Walthers Catalog - assistance

For styrene kits I use just plain MEK and a very small brush. MEK is available at most hardware or paint stores (from pints to gallons). If you check the contents of most plastic glues they are MEK and some type of thickener.

I suggest you give tenax-7r a try. it is a very volatile (evaporates quuickly), and needs to be applied with a brush. one joins the two parts physically, and brushes a tiny amount of the liquid into the seam. the liquid seeps into the crack via capillary action. it works very quickly.

I use Testor's Model Master Liquid Cement. It comes in a squarist bottle with a small needle like applicator. It works well for me and does not form the glue threads. To minimize glue threads if you must use the tube glue, place a small amount on a sheet of paper and apply glue with a toothpick. Rotate the toothpick to wrap any thread around it before taking it away from the model.

I've also used Tenex and it works, though I find that it does not adhere as well for me and it evaporates almost immediately. Apply it quickly. YMMV, and other folks swear by (and not at) the stuff.

I use two different sprue cutters: the Xuran ones are sizzor like and I prefer them for not so delicate parts; I also use the despruing tweezer from Micromark.com. I buy almost all my tools from micromark.com. Check their web site or get a catalog to see LOTS of modeling tools. I don't work for them or have any other interest other than being a satisfied customer.

Ed.

in article snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com, larry l. at snipped-for-privacy@tranquility.net wrote on 10/4/03 10:09 AM:

snip

Handy hint for the various glues, glue the bottle to a old saucer. Makes it much harder to tip the bottle over and spill all over eveything. Hot glue works for this as it is not attacked by the glue in the bottle.

-Hudson

I use the Testor's liquid in the black plastic bottle: it does not spill if tipped over: the needle acts as a stopper.

Ed.

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.skypoint.com, Hudson Leighton at snipped-for-privacy@skypoint.com wrote on 10/4/03 12:39 PM:

'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' I'll have to second that. IMO this is a good, all around genric and EZ to use glue for the newbie or occassional modeler, for sure. Of course, a lot of the "old timers" around here seem to like it, too, including me.

'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' Price must be no object to you. From the other side of the coin, I only order from them when I can't find the item I really want anywhere else. I am constantly amazed by their high prices, finding many items elsewhere for considerably less, and I have written and told them so. Unfortunately (for them) they chose not to respond to my letter, so Micro-Mark is automatically way down on my list of suppliers I personally would do business with if given the choice.

Paul - "The CB&Q Guy" (Happily Modeling 1969)

I try to buy from them when they have sales on things I need. Their catalog is so chocked full of tools and they have provided me with good service when stuff has arrived defective (the micro table saw made a weird noise: they took it back and 1 day fedex'd its replacement and paid for shipping both ways). Anyway as usual, check your local hobby store FIRST for items you seein catalogs which you need. It may be cheaper there and there is no shipping, but maybe sales tax.

I find the MircoMark prices no worse than the Walther's shop on similar items.

Ed.

in article snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com, Paul K - The CB&Q Guy at snipped-for-privacy@insightbb.com wrote on 10/5/03 9:56 AM:

Series" [first

we plan

recommendation]

make the

selection?]

The Xuron sprue cutter works fine. The Micro-Mark catalog lists a few different ones with the blades set at different angles, which can come in handy sometimes. I have one made by the 'Grobet File Co. of America' I like the grip on, and a Xuron.

I also suggest checking the Micro-Mark

for tweezers. They list a few odd-ball ones that can come in handy for decals and small parts.

I may be the 'odd-man out', but my personal preferences for glueing plastic are the Faller Expert (white bottle, blue print) and Super Expert (orange bottle, black print) glues. They are both liquid glues with metal 'needle point' applicators built into the cap. The main difference is in the working time each gives you.

The 'Expert' glue gives you about 30 - 45 seconds to shift things around if necessary after it's applied. With the 'Super Expert' it's best to hold the parts together and let capillary action feed it into the joint as you apply it. Because, if you're lucky, on a good day you might get 5 seconds tops to shift anything once the 'Super Expert' is applied.

Len Head Rust Scraper KL&B Eastern Lines RR Museum

Just wondering why you would expect a reply? What would you have them tell you? Yes, you are correct that you can find things elsewhere if you are willing to spend how much time looking. But then that's called shopping. Some folks figure it's not worth the extra effort for small gains in pricing.

Dave

Well, er, uh, . . .

Well, er, uh, they are higher then the same item in my local hobby shop. If The Train Shop has the item, I'll buy from them. But, especially with tools, they frequently don't, so then I go online.

Ed.

in article snipped-for-privacy@netnews.comcast.net, Steve Caple at snipped-for-privacy@nevermindspring.com wrote on 10/6/03 9:27 AM:

'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' Well, uh, good business practice and common courtesy come immediately to mind.

Paul - "The CB&Q Guy"