included. Here's their site:

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Available at most hobby and craft stores, prices vary widely -watch for sales.

Val

*************************** Practice safe eating -- always use condiments. ***************************

I have some pretty severe myopia (my lenses have run in the +3.75-4.0 range), and at age 40, I can get away with bare naked eyeballs at about 8 inches. I mount the drill bit in an X-acto handle, and with that in one hand and the object to be drilled in the other, I'm good to go.

Jay CNS&M North Shore Line - "First and fastest"

Here's a Google Advanced Groups search for "magnifier OptiVisor":

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- or:
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The concensus seems to be for the Donegan OptiVISOR, in #4 (2x) or #5 (2.5X) - I believe you can get different lenses for it, a flip down loupe to add 2.5X over the lens set mounted in the visor, as well as a bright Xenon lamp visor mounted light.

Getting as much bright, full-spectrum light (such as an Ott Lamp) will definitely help with any job.

Sounds a lot like Opti-visor (also available in different powers). Opti-visor's patent must have run out.

FWIW, I use Oti-visor, and have two pair.

Brian

Thanks for the input! I will definately need to check out the Opti-Visors and teh Mag-Eyes!

Michael

Snipped..........

I would second the Optivisor...............

But to save the neck bend make a secondary working platform at a convenient height. Something out of MDF. Maybe 12" X 8". Two 8" X whatever, side plates to lift it up. Put a hockey stick beading around the edge to stop things rolling off. When that pin vice rolls off with a compass point mounted in it, it tends to hurt when it sticks in your leg. Else make a F-unit body (internal) width mount out of softwood and right angle it to a down leg into a bench vice.

I found that the wearing of the Optivisor over a longish period was giving me quite severe neck pains. So experience is a great teacher.

Regards

Len.

PS

If you are making your own handrails for the FT, then make a bending jig out of a piece of aluminium or brass. Drill the first hole away from one edge, just a bit wider than the required spacing, then with a triangular needle file, cut a notch in the edge, back towards the hole. Easier to make than to describe! Dead easy to use. Insert the piano wire in the hole and bend flat, then bend over the edge. Snip to length.

You can then do the 2nd, 3rd, 4th units easier! And paint them all on a piece of balsa wood, just push them in with a pair of long nose pliers.

When I work with the pin vise, I usually have the shell in the foam cradle that I believe Micro-Mark (or another model RR-oriented tool company) sells. Putting that on top of something, to raise it up, has crossed my mind more than once. Thanks fo the suggestion!

Mike

Len wrote: : : "Michael Powell" wrote in message : news:3fc913b0 snipped-for-privacy@news.iglou.com... :> I recently tried drilling some very small holes on an HO locomotive. It :> is a Stewart FT, so it has the places for drilling pretty easily marked. :> I am having trouble eye-balling the spots, though, as they are very small, :> and so are the drill bits. : : Snipped.......... : : I would second the Optivisor............... : : But to save the neck bend make a secondary working platform at a convenient : height. Something out of MDF. Maybe 12" X 8". Two 8" X whatever, side plates : to lift it up. Put a hockey stick beading around the edge to stop things : rolling off. When that pin vice rolls off with a compass point mounted in : it, it tends to hurt when it sticks in your leg. : Else make a F-unit body (internal) width mount out of softwood and right : angle it to a down leg into a bench vice. : : I found that the wearing of the Optivisor over a longish period was giving : me quite severe neck pains. So experience is a great teacher. : : Regards : : Len. : : PS : : If you are making your own handrails for the FT, then make a bending jig out : of a piece of aluminium or brass. Drill the first hole away from one edge, : just a bit wider than the required spacing, then with a triangular needle : file, cut a notch in the edge, back towards the hole. Easier to make than to : describe! Dead easy to use. Insert the piano wire in the hole and bend flat, : then bend over the edge. Snip to length. : : You can then do the 2nd, 3rd, 4th units easier! And paint them all on a : piece of balsa wood, just push them in with a pair of long nose pliers. : : : : :

I have both the lighted-ring-magnifier and the Magnivisor 'glasses-visor' units.

Like you, I find it near impossible to work under the ring-light magnifier. There's not sufficient working distance, and the whole thing is too big and clumsy. It's great for inspection, however.

The Mangnivisors work for me. I have several, of differing strengths, depending on what I'm doing. I find the #3 and #4 lens plates to be the most useful to work with. The #10 plate is again for inspection, as it has a very short working distance. The lens plates are 'wedged' to aid in converging your eyes to close distances ... reducing eyestrain. The hood cuts out extraneous glare and reflections from the back surface of the lenses (unlike reading glasses).

The hood is roomy enough to permit wearing either regular or safety glasses 'inside'. Hence you can combine the effects of normal reading glasses with those of the Magnivisor if required or desired.

Dan Mitchell ==========

Michael Powell wrote:

Re: To clarify my earlier post of a few minutes ago ...

The units I use actually are the "OptiVisor" brand. I find them highly satisfactory. I got to calling all these devices Magnivisors years ago, when that was one popular brand. I don't think the true "Magnivisor' is even made anymore ... I haven't seen one advertised, or even heard of one in years.

Dan Mitchell ==========

Brian Paul Ehni wrote:

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