? re: athearn genesis 2-8-2 mikado

Hi, I had to disassemble my Athearn genesis 2-8-2 mike in order to repair a wire that broke inside of the locomotive. Got that fixed with no problems, but now I'm having problems properly "reassemblying" it. Right now, the boiler "floats" in the front, i.e. I can wiggle it up and down a lot (maybe 1/4" or more...)

Does anyone know what holds down the front boiler to the rest of the locomotive? I thought it was the screw that goes from under the loco up towards the smokestack, but either that isn't it or I don't have it aligned or something.

Thanks in advance! Scott

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Sounds like the clips inside the boiler haven't latched correctly. The screw up through the steam chest can be dispensed with, see below. Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and smoke box, remove the steps and running board from the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY squeeze the running boards near the motion bracket (To release another set of clips inside the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off what I think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.



You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any of my grades.

Cheers Roger T.

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Roger T.

The long screw up from above the leading bogie should be the thing that holds the boiler assembly to the frame. It could be that you have not aligned this screw with its mating socket within the boiler, or (partial disaster), the female screw thread in this socket has stripped. To check this, dis-assemble the loco, remove the long screw from the frame section and see if the long screw still screws into the socket in the boiler. If it does, then just miss-alignment is the cause of your problem. If the thread is stripped, perhaps a very thin sliver of wood inserted into the female thread will give you sufficent bite for the long screw. Regards, Bill.


"Scott" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Reply to
William Pearce

Roger T. spake thus:

[instructions snipped]

These instructions are now printed out and saved in the plastic bag on top of my loco in its box, against the time I need to take it apart.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

Now that the utterly challenging process of popping the Athearn Mike's boiler has come up again, let me add my two dollars worth. (Excellent disassembly instructions in this thread BTW!)

Clip both wires off of their connectors, strip the wires about 1/4 inch and wrap them under the screw heads directly with small washers. I used the connectors as washers. This is a mandatory fix because those connector climps are way too flimsy. If you don't do this, the wires will keep breaking.


Scott wrote:

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