Hornby DCC wiring problem

Hello all,
I have just recently brought a hornby ddc controller R8213 and two chips R8249 and was hoping to but them into my old hornby trains. To be honest I thought this would be quite simple to as I was previous using a zero 1 controller which needed the trains chipped with the zero 1 chip which I could do no problems.
However now I see that the new chip is somewhat different to the old chip and I have tried to figure out the wiring but obviously not right as it does not work. What I have done is to put the left and right motor leads on each side of the motet and the wheel leads on each side of the wheels trying to keep left and right the same. But I’m not sure about the common lead as to where this should go?? Instead all it does is sit on the track and produce a high pitch whine for a minute or so then causes the display on the controller to flash and then disappear if that makes any sense!!!
So the question is has anybody done this before and does anybody know how to manually wire one of these chips into an old train. Maybe there is a wiring diagram out there? Probably talking 1970,80 trains here.
Or have I made a mistake thinking this could be done and it can’t so now need to by proper DCC trains?
Thanks in advance

Hi Ray,
Check out this page, it should help.
http://www.hornby.com/digital/dcc-installation-guide,57,HAR.html
Regards,
IC125
wrote:
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Thats looks just the ticket. I will have a good read and see if i can get it working.
many thanks

responding to http://www.polytechforum.com/uk-trains/hornby-dcc-wiring-problem-53671-.htm , Totnado wrote: > raypcook wrote: > > Thats looks just the ticket. I will have a good read and see if i can > get it working. > > many thanks >

On 15/10/2012 12:18 PM, Totnado wrote:
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You placed your reply below the sig separator. I almost missed it, as my newsreader displays it if faded grey type.

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Yes, you're quite correct ... but ... this NG is on its last legs, is the best way to encourage new folks to stay and help restore it to the vibrant community it once was the best way to point syntax errors out without even a "hello"?
<ducks for cover>
<L&Y rules!>
:-)

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FFS!
"Yes, you're quite correct ... but ... this NG is on its last legs, is it the best way to encourage new folks to stay and help restore it to the vibrant community it once by pointing out syntax errors out without even ..."
I wouldn't mind but I'm not even drunk!

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y
t
n a
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Yes when(1) they are replying to years old posts and (2) were told about the errant sig separator the day before and blatantly did it again.
MBQ

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Apparently it works OK in some newsreaders but not Thunderbird or Xnews.
I pointed it out the first time, and there was quite a discussion. I guess Wolf didn't see that thread.
You should be able to customise how a "sig" displays; I use a different font from the main message.

On Oct 15, 5:18 pm, Totnado
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blem-5367...,
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I hope he's sorted it out in the 3-1/2 years since the post you just replied to.
You're new to Usenet aren't you :-)
MBQ

Ray wrote: [...]
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Hornby's guides work only with locos that are "DCC ready", ie, have an 8-pin interface fitted for the decoder to plug into. Your loco is obviously not one of those...
However, people have successfully fitted decoders to all kinds of engines. The key requirement is that the wires are correctly attached to the decoder. NMRA has a recommended practice (which it will propose as a standard) for colour coding the wires to make that task simple. See below.
You're lucky that you haven't burned out your decoders, just tripped their internal overload protection. At least, that's what the described symptoms indicate -- I hope for your wallet's sake I'm right!
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AFAIK, Hornby uses the NMRA standard colour code for the wiring. You'll find it at:
http://www.nmra.org/standards/DCC/standards_rps/RP-9.1.1%202008.01.pdf
You may also have to cut away some bits of chassis or loco body (internally) to make room for the decoder. Finally, do a thorough mechanical tune-up. DCC cannot compensate for mechanical problems.
Have fun.
-- Wolf Kirchmeir

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To be fair to Hornby, their website has a whole range of instructions for installing DCC chips into their locos, including ones without the 8 pin interface. For example, I chipped Thomas earlier this week and he certainly didn't have an 8 pin socket, although he was easy enough to do (I think Hornby must have redesigned many of their older locos at some stage as I have yet to have a live chassis yet, whereas others with the same model but slightly older do). On the other hand I'm not looking forward to doing my split chassis Ivatt tank or old style Royal Scot...
The other person may find useful Phil Grainger's article in Model Rail from I think April 2002 (you may need to look up the online index at www.ukmodelshops.co.uk if I'm wrong with the edition) where he chips a live chassis Thomas.

Melbournian wrote:
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Yes, I missed that, my bad.
[...]

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DCC chips (apart from one old ZTC example) require the motor to be fully isolated from the pickups. In Zero-1 I believe there was still one common connection from one motor brush to the wheels on one side? So, a loco that was chipped for Zero-1 may still require some work for DCC.
Hornby ringfield motors often (always?) have a connection from one brush to the chassis which needs isolating.
The common (blue) wire is only used for lighting and similar "functions".
MBQ

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:
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You're best to do a continuity check to prove that the motor is isolated from the pickups before putting a loco on the track. Some ringfield motors have a jumper lead to the chassis and some don't.
Chris