Paint mix to simulate steel

HOw about mixing on a 'pallete'? Just put a big blob of the color closest (the one youthink you will use most of). Then a small blob ot the other or others, and mix small amounts into the big blob until you get the color you want.

I use a small piece of glass, that way I can scrape the paint off after it dries.

One of the model paint companies (Testors??) make two paints (two part application) used to simulate SS and other types of metal. The SS has a black coat over sprayed with metallic. It is reported to be the best available to simulate SS passenger cars. This was reported by Andy S. in a MR article and has been talked about on various groups. As you didn't ask about SS I think the process is used for other types of metal simulation!

There are some metal foils which can be applied to models: see MicroMark.com. I've not used them, but they may work. I suspect that they are difficult to apply without wrinkles. I suspect that when correctly applied, they are better than anything except for vacuum plating for simulating metal car sidings like stainless steel.

Ed.

in article snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com, Jon Miller at snipped-for-privacy@inow.com wrote on 10/3/03 9:03 AM:

Have you checked the Testor's enamels "Steel", etc.? They do make varius shades of metal colors.....

I am looking to simulate basic unpainted steel (such as structural shapes) and new galvanized steel, not stainless steel. Thank you.

I am trying to avoid solvent-based paints...

But which of those Testors colors have you used to simulate new steel, both plain and galvanized?

That is still a "wet" color, and the results can vary after airbrushing and drying. So I'm looking for a starting pont for my test. What paint mixes do you use to simulate new steel, both plain and galvanized?

The steel I have used (Testor's enamel) produces a dark steel color -- I was using it to simulate the darker section of wings on airliners when I used to do a lot of them. Nowadays most of the airlines have resorted to painting the entire wing very light grey.

Thanks, I didn't realize there was a Testors Model Master Enamel simply called "steel!" D'oh!

You might look at this site, just for your own information.

Mark...it is'nt in the "Model Master" line -- it's in their regular ol' little square bottles!

Thanks again. I haven't used Testors paint since my days of building model car kits as a teenager -- what's the differences between their regular paint and their Model Master line?

Testors - Steel (#1180)

I've used Testor's "steel" enamel quite a bit, if necessary "rust" it out with ceramcoat "red iron oxide", "brown iron oxide" and "barn red"

Don

-- snipped-for-privacy@prodigy.net

I don't find any difference, when I use them. Basically, it's a choice of color for me.

I see below with your listings of various stock numbers, that the Model Master line does indeed have "Steel".

The "Steel" I use is the #1180, usually thin it 50-50 with lacquer thinner. Yes, lacquer thinner. And airbrushing it onto bare plastic airlienr models has NEVER been a problem.`

There IS some difference in the "regualr" square bottle Testors and the "Model Master" line but I'm not sure what it is.

I DO notice a major difference in drying times when brushed on. Most of the "regular" line are dry to the touch in a few minutes, Model Master may be an hour or so.

Don

That, I have NOT noticed, as I usually thin the stuff 50-50 with lacquer thinner for airbrushing.