Fitting Peco Point motors

Hi guyds Having lurked for a while since recommencing the hobby I now need some help
In the eighties i modelled n gauge and fitted peco motors from
underneath by making a jig and screwing them on via a plate. I thought this time it must be easier to fit direct under the peco point and make the large hole to fit them. Boy how wrong was !
I am using the double microswitch to switch polarity and light leds on a panel
I clip the motor and switch mechanism together and than clip the motor to the point and am having enormous problems with the motors either refusing to budge the point arm - whilst I can hear it firing - or only switching in one direction and refusing to switch back. I fiddled around with on for hours until i got it.
But i don't know what i did to make it work . Any suggestions - thanks from a very frustrated newbie
zep75
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"kj" wrote

You almost certainly need more 'ooomph', and suggest fitting a capacitor discharge unit (Gaugemaster make a suitable example) into your circuit.
I've never liked the idea of fitting the pointwork directly to the underside of the point, and fit mine to the underside of the board operating the points through a longer activating rod. For this reason I tend to use Seep motors which
a) have a mounting plate built into the motor b) have a built-in activating switch and c) incorporate a longer activating rod
whilst others prefer slow activating switch machines.
John.
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I have also used Seep motors on my n gauge layout but the OP wants double micro switches which, I have realised since fitting my Seeps, is something I could do with on some of mine.
--
Keith Willcocks
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<snip>
Why not just use a multi contact relay, and just use the micro-switch activate the relay?
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Thanks, that is a new one on me and sounds like a good way to do it.. Can you point me towards a site for something of that sort?
--
Keith Willcocks
(If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!)
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<snip>
In which way, how to use them or were to get them?
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Sorry, didn't make that clear. I can see how they would work but cannot seem to find anything resembling them (Google failed, probably due to me search phrases). So I am really seeking a point of supply.
--
Keith Willcocks
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<snip>
[ relay suppliers ]

Maplins do some, in the components section, also if you just want mail order Squires have a good selection - contact details from http://www.squirestools.com/
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many thanks, I will investigate now that I know where to look.
--
Keith Willcocks
(If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!)
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I would echo John's advice. I've never had a problem mounting direct to the points, but don't like it due to the large hole nedded in the baseboard.
What are you using to power the point motors?
MBQ
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You need plenty of oomph to throw the motors. Mine are on mounting plates with switches, extended pin through a small hole in the baseboard. Get a CPU, my first one was powered by 16v ac, but this was not enough when throwing several points to routeset a fiddle yard. My current set up is a CPU fed with 24v ac. Works a treat.

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<snip>

I think you might mean a *CDU*!
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I did. Cheap keyboards!

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"MudMuppet" wrote

LOL - cheap fingers more likely - the D & P are nowhere near each other on my 'qwerty' keyboard. ;-)
John.
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Rather than a CDU, or even a CPU, perhaps what the poster really needs a better BIOS?!....
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John Turner wrote:

Dismantle the keyboard (probably 6 screws) and move the keys to more suitable positions! ;-)
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Easier to change the key caps, think D but P.
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Sounds to me like there is a problem with the nut behind the keyboard ;o)
--
Keith Willcocks
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Never really pays to try and help someone! I wonder if the OP has found a solution to his point motor problem?
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<snip>
Just geos to prove that one should alawsy duolbe cechk waht you hvae wrttiin bfeore perssing 'Send'!
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