baseboards

Ah I see built in depressions in the scenery at 18 x 24 centres

You might do better using plywood for the trackbed, and do away with the insulation board completely, keeping to the openframe method.

Ian J.

N-Trak folks over here in the US have been doing similar for years. Forget the plywood, just use the insulation (ASSUMING you can get it in 1" or better thicknesses) Give me a bit and I'll put together some drawings - been meaning to do it for a while now.

You don't need frame members placed that close - 2x4 foot modules are typically done without any intermediate supports.

Ian J. wrote:-

Doesn't that amplify noise?

(kim)

Here we go:

Select "Links", "Tips & Tricks", then "Lightweight Foam Topped N-Track Modules".

Okay, I'll make it 12 inch centres but any thoughts on using mdf or sundeala

Thanks

Smokeyone

Hmm... post seems to have gotten lost somewhere, so I'll try again:

Here's some sketches of how I've been doing lightweight modules.

Select "Links", "Tips & Tricks", then scroll down to "Lightweight Foam Topped Modules"

I've built 6 like this over the past two years. Even a 6 foot BendTrack module I can carry easily with one hand. This is a strong, rigid, and very lightweight way to build! I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed glued directly to the foam, and (on the BendTrack modules) Atlas code 55 flextrack.

This is plenty rigid to support HO models as well - with O you might want to use 2 inch foam.

MDF is heavy (not much of a problem if the baseboard isn't moved after construction) and requires precautions when cutting it (do it outside and use a mask).

Mark Thornton

In message , Smokeyone writes

Don't.

Wouldn't normally dare to dispute with you on a technical matter but I have to say that I've used mdf extensively on my (indoor) layout, doesn't sag, very strong (I actually walked on the boards when they were first laid), very easy to work with, not to expensive and reusable.

Thanks for that Joe - Looks like just what I need for a planned fold-down layout (4' x 2' shunting layout), the section on chain link fencing was also interesting, thanks for both

Mike

Model Railroader has had at least two "project railroad" series which use the method you propose. However, the supports are at about 12" centres, not 18" to 24", using 2" thick insulation board. Also, the trackbed was made from cork strip or from 1" insulation board.

The scenery was built up from insulation board scraps, with a plaster + gauze or plaster + paper skin applied, painted a ground / rock colour, then additional scenic materials applied over that.

The one thing I strongly advise against is fastening the track directly onto a plywood or MDF base. The stuff is too hard. Always use some sort of ballast former, glue that to the baseboard or roadbed. Pin the track in place temporarily, until you have added ballast, then remove the pins

- the ballast will hold the track in place.

As for going round the corners -- begin by making templates using boxboard and a meter stick. Fasten a marker of soft pencil at end. Drill a number of holes to take a nail at the other, so that you can outline the width of the roadbed (2" or 5cm) by moving the nail as needed for different curve radii. Draw the templates, label each with its radius, cut them out, and use them to mark the plywood or MDF. Then cut out the roadbed pieces with a jigsaw. (Or ask a handy friend to do it for you.)

HTH&GL

I will send you a copy of my lightweight, easy to build baseboard system.

Smokey>

...

Thanks very much for the info, I could use 2 inch or even 3 inch insulation board and it would still be very light. I mention 3 inch because it occured to me that you could rough the edges where exposed and make that into part of the scenary, rocks etc. Just to check again please, you use woodland foam track ballast, do you glue this down followed by glueing the track to the foam. If sending me plans please use snipped-for-privacy@fastmail.fm deleting mail from smokeyone.

Thanks again Smokeyone