Airbrushes

On 31/01/2006 22:15, Matt Ots said,

To put it simply, a single action turns the air on or off, whilst allowing you to adjust the paint flow, whilst a dual action allows to you to adjust both the paint flow and the air flow with the same lever, simultaneously. Push down more for more paint, pull back more for more air.

I must admit that I most often use my dual-action airbrush as a single action - the air is either on or off!

Reply to
Paul Boyd
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LOL. That's why I asked the question. Yes USA. We use 115v/60Hz and only one leg is hot. The other one is neutral and there is additionally an earth ground as well since the line into the building is 220 coming in on two legs, each leg is divided in the breaker box such that each output side runs on alternate phases Some receptacles are wired with a line from both sides of the breaker box plus a neutral line which acts a return to the box. These are the ones we use for 230v stuff. I buy exclusively 230v electric tools when I can get them. When I need to have something running on 115, I can still use a 230v receptacle. I just have to wire the device's plug a bit differently so that it can only receive current from one leg. No problem, because a regular 115v receptacle uses a completely different plug. you can't use the tool in anything but a 230v recertacle unless you install a different plug. That way I can wire the entire workshop for

230v and still use any tool I wish without regard to its required voltage. Not unsafe at all. Tool still has a hot, a neutral and a ground, but can only see 115 volts. receptacles are keyed such that they cannot be plugged in incorrectly. Because the wiring is in the plug, the 115v tool can be plugged into any 230v receptacle, and it will still operate properly.

A USA 230v receptacle looks like this: ground pin 0 hot blade 115v \ / hot blade 115v neutral blade |

A 115v receptacle looks like this

ground pin 0 hot blade 115 | ] neutral blade

Reply to
66class

wrote

My abiding memory of domestic appliances in the US was how "lame" they were compared to their UK counterparts.

In the UK we had a Vax (Wet vacuum cleaner). On arrival in DC I bought a Dirt Devil which was absolutely identical in every respect apart from the

115v motor.

I spent the next 3 years bemoaning that I hadn't done exactly what the snip above describes, bringing my UK appliances with me. (and I should have known because in my youth I qualified as a journeyman electrician in the state of Maine)

Elliott

Reply to
Elliott Cowton

I am the proud owner of a nuclear powered (pwr of course) air compressor. Most air driven things are cheap and easily obtained in France but modelling is mostly aircraft and cars even so the air brushes which I have seen in the shops in Dijon are either poor looking or very expensive. I seem to remember an English unit which was self contained - probably a diaphragm unit.

In the UK 110v is the standard for Industrial portable tools and require thumping great transformers to be lugged around as most sites have only 230 or 415v tri phase.

Reply to
peter abraham

On 31/01/2006 22:38, I said,

Whilst doing a spot of airbrushing just now, something was niggling in the back of my mind. That't it! It is of course t'other way around - push down for air, pull back for paint. I'm amazed no-one picked me up on this!

Now both the Black Hawthorn and the Lanky battery electric on my website have their basic coat of LNER Touring Stock Green on - this is for a freelance layout, I hasten to add!

Reply to
Paul Boyd

I had noticed, but had forgotten to reply :-)

BTW, I think I am starting to favour the single action brushes like the Badger 200G for some jobs, with the paint flow adjusted by the nut at the back of the body. For other things, I still like my twin action Badger 150. And I'm still not very good at airbrushing.

I've not taken my battery loco out of the box yet, been too busy with other stuff. Was the Gibson buffer conversion a simple drilling operation, or does it need a little explanation ?

And I must get my head round springing systems for High Level four wheeled locos. Everytime I almost have it, I forget how it all goes together. So far mine have been compensated, though I have made my own hornblocks and guides.

- Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Cliffe

On 05/02/2006 18:46, Nigel Cliffe said,

As it's you, I'll believe you :-)

I do like my Badger 150. I mainly use the dual action facility for getting small amounts of paint into awkward corners - my old single action airbrush just couldn't do that without getting too much paint everywhere else. (Maybe it was just me!)

Not that simple, whitemetal being what it is! After chopping the heads off, I used a pillar drill to gradually open up the bore a little at a time until I was scared of breaking through or seizing up, drilling down a short way, then backing out repeatedly. Then I used a twist burr in the drill and moved the work around just shaving off a little at a time until the bore was visibly concentric to the casting body. The buffer stock was held in a mini-vice throughout all this. Just watch the drilling depths, and all should be well. Incidentally, I had to shorten the chassis frames to accomodate the tail end of the buffer, but on this model this is invisible due to being hidden behind the footsteps.

If you do, please spread the word! I managed on the Black Hawthorn, but the motor bogie type chassis look a bit awkward to spring.

Indidentally, your man with the decals sent me a large document to peruse, so thanks for putting me in touch.

Reply to
Paul Boyd

Ah, OK. One of those "hmmm should work if really careful" jobs.

Looking at the Gibson bases, I wonder if its as much work to coordinate drill the bases to accept some rod to represent the bolt detail present on the whitemetal ones ? Probably comes down to whether one has a dividing head attached to a precision drilling setup ? I lack the dividing head, though know a man who has one.

I had thought of springing both the Armstrong Diesel, and the battery electric. But both have very different chassis designs to the Coronation and the Black Hawthorn, so I've gone for simple beams again.

When you've done with that, I'm sure he'll answer further questions.

- Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Cliffe

Nigel Cliffe said the following on 05/02/2006 22:34:

That's it! Carefully hidden from view on my website is one buffer where I wasn't really careful... The damage doesn't really show too much though anyway.

That did cross my mind, but I was pretty sure I would mess it up! I think you're right about needing a dividing head, and possibly a centre drill as well. I don't have a dividing head either...

Reply to
Paul Boyd

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