My ongoing code 55 nightmare... I'm about ready to give up...

N scale
After so much anticipation and excitment, as well as hours upon hours
of work, I'm ready to throw in the towel. With about $1000 of Atlas
code 55 flex track and switches on my workbench and half of it now
glued to my layout, I threw down my freight cars and locked up the
room. It started with about 20 pieces of flew track going to waste
getting the hang of code 55. Sanding off glue and constantly
relaying track to curve better. Straights were also extremely hard
to get perfect. The straw that broke the camels back was after about
20 hours of laying track (soldering all pieces) I put my Kato
Smoothside Cars on for a run. Clickity, clickity, clickty... they
sounded horrible!!! Yes, I did test them on this track beforehand.
I took a deep breath, "The Micro-Trains Low-Profile wheels will surely
be o.k.". After stringing five together.... Clickity, clickity,
clickty.... I about threw up. My temper almost got the best of me
wanting to tear the whole layout down in a blaze of rage. Start a new
hobby someday... Is there anything anyone can say to help me? It
makes no sense....
Frustrated beyond belief,
Kevin Miller
Reply to
Kevin Miller
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HO? Code 70 is about what code 35 would be in N, and code 83 is little larger than code 40 in N.
The handrails look better, too.
Reply to
Steve Caple
Ah grief, I'd hate to be wrong. . . I am Not an expert (lol, I have a box of n junk!).
Perhaps if you solder your pieces on the joins to fill that gap that clicks, eh? Fit it snug, then hit it right on the top, right on the joint. Then sand each join to smoothe. Just try it on one section, if it doesn't work, no real loss. Well, here's to big loops!
Reply to
<rpm5090
I understood the clickty is the wheels bumping on the ties, not the joints. Kind of like the old HO Rivarossi cookie cutter wheels on code 83 track.
Reply to
SleuthRaptorman
Kevin, since you mention Micro-Trains wheels I assume this is N scale issue.
There must be soemthing wrong whith your trackwork. Micro-Trains specifically started including lo-profile wheelsets in all their cars because the old hi flange wheels weren't compatible with Atlas code 55. So, we know that MT lo-profile wheels have to work. That was a big issue couple of years ago.
If they don't then the track is defective or you are doing something wrong. Are you 100% sure those are lo-profile wheels ?
Do some troubleshooting: take a lo-profile equiped car, remove one of its trucks and place it on the track. Push it and try to see if the clicking occurs on every tie or just on the joints or some other spots.
Also check if possibly the track gauge somehow became too wide and the wheel thread is not rolling on top of the railhead.
Peteski
Reply to
Peter W.
My temper almost got the best of me
Kevin, Meaning no disrespect. I think you said it best yourself. Start a new hobby someday....
Reply to
Justa Guy
Relax, Kevin! I think Peteski may be onto something- did you overheat sections of the flextrack soldering joints? Maybe you've pushed certain areas out of gauge so the wheels can drop onto the ties and make noise? I absolutely destroyed the first piece of track I tried to solder with a little 25 watt iron- took so long to get the rail up to temp the "spike heads" melted right off. And when setting up, until you're sure where you want the track I use thumbtacks to hold it down. I'm in TT scale, so most will fit between well enough to test run equipment, N scale you might have to cut or grind the sides down to fit between the rails. Al
Reply to
Al Reibel
I have never worked in N, but this tip is pretty much universal. Clip aligator clips on the rail on both sides of the area you are soldering. They will sink away the heat and save your adjacent ties. This is an old electronics trick for saving solid state devices from heat damage when soldering. Once you become skilled at soldering a higher watage iron is safer since you do not spend as much time trying to heat the rail, but it takes pratice and you must be fast.
Reply to
Jason

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