Thanks, I guessed it was something like that. After a couple of hours of head scratching and cursing, I have managed to get it fitted
After dismantling the motor I find that the screw that retains the L/H brush retaining clip is earthed to the motor chassis, whilst the screw retaining the R/H retaining clip isn't (cunning devils these Hornby folks).
Luckily I found a shorter screw in my junk box that fitted the hole for the L/H clip, thus retaining the clip without earthing it - so far so good.
Next I found another screw to fit one of the holes in the top of the bogie chassis, screwed this in and soldered a wire to it to act as the bogie pick-up.
And then, after connecting and soldering all the other wires as necessary, I programmed it and got it working.
What a disappointment! This loco was a very smooth runner under DC especially at low speed. Now it's crap! Don't know what's gone wrong!
It's "plug and socket" now on for me!
BTW - Soldering Iron and plastic, not a good match!
Study the instructions for the CVs (Control Variables). One of these matches the loco's speed range to usable voltage. IIRC, Hornby motors need quite a hefty voltage to start. Unless the decoder is programmed to take this into account, only a small part of control knob range will be usable. Your decoder may also have a "silnet" setting, ie, one that reduces the buzz.
Doh! in my impatience to get the loco running I overlooked a basic maintenance item - dirty wheels! It runs a lot better now.
I am currently using a basic lenz LE1000A decoder. According to the instructions for this, I can adjust the start voltage (0-31), acceleration and deceleration (1-255). Any suggestions for the best settings for a Hornby class 47?
Yes, fit a Lenz Gold or Silver - Ringfield motors benefit from control using a feedback decoder. In fact these days I use nothing other than these two, although I did have to resort to using a Lenz Mini Gold in a Bachmann 'Crab'
First set all of them to zero. Then try out the loco and see how far you have to turn up the throttle before it moves, if for example you have to turn it to 25% then try setting your start voltage to 7, try again, when you get it right it should just start to move on position 2 of the throttle.
The accel and decel just slow down the reaction to the throttle to avoid jerks, just try a few lowish numbers to get the feel of it then dfecide what you want. Keith
Eric, Yep, clean wheels does make a huge difference, you're not the first and won't be the last (Also speaking from experience myself!!!) Also check the brushes on this model, but don't loose the springs.
I would use the advice from other posts as to how to set up, as I have not even got a Hornby 47, and think the closest mechanism I have is in the back of the 9F. If you can use a computer, I would suggest it is more that worth the money of investing in Sprog II by Andrew Crosland. It's an excellent piece of kit that plugs into a USB port and connects to your track and along with the free download programme Decoder Pro, allows you not only to number your locos (i.e. CV 1 or 17\18) but set up motors for better running and also speed curves and braking and the like all on a page that is more or less idiot proof!
and see what you think?
I'll get around to putting something on the website soon about it all, but until then, have a look at the Oakamoor layout which is DCC at the web address below.